Stinkin pod filters xj750 maxim

How do you know they are oem set? I'd check them anyway.

Gary H.

 

The bike was last registered in 99 and was completely bone stock and untouched in any way so it was more of an assumption but tomorrow ill be in the garage and we shall see if they've been tampered with

 

Even if the float tangs haven't ever been messed with, they will need to be now because the replacement float needles are not the same length as the originals (unless you bought brass float needles from Chacal).

 

Alright so I cleaned out the float bowl jets today and it started great but I have a major problem and it's intense. When it starts, it still only starts with ether, now after it starts up nice and quick, it idles ok for a few seconds, then within 5 seconds it just keeps reving up right till recline and it stays there until I have to hit the kill switch!! What the deuce??

 

Vacuum leak somewhere.
Or the throttle cable is keeping the throttle plates open.

 

If it's a vacuum leak would it seriously make it rev up until recline like that? My grandmother was in my garage when it did this and I'm surprised she didn't lose her pants because I sure lost mine. It's nothing that could be inside the carburetor making it do that is it?

 

Vacuum leaks introduce extra air "inside the carbs", and extra air leans out the fuel:air mixture. Lean mixtures will cause a runaway "feedback loop" as the engine system keeps wanting to grab extra fuel, which introduces extra air, etc. etc.

I don't see any mention if the engine has ever had a running-synch performed?

 

Chacal that Is a negative on the running sync for multiple reasons
1. After the engine swap, it's never idled
2. Now that the swap is done, my carbs work partially, however it still won't start without ether. I tried to clean to float bowl jets however I don't know if I'm supposed to feed the cleaning wire into the long golden tube that stick into the float bowl, then if it's supposed to come out of some other end of a different hole or not. I tried the light trick, don't know where the light is supposed to exit from the tube, and I tried to see how much pressure would exit the tube if I sprayed carb cleaner in the tube, it proceeded to fire straight back out at me. Now that the bike starts perfect, though with ether, it idles for 5 seconds then proceeds to redline so that doesn't give me any time to use Gauges.
3. I have a bolt broken off in 1 of the 2 holes that hold the carburetor boot to the manifold and I had to use a fiberglass gasket material to make my own carb boot gaskets so I know that because there's only 1 bolt holding the boot on, it's definitely not an air tight seal but I wanted to be sure there wasn't a different explaination for the redline rpms move sorry for the long post guys thanks again

 

If only one bolt is holding an intake boot on you will always have a vacuum leak at that boot. A mixture of warm water and alum will dissolve the remainder of the broken bolt (make a "cup" out of modeling clay to hold the solution against the bolt; clean the head so the clay can stick). Then you can hold the boot woth two bolts.

Your enrichement tube (gold tube) is plugged. the carb cleaner should exit via a small hole in the throttle side of the carb throat. The passages are not straight, so running a wire thorugh won't really work (but you can run a wire up the tube to break-up any blockage in it). You can try lettign the carbs sit overnight with carb cleaner in the enrichemnt tubes, but it's very likely that the carbs need to be fully stripped and dipped in a good carb cleaner (like Berryman's).

As you are learning, shortcuts save no time.

 

Hm alright so how is it proposed that I clean out this enrichment tube if it's preventing my choke from working being that it's not straight? I heard some business about torch tip cleaners which is what I used but it feels like they bottom out wherever the bend is in the body of the carb that runs from the tube
I weld heavy armor plate welding so I was considering trying to well a bolt to the nub of the broken bolt in the intake and try to back them out that way but Good God are they in there tight I tried my torches and vice grips but the bolt melts before the head gets hot enough to loosen up sad story lol

 

I've been through the carb cleaner route about 10 times with 10 different solutions from the best stuff you can buy and some military grade concoctions and none of them are working for the enrichment tube unfortunately

 

Look at my post above for your answers. Unless you broke the rack, fully stripped the carb bodies, and dipped them in something like Berryman's Carb Dip, you haven't done all that can be done to get the internal passages clean.

