Stuck In Gear. Transmission Problem?

Yesterday, all of sudden it was physically hard to shift up and down, using normal force of left toe.

I thought maybe the new oil change from 15w40 Rotella T6 to 20w50 Valvoline 4T. All Non-Synthetics, in the last 100 miles or so.

But, it gets worse and now it is completely stuck in-gear, 3rd gear it is.

I just drain the oil, no weird debris or metal shaving presence. Nice and clean.
Put a new oil 15w40 Shell Rotella & filter in. Still no change.

It still has its "springy feedback" , about 1 inch when you fiddle the shifter, up or down, with your left toe.

But it would not go any further up(shift) or down(shift), even with my hand grabbing it upward and downward. None!

The bike has been very good functionally. Always starts on first attempt, running good on normal freeway speed 60 to 70 mph and surface streets as well.

I hope this is not as bad as it sounds.

Looking forward to your expertise and advise.

Thanks!

 

Do a search for primary chain guide... A ton of good reading that describes your issue, here if one of many postings that I quickly found with a search.......

This particular posting is from Chacal (Len) the parts guy, upper right hand corner (xj4ever)

INTERNAL SHIFTER MECHANISM PARTS:

Inside your shifter case side cover are a variety of levers and linkages that translate the motion of the your shifter foot pedal into movements that operate the SHIFTER DRUM, which in turn operates the SHIFTER FORKS which then engage or disengage the various TRANSMISSION DRIVE GEARS. Worn or damaged RETURN SPRINGS can prevent the shifter from operating properly, and are the first thing to check if your bike will not go into gear, is "stuck" in a particular gear, or if you cannot "find neutral".

Of course, there may other issues which could cause the same problems, particularly the dreaded "disintegrating primary chain guide" issue, but it's always best to determine whether a simple problem exists first..........

Pictures of the inside of the shifter assembly can be seen at:

http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/20246

and

http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/28233


A good write-up on the typical problems and issues involved with these parts can be accessed at:

http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/19227

http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/48591

However, please note that the exploded diagram attachment on the 19227 page is "typical" for most XJ-series bikes, the actual mechanisms will differ slightly between different models (the diagram shown in the 3rd post is correct for the XJ650 - XJ900 models; most other models use a variation on the same theme).

NOTE: if this describes your situation:

Couldn't get her out of (whichever gear you were in when the problem occurred).

This situation can be caused wither by a broken TENSION SPRING (the small linear-acting spring) or by the TORSION SPRING (the one with one straight arm and one "hooked" arm). Both of these springs are designed to keep the pawl arm properly engaged with the shifter drum "star wheel" segment. Note there is also a long SCREW which retains this star wheel to the shifter drum; if that screw is loose, it will allow the star wheel to rock back and forth or not even engage with the drum, also resulting in the same type of issue.

On early XJ650 engines and XJ750 Seca engines, the original torsion spring used was somewhat weak, and was replaced by an upgraded spring on later model engines, which also required a slightly different spring collar (sleeve) to be fitted.


NOTE: if this describes your situation:

"Today, after a downshift, the shift pedal would not pop back up automatically."

This problem tends to be caused by a broken TORSION SPRING (the one with straight arms on both ends of the spring) which is supposed to center the selector shaft segment. The earlier 1980-81 XJ650 and XJ750 Seca models were especially susceptible to this problem, and an upgraded, thicker spring (which required a thinner spacer collar underneath) was introduced to the 1982-later models.

 

Look here fellas. ^^^We got ourselces a new wizard ^^^ HURRAY!!

Excellent diagnosis Luis.

 

Thanks Luis!

Which one is for XJ550?

I would like to get the correct insight before i start taking it apart.

 

The shifting mechanism is basically the same for all of the XJ models. The 55o has a true primary chain with a hydraulic tensioner in addition to the starter chain guide (the one that tends to fail due to age). Either drain the oil, or tip the bike on to the right side and remove the shift lever and the shift cover so you can have a look.

 

I would start with pulling the shifter case cover off and looking around in there for broken springs, etc. The 550's just don't suffer very often from primary chain disintegration very often (like the 650-900 models do).

