Painting

Sorry if I posted this in the wrong place. I have searched and found information on painting. This one is incredible, http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/xj-parts-catalog-section-o-emblems-stripes-decals-paint.44631/ . It is kinda confusing theres so much info there. I was looking to paint my xj700 as it came from the factory. I want to paint the frame in the low gloss black. And the tank and both fenders in the high gloss black ( not sure if the gloss comes form the paint or the clear). Putting on 3-4 coats of base and 3-4 coats of clear. And use this as the primer, BULLETPROOF EPOXY 2-STAGE PRIMER - SEALER.

Will the cans of spray paint give it that luster? I did see it mention pints, does all this come in pints too? This site is so awesome. Sorry I can seem to figure this out, and oh how do you order this paint?

 

In my experiences with painting things, a spray can, can produce and excellent finish if done correctly. You do have to consider thought the spray cans come with the activator for the paint and clear coat premixed. Some people say that it doesn't leave a great of an end product as mixing the separate base paint with its activator and the clear coat with its activator, and using a paint sprayer. IMO you can do it however you would like to and or can afford to, but the mixing paint and activator have produced the best results.

To order the paint or answer any questions you have about ordering parts etc, create a chat with xj4ever. He's the man with the goods.

 

As someone who really hates paint because it covers my beautiful metal working efforts (see my triumph )
At least 75 per cent of a quality paint job is preparation and finishing the first step is to get the metal so smooth it's a shame to paint it. There are lots of books and info on this.but sanding wet sanding finishing and polishing are the only way to a decent paint job I have spray canned and then wet sanded to a nice finish I have a 39.95 harbor freight hi/lo gun and have been happy with the results. I am lucky though I know a high school girl who can do work like this

 

member Chacal will answer any questions you have for his products click on his avatar and start a conversation with him
or go to his web page and send him an email
www.xj4ever.com his email address is on the page


thanks for the correction on name

 

It's " chacal "

 

well messed up round one on the frame got wrinkles in it, get to sand it all down and try again.

 

was it from repainting to soon or incompatable paint underneath?

 

incompatable paint i thought but they are both enamel

 

they say ratlle can clear will do that. guess I don't know but I was trying to save money and it ended up costing me time and money LOL live and learn I guess.

sure looked nice till i did that.

 

Depends on what rattle-can clear you buy. There are as many types of clear paint as there are base paints.

 

it was a rustoleum enamel clear coat.

 

How long did you leave the color to cure before shooting the clear?
Who's color did you use?
What was the temp and humidity when you did the painting?

 

was about 48 hours and low gloss black enamel. I got the garage heated to 58 and humidty would just be a guess. not high i don't think. Sorry but I have a very hard time reading that print on those cans.
didn't have my mag glass handy.

 

heres a picture of it before i sprayed the gloss. didn't think it looked to bad

 

wife hit a skunk and parked the car in the garage.

 

my bikes are parked in the garage the wife parks in the drive way. that's because when she backs in to the garage she backs into the garage

its the skunk flesh you will have to remove from under the car that will keep on smelling

 

Guess I won't be out there tonight. unless I move it back into the drive. That ought to P. her O. lol. Suppose to snow.

 

Usually a clear topcoat has to go on either within a few hours (less than 24) of the final color coat, or after the color has fully cured (a few weeks).

 

guess it's hard to say but the can says at 70 wait one hour to clear coat, at 24hrs fully dry. or clear coat at 48 hours. not sure if that makes sense. was working on it today some, and one side had basiclly no wrinkles on it, and the other side had maybe 4-5 spots. most of the spots are going to be under the tank or airbox or covered by something.

 

Humidity might have been high, or you got a can that had a bit too much solvent in it, or it didn't get mixed for long enough. No matter how the paint is applied, sometimes things go wrong.

 

I am trying to get the rear axle out so I can put the new tire on and change brakes and bearings while it's off. Well can't get the axle out of the brake plate. am I missing something looked at the pdf rear brake drums and I can't see why it won't come loose. Dang thing is becoming a pita.

 

looks like just keep at it and it'll come kinda thing.

 

I've had wrinkles happen also, sometimes I think it was too heavy going on, instead of a very distant thin coat.

 

I've been a painter for 30 yrs. I used Devoe industrial enamel semi gloss black on my frame. Thinned down with some stuff to make the bush marks flow together. A 1/2 inch wide flat artist brush and lots of patience! I sanded with 400 grit and wiped down with thinner. Then painted. Took a couple hours but it looks like sprayed. There is no quick easy way to paint and make it look great.

 

If you step away from the bike and are in bad light you will never notice the wrinkles . . . just sayin'.

 

can anyone tell me what color no. 20 is in this jpg

 

color is silver if you look in the picture on the right that is posted you will see it its a dust collar

 

is it a special silver color? mine needs a bit of a touch up.

 

opps sorry i was thinking you were asking what collar #20 is
did not think you were actualy asking color

 

think i found it in the parts catalog Satin Silver Metallic

 

Or just ride it. Dirt covers up everything.

 

I have done painting for a long time, and lately, out of sheer laziness have been using those Rustoleum Lacquer products and have had very good results. If you are not using it already, I would *highly* recommend you spray it with the Rustoleum Primer/Sealer, after any repairs are done. Sand and then if you need it, the Rustoleum Primer/ Surfacer, then your basecoat, clear, etc. Like a previous member said, it is all about the prep, there is no more important step. And +1 on reading the fine print on the can. Everything you need to know is right there!

 

I have used rustoleum rust buster enamels with great success. Start with rustoleum enamel primer 3 coats 10 minutes apart.
let it dry for a couple of days then dry sand with 600 wet dry paper. get all the dust off with a tack cloth, then 3 or 4 light coats
10 minutes apart of rustoleum rustbuster enamel. Wait 2 days then wet sand the goobers and drips with 1000 and then the
entire surface with 2000. Rag it off to dry then tack cloth and clear coat with spray max 2k high gloss again 3 coats 10 minutes apart
wait 2 days then rub with polishing compound and buff to a high shine. I live in New Mexico so no humidity problem here. just make sure
you wear a good spray paint mask. Also make sure you have prepped the surfaces properly (bare steel).