 

I took this choke plunger rack apart out of curiosity and for a learning experience and was simply let down for the fact it is absolutely nothing of what I was hoping it to be lol

 

This

 

If I used something stronger than berrymans, yet safe for aluminum, could I put it in a dropper and drop a few droplets into the enrichment tube with the hopes of achieving the same outcome kmoe?

 

Wouldn't hurt to try. The goal is to get the blockage dissolved.

The enrichment plungers should have come out the first time that you cleaned the carbs (this comment is intended as a warning to others, not a rebuke. What is done is done and now you know).

 

It's a rather large hole that the tip of the enrichment plunger seats into I'm curious if I look into the enrichment plunger hole, there is a small hole at the bottom of the well that leads out into the front of the butterfly so I'm connecting that with the video you sent me a while back but I don't get the the enrichment tube gets fuel to the plunger hole unless there's smaller holes somewhere also attached that you just can't see

 

For future reference to other viewers, my bike would not start without the pod filters on but I do have leaks at the manifold to carburetor boot joint do to broken studs

 

The enrichment plunger opens an air passage that allows fuel to be sucked up through the enrichment circuit. Fuel never touches the plunger, but it does pass through the hole that you see from above. There is a drilled passage that connects the hole in the carb throat to the brass enrichment tube. That passage is blanked off after having been drilled.

Keep in mind that video just illustrates the principles of operation. It does not show you the layout of the passages in your carbs.

This PDF does though. The enrichment circuit for the Hitachi carb you have is not shown, but it is similar to the Mikiuni that is shown.

 

To the OP. I run pods. I live in South Florida so your results may vary. I used the pod calculator on the forum here to figure out what size jets I needed. PO cut the mufflers off at the back of the collector (that's what it's called, right?) and have zero issues. Then again, I wouldn't know a finely tuned motorcycle from a badly tuned one. All I know is it screams when I roll the throttle and have had zero issues. The bike starts no problem. If it has sat for a few days I use my fingers to activate the choke (aftermarket bars, took the choke cable out) and hit the starter. Sometimes it dies on me but won't after a second startup. Off the choke within 10 seconds and leave it idling to warm up as I throw a shirt on and get everything I need to leave for the day.

Here's what I ordered from Jets R Us.

I'm no mechanic (if that wasn't obvious enough) and to be honest don't know what I'm doing. This forum and a lot of swear words have got me to where I'm at.

Cheers

 

Please do a full tear down. Break the bodies from the rails. Remove the butterflys pull the shafts , after ALL seals are removed , submerge in Berryman carb cleaner in your case up to 2 hrs per carb . Put the float bowls in to. Order all new seals fron xj4ever , listen to KMoe about getting the busted stud out. No one is trying to miss lead you here only trying to save you frustration , try to keep you from making mistakes. Good luck

 

I get the impression, reading through this thread, that there is a lot of confusion over what part is what- i.e. when the slide needles were confused for the float needles, etc. And that could be a top issue here.

1. Fix the float levels. There should never be raw gas pouring out of the spark plug hole. A cylinder filled with fuel is a quick way to bent or broken things. This is the first problem.

2. Air leaks. The carb boots with home made gaskets and only half the hardware holding them on. No good banana. Home made gaskets are fine, but you need both bolts when there are only two to begin with.

3. The choke/enrichment circuit. FYI- the bike should idle just fine with the above two issues corrected, but it will still require ether to start. That is there this comes in. The choke circuit starts in the float bowls with this evil little passage that draws fuel from the bottom of the bowl, up through the wall of the bowl and then into the body of the carb. That is where the torch tip needles come in. It took me roughly 45 mins per float bowl to clean these on my carbs- poking with guitar strings and spraying/soaking with cleaner until I could put the nozzle of the can at the entrance in the bottom of the bowl and squirt a jet across the garage from the exit at the gasket surface of the bowl. Clean those, and your bike will start without ether.