Bent shift forks or a shifter drum start segment that somehow worked its way loose could also be possible issues, unlikely but possible.

 

LOL K-moe... I think...... I don't know much about these bikes, that's why I follow a handful of yall... I'm not a slow learner.... here in the northeast it pissed down rain all day and I mean all day, so I was on and off the computer all day all the while enjoying a few adult beverages... I say this with the up most respect.....when I read what maxj550 posted, K-moe, you were the first one that popped into my head and a possible chain guide failure thought, did a quick search ... I understand it can be a number of things.... I was probably wrong with what I posted.... just thought it might be a start for them... and after reading what chacal posted, I do recall reading in this forum, that the xj550 are less prone to the failure than other models.... a new wizard, hardly, a quick learner and follower, possibly.... and as Gary H. stated... you learn something new everyday... and every time I get on here... I learn something new .... LG

 

Thanks, Chacal

Should i get the (possible) replacement parts beforehand, so this repair will goes on simultaneously without waiting for the new parts?
If so, what are they and how much?

 

You should never buy parts until you know what parts you need (if any).

 

I agree with this statement. It won't take you but a few minutes (1/2-hour or so) to pull off the shifter cover and clean up/inspect what is going on "in there". If you do not find any problems inside the shifter cavity, then more exploration is necessary, and of course your parts needs will change, too.

 

Reading on I think I might of found the right forum. I have a simular problem have a 83 xj750 mid max. Stuck in second gear. Pulled engine out started to break crankcase the drum started shifting. 2 weeks later starting from gas station I can shift 1 and neutral but won't shift second or higher. Is that posible linkage or do I have to pull engine again?

 

@Pdh: do what maxj550 was advised to do and let us know what you find.

Gary H.

 

I could see that it is simple to remove the shifter lever, front sprocket cover and the front sprocket,
but not able see the "segment" , "springs" or "star gears" apparatus as pictured for 650 and 750 above, without taking the xj550 crankcase apart.

 

That is correct.

 

Ok will look into it this weekend thanks. Can't remember pulling off that side cap for shifter is there going to be oil coming out? I just put 4 qts in couple of weeks ago when reinstalled engine back in the frame. I know middle gear gets exposed going to drive shaft (if I remember correctly)

 

The cover etc are now removed.

How to gain a visual access to the shifting mechanism without splitting the crankcase?

Would it be worth while to remove the exhaust system and the oil pan?

 

Follow the info and links Luis posted. You don't need to remove the exhaust, oil pan nor split the case unless there's a issue with the forks.

Gary H.

 

this is for Pdh... Tipping the bike on the right will allow the inspection without draining.

 

Gary H.

 

No luck so far.

FYI this is 550 and there is no visual access to the inside shifting parts (Like Shaft-Driven 650 0r 750)

Nothing to see after removing the shift lever, front sprocket & its cover, 3-screws Neutral Sensor.

Am I missing something?

Trying to make sure about unnecessary engine tear down.

 

Sorry, Maxj550. I don't know 550s too good. I guess I better buy one! PDH jumped on your thread with a different bike, and now there is mucho confusion!

 

Sorry, missed that this was a 550.
You have to pull the clutch cover and clutch to have a look at the shifting mechanisim. RCPVFR's post in this thread covers the process: http://xjbikes.com/forums/threads/xj550-transmission-problem.12233/

 

@550: I'm dumb at times. My apologies too.

Gary H.

 

I just switched my sig line to red so it stands out from the post text. THat might make it easier for people to tell what bikes we each have.

 

Sorry about jumping on thread try to start new thread

 

Is there a picture (not the factory diagram) of internal shifting-mechanism of the 550?

Need to know of which part actually looks like, stays where and does what.

Would like to remove the entire of internal clutch setup (to see through from this side) now, but still waiting on the proper clutch-tool.

Thanks.

 

Update.

Found the loose screw ( see picture) and got it replaced anf secured.

Now,

What else suppose to be here ( see the other picture) where the clutch basket / housing shaft?

It seems something is missing? Because there's extra space where another washer or retainer clip should be?