Throttle cut out and bike died

Figured I'd start another thread, I'm pretty stuck at this point.

So valves are adjusted, I bench sync'd and thoroughly cleaned my carbs. The bike ran amazing for about 150 miles then all of a sudden it would lose almost all of its power around 70mph. Now I was riding it yesterday and it did the same thing around 80 but it just cut out completely and then died. I eventually got it home but it would only start with full choke and i had to throttle to keep it running. Would run a couple miles and die again. Now I can't get it to start at all and when it does almost fire up it'll shoot out some white smoke. Greatly appreciate any help as I'm not sure where to check next.

 

bench sync'd is just a step in prep for the live running sync.

 

I'm trying to get some vaccum gauges so i can running sync them. The bench sync did help a lot though.

 

bench and running sync has almost nothing to do with problems at 70mph, look elsewhere

 

Can you confirm that the fuel levels in the float bowls is correct? Low fuel levels can cause starvation at high speeds.

 

Where are you guy's buying gas hope not econo gas bar maybe ethanol in many grades of gas is a problem ?
Just throwing that out there

 

I have not checked them, I was going to ask if it could be floats not set correctly or the float needles needing replaced? I'm not 100% sure on how to check my float levels.

 

http://www.xj4ever.com/setting fuel levels.pdf

 

Reading through how to check and set float levels, kind confusing to me but trying to figure it out. Should I try to check and set the float levels before buying new float needles? Is there a way to tell if mine need replaced?

 

If your float needles needed to be replaced you would have a crankcase full of gas already.

 

That is good to know. So its looking like the float levels are the cause of my problems. So correct me if I'm wrong but it seems I can get one float set correctly then measure it and set the others to the same?

 

Yes. That is what Ric used to do. Wet set one, get a float height measurement, then dry set the rest. I wet set them all because for some very odd reason I find wet-setting to be easier.

 

And to wet set them all you would just use the tube method on each one and adjust until its correct? Also there is no standard height for floats to be set at? I don't have float gauges so looks like I might be trying to wet set them all. Also thanks to everyone so far especially you k-moe. Would be incredibly lost without all your guys help.

 

Open your gas cap and go for a ride.

 

you can buy a metal ruler with the sliding pocket clip at any hardware or auto parts store to use to measure the dry float height.
dry float height gives you a referance point, it does not set your fuel height to the proper level. it is only when you do a wet test of fuel height that the dry height comes into play.
if your fuel height is incorrect you have a baseline on the float and when you bend the tang you will see if you realy bent the tang because the float height will change enough to measure, unlike the tang.
.so do not waste your time dry setting the float heights to the same level, only to have to reset them again after the wet set. just measure the current positions.

alsp like Polock said try opening your gas cap there is a vent in there that may be stuck.
link on gas cap rebuild
http://www.xj4ever.com/gas cap.pdf

 

If I recall correctly that was addressed in his original thread where this problem came up.


EDIT: Or not. This is why I really don't like new threads for the same bike when the topic is the same. Systems function with a great number of variables, and it gets hard to keep track of what variables have already been addressed when a new thread is made.

The original thread

 

I am going to get into it tonight after work and try to wet set the floats. Could wrong float levels also cause the bike to not want to start? (will check my gas cap vent when I can get the bike running again)

 

I'm with k-moe and XJ550H.... don't waste time on a dry set, as they said, it will only get you close, from my experience, YOU HAVE to wet set the fuel level, I figured I could dry set the floats to a nats ass and be good, well, I had to change the oil a couple of times because of gas in the crankcase.... live and learn... do exactly as the how to set fuel level pdf states and shows... (print it out)..... and you don't need a clear tube with graduated marks... a simple plastic tube will suffice, 6 or so inches long.. fuel level will rise in the tube same way it will rise in a graduated marked tube.... and I'm definitely with k-moe to wet set each one... I wet set one, measured and set the rest by measuring, well, I change the oil again... live and learn.........apparently all my floats don't quite float identically... as they said... it's just easier to wet set all of them... just my 2 cents

 

Noted. Will just wet set them all. Wish me luck.

 

when you measure if on the bike or off needs to be level. if you measure carb 1 check on carb 1 side and also check the height of 1 on number 4 this will confirm level carbs.
after you check all heights .
drain small amount of gas from each carb to simulate running motor then remeasure
it is possible to over fill carbs from an empty bowl situation
also do not lift tube up to force gas back into carbs measure height close screw and drain tube. keep a jar handy as well as a fire extingusher
third time is a charm.

 

Did it stumble and stutter like it would normally do when its time to switch to reserve, or just suddenly happen?

 

Once the throttle hit a certain point I felt it cut out, then it chugged along until I let off the throttle. Then it died.

 

Well now I'm having even more trouble, when the bike died and trying to get it home I would have to try forever to get it started and finally it'd fire up. When I had it almost home it stopped turning over when i hit the button, I figured a fuse blew or the battery died. Got it home and put it on the charger and replaced the fuses and I get nothing when I hit the button. Also it seems my headlight isn't coming on when i turn the key now.

EDIT: So I can short the starter solenoid on my bike and she will turn over. What does this mean?

 

Well, first I was going to ask what it would do if you stated around 60mph or less .....

Now, since you have electrical issues, well, I guess we look there more, too....

-Check for continuity through the fuses

-Check for continuity through the fuse clips.

-Manually lift the side stand and give a tug on the switch and see if it is stuck slightly in

-Rock your kill switch back and forth a bunch in case it's getting some corrosion in there.

Check bulbs themselves to make sure they are all still good -- if a bunch are blown (fuses, too) your regulator could be bad and is allowing raw juice to pour through the wires.... Blowing bulbs, frying tci, burning wires, etc... A bad regulator can also do the opposite-- not allow any juice through.

So, that all said, check fuses and bulbs, then try a different regulator ( and tci if need be). Then go back and stab at other things.

If still no, the we go all the way back to square one , and go one baby step at a time.