4. The pilot circuit- see the three tiny holes in the throat of the carb, near where the butterfly is? Ad idle and slightly above, that is where the fuel comes from. Pull the idle mixture screws and you should be able to spray cleaner through to the throat of the carb. The fuel needs to get from the bowl (pilot jet) to the screw and then out those holes. That controls the carb mixture idle to 1/4 throttle.

5. The slide needle- this controls mixture from 1/4-3/4 throttle. The washers you mentioned- they raise the needle, causing its' taper to close the opening in the emulsion tube later/open it sooner, meaning more fuel, meaning richer in the midrange. Fine tuning here will be key to getting it to run well with the pods.

I apologize if any of this is redundant to you, just hoping that maybe it includes a detail that lights a bulb about your head for a Eureka! moment. Party, on Garth!

 

Do you. REALLY wanna see where the fuel goes,and where the holes go? No need to watch some video.......go look at the cut-aways and you can see EXACTLY where they ARE.

http://www.xj4ever.com/inside your carbs.pdf

Dave F

 

Thanks for all the info guys everyone's a huge help here no doubt. The PDF from k-moe is without what saved "me arse" yesterday I welded a nut the the broken studs as much as I could but I was scared to try to get the stud out and had to scurry off to base so tomorrow if I get them out without drilling I'll post a picture of the empty holes and of war-path and let you guys know if that fixed the problem with the full throttle red line rpms for no reason lol I left my prime on for about 10 minutes after adjusting the tangs and shimming the needles and what'd ya know, no more gas in the spark plug socket hahah who knows how many millimeters I need ID for a pod filters to fit my hitachis? And is there any 2 into 1 filters that I can buy to make the bike that much more different than everyone elses?

 

One more question. I got this stuff from work that I dripped into the carb float tube and it did after time manage to drip out of somewhere; now when I go to spray carb cleaner to check for pressure and make sure it's clean all the way through, where exactly am I expecting to see it spray out of?

 

By float tube do you men the needle valve seat? That connects to the fuel inlet T on the carb rack.

If you mean the brass enrichment well tube, then that connects to one of the teeny-tiny holes next to the throttle plate (and to the enrichment jet in the float bowl).

Dave linked the PDF too. He gets credit.

 

52mm

Do not get the cheap ones. The rubber separates from the filter base and allows dirt to bypass the filter. Only use K&N or UNI filters with the bonded base.

 

Good god those holes are insanely small in front of the throttle plate lol

 

To any riders with pods from k&n, did you buy them through k&n or did you buy them somewhere else and what's the part number through k&n, it looks as if there's hundreds of options but I don't want to waste my time buying pod filters that don't fit ya know

 

They have to be, otherwise the engine would never start.

 

This!!!

 

Let's say for instance that 1. The stinkin lady still wouldn't start without ether. So is there a schematic or diagram to take apart the carb rack and where can I find some berrymans?
2. Let's also say for instance that she sounds amazing and starts right up great, however, If the 4th cylinder was lame and not getting fuel, would the other 3 cylinders attempt to compensate for the lack of fuel to the 4 cylinder therefor causing it to idle extremely high or would that most likely be caused by the residual starting fluid? Compression is great on all cylinders and the bowl has fuel in it I just have a feeling the jet might be clogged, or could it also be blame to the float possibly being stuck? The needle was sticking a little when i took the bowl off. Sorry guys I'm getting anxious now that I'm making progress thanks to you all of course.!

 

You can get Berrymans at Autozone it is in 1 gallon it has a small basket inside. Your carbs are not synched right, one or more carbs are out . Did you bench synch. Okay a quick and easy get 2 buisness cards cut then i half length wise, put the 4 ( 1 per carb)pieces under the butterflys . There should be a slight tightness if you pull on them if not adjust the synch screw until you get a slight resistence. Hold carbs up to a light source there should be a little bit showing at bottom. This is what I did on mine...my bike screams and I did my carbs at the church of clean. Only had to do this once. I just got back from a 25 mile ride it is 90 degrees so didn't feel like going further .My helment was full of bugs , riding at night in the Indiana back roads that happens.

 

Dude. You need to go to church (of clean). Break that rack down 100% and go the whole nine yards. I know you are in the information overload hour. The answers are here.

 

Alright guys so I'm sure most of you have given up on this thread by now but I have a question. Yes, another question. I spoke about the fourth cylinder not firing the other day, I rechecked my measurements on the float level and float tang and after adjustment, all cylinders fire now.
Next, I took the rack apart and soaked it in berrymans for an entire week, put the rack back together and still no choke. Enrichment tube passageway is most definitely still plugged. I saw some guys say they used a guitar string and what not but it bottoms out when I try to feed it through, so how'd ya guys get it to work?
1 more thing, where did you guys say I can buy a kit for the seals for inside the carbs?

 

One more thing!! On the filter side of the carb, where the filter sits on the lip there is a jet on the left side and a jet on the right side. My left side jet is leaking so what is stuck?

 

The two jets on the carb inlet are air control jets for venting the float bowl. If you have fuel leaking out of them then your float levels are too high.

Did you remove all the rubber parts before dipping the carbs?

Did you blow compressed air or canned carb cleaner through the passages to clear out any loose crud?

The enrichment wells in the float bowl are usually where the blockage in the enrichment circuits are. You can thread wire through from both directions. It will bottom out. Be careful to not enlarge or damage the enrichement jet in the float bowl. They are essentially non-replaceable.

Start a conversation with Chacal for your parts needs.

 

I have an 82 XJ that I'm currently running Pods and a Mac 4 into 1. Took me all last Summer, but I got it Running. Had to jet it out to #130 and do some Tuning but was able to smooth out the 6k Dead spot. But I would personally advise against Pod's.. Yes they draw more Air, but they totally Kill Volcity and you can definitely feel the difference. I'm currently looking for the longest set of Volcity Stacks I can fit.

 

Ladies aaaand Gentlemen! Over in the other corner we have yet ANOTHER person who discovered what we keep saying! Please give a warm welcome ... yaaaayyy!!! ( and the crowd goes wild!!)

 

Did someone say "Pods Stink"?

I posted some vids recently after getting the FZX running on the progression of open carbs, and a jetting upgrade.
Then I added the intake tubes, and eventually the K&N with the airbox fully assembled.

Watch in sequence and listen to the changes: (Note that the air temp on all the vids was below 40 degrees)

Original with stock jetting:


Some upgrades to the jetting (larger Pilot and Main jets):


Lower airbox with intake tubes (with a step down on the Pilot Air jets):


And then with a fully assembled airbox with the K&N installed:


Here's a closeup of the intake tubes:


Tony

 

Ok, so I was inspired to do some tinkering. I went out and got the idea to remove my Pod Boot's and try to fit them on the Factory intake Boot's, and they fit Perfectly! They barley fit on the Bike but I gottem on there and it came right back to life.. it pulls way harder than before, I need new tires so I had to put it up lol.

 

the boots are used to swirl the air from the air box . sort of like a velocity stack works it will make it run better with the pods attached to the boots.

 

Yeah, it definitely did. Fixed all the issues I had.

 

This was from today, I didn't Run all the way through the Quarter mile. As you can see from the bottom right corner I let off at 90. But I was movin. My guess is 10.50's if I made a full pass.

 

I will make a full pass when my new Tires get here in a few weeks.

 

See you got some nice results with modding the intakes.
BTW, what App is that?

Tony

 

Yeah, I'm actually pretty surprised. And that specific one is called GPS Race Timer, it's in the Play Store. There's a handful of others available as well.