Help! Stator replacement.

I am going to be replacing the stator on my 81 xj650 midnight maxim. I need to find a step by step instruction on how to do this. The stator went out on me yesterday. I am trying to fix it as soon as possible. I just got my bike registered on Friday. I am a new rider and new to motorcycles in general. I have been learning how to work on my bike as it has needed the repairs.

Thank you in advance.

 

Let's take a step back.
How do you know that the stator is faulty?

 

When I start the bike it will run long enough to warm up. As soon as it is warm it dies and will not start again until it cools down. I can't even get it running long enough to ride it for a minute.

Just to make sure, I also tested my regulator rectifier with my multimeter. It check out ok.

 

Are the valves in spec?

Gary H.

 

To be honest, I'm not sure what you are talking abou . I am new to working on bikes.

 

The bike was running great not even 3 days ago. Then all of a sudden on Saturday morning when I tried to ride it died immediately after it warmed up.

 

Doesn't sound like an alternator issue....

 

According to the service manual, you need TWO multimeters ("pocket testers") to check the regulator/rectifier for proper operation............

 

I think he may need to start from the beginning. Info overload, church of clean, etc.

 

When you get to the valve adjustment as Gary is suggesting, This is the step by step that you need:
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/airhead-valve-adjustment-with-pics.14827/

 

I have only been abe to find a few videos on testing the stator and the regulator. I'm not 100% sure I'm doing it the correct way. My brother is the one who told me that my stator is bad. He has been riding for a long time and works on bikes. However he lives across the country. So he can only give be a diagnosis based on the same symptoms of the bike that I gave on here.

 

Thank you for this! I had no idea about this.

Do you know about how long this should take? Can it be done in a few hours or is it a couple of day job?

 

Does it sound familiar to you?

 

It's not a bad idea to check your valve clearances as it can give these symptoms (the clearence will be tighter as the engine warm up), and make the valves to not fully close.

 

First time plan on a couple hours, go slow, be meticulous (document clearances, pull every shim and record the sizes/ locations) and make sure you have a new gasket for when you put it back together. If you are extremely lucky you can do the shim dosey doh and be back up and running. If they are out of spec you should not run the bike and may need to wait several days to get the correct shims (contact Hogfiddles). And make sure you doNOT over torque the cover screws when reassembling.

 

Ok, thank you very much. I will do this before spending the money on the stator.

 

Thank you. I will take my time and double check/document everything. This could save me a lot of money.

 

It may be a little intimidating at first but it's really quite easy once you get going.

 

That's good to know. Thank you.

 

I didn't see a list of the tools needed in the post. Would you by chance know what exact tools are needed for this job?

 

If you have any tools at all in your toolbox, chances are you have some already. If you don't, the good news is that Harbor Freight has inexpensive sets of things that for general wrenching around your bike, they will last forever...

Metric Box Wrench Set (nine bucks!)You'll need the 19mm for turning the crankshaft:
http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-metric-highly-polished-combo-wrench-set-42305.html

Hex Drive Set: (15 bucks!) Not sure which on off the top of my head to remove cover bolts... but it's in this set:
http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-38-and-12-drive-metric-hex-bit-socket-set-67880.html

and/or

Hex Ket Set (nine bucks!)... for the hard to reach bolts... you'll need the metric ones:
http://www.harborfreight.com/36-piece-sae-metric-hex-key-set-94725.html

Metric Feeler Gauge Set (fifteen bucks!) Item [HCP6383]
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/xj-parts-catalog-section-p-the-toolbox.44630/

A pair of forceps (tweezers, or hemostats, or magnet on a stick, etc...) to pull shims out.

A small flat screwdriver to pop shims from their buckets.

And In my opinion, zip ties for the zip tie method of holding the valve open for pulling the shims... But that's a whole other discussion.

 

Or a single strand of insulated 12 gauge copper house wire, one foot long.

 

Nice drawing!

 

I practiced a lot in 3rd grade

 

Thank you both! This seems much less intimidating, knowing what exact tools are needed. I will share my progress after I have been able to work on my bike again. This forum has been extremely helpful!

 

I like the detail on the threaded spark plug hole and from the looks of it you even used a piece of wire that has "experience" in doing the job!

 

Ok, so I just found out that I have been using the wrong gas in my bike. I have been using regular gas (87 octane) instead of premium gas (93 octane). I found d out that I am suppose to use no less than 91 octane. Could that be part of my problem? Even though I have been running it with regular this entire time?

 

Says who?

Gary H.

 

It's says it on a label in the side cover on the side with the rectifier.

 

There are several methods for determining octane. The U.S. is the oddball (imagine that) in averaging two of the methods to arrive at pump octane. You have been using the correct fuel all along.

 

When your XJ was made the octane rating was given using the MON standard, which is why it has a higher number than you'll see at the pump for the same octane of fuel (now given as (RON + MON) /2 in the U.S.).

 

Awesome! Thank you for the info.

 

Add a double shot of Seafoam after everything other full up and your bike will be fine fuel wise.

Gary H.

 

He'll be fine fuel wise even without the Seafoam, toough it won't hurt to use it.

 

Agreed. I just add it for good measure.

Gary H.

 

I decided to start the bike one last time before I took it apart. Just to see what happens. It started and was smoking a light grey smoke. I'm not 100% sure. As I am partially color blind. It was smoking really bad for a while. I was able to keep the bike running long enough to try and ride it for a minute after adjusting the idle. I brought it back in the garage and shut it off. After that it would not start again.

Does this give anymore insight and confirmation that it is a problem with the valves?

 

Gary H.

 

Thank you. That is all I needed to know.

 

GUYS- it warms up, dies, and then starts again when cool. That's exactly what ignition coils do when they fail, no? Agreed, it could also be tight valves.

 

Can be, but unlikely both at the same time, check if you have spark next time it happens. Did you check your clearences?

 

I do get spark on all the plugs. I have not had time to check the clearence yet. I work second shift and I work 12 hours a day right now. So it won't be until the weekend when I can work on it.

 

Shims in 3rd grade? Nice!

 

Ok read all this.. started out "bad stator" Start over.. what condition is your BATTERY in ? is the level correct ? serviced with distilled water? How do your battery lead look any corrosion? Check lead at starter too . The Solenoid might have corrosion as well, starter button wiring, Is your fuse block still original or has it been upgraded to blade type fuses. ALL of these things could be a problem, I do agree checking valves is a priority, as well as cleaning carbs , but one problem at a time .

 

It's not the stator.

 

Are you sure?

 

The bike starts again when it cools down. If the stator were faulty the bike would run until the battery was drawn down too far to be able to re-start without bump-starting.
Stator stops puting out pixies, the bike runs on what pixies have been resting in the battery, until they are all pooped out.
So yes, I'm sure.

 

I agree , but he does not give enough info of what he has done ,or not...

 

If you multimeter is telling the r/r is ok, how are you determining that?

If it's by steady voltage at about 14.5v or so, your stator is fine. If it is only at battery level and dropping, then it starts to point that way, but other things can still be the issue....

Sounds more like TCI symptoms at a quick glance

 

I have replace the fuse box and all the controls. The battery is still pretty new. And I took it and got it refilled with acid, charged up at the store and then it was tested to make sure it was good. The battery stays at 13.19 volts at rest. But jumps up to 14 volts when I try and start the bike.

 

I did a continuity test on all the white wire connections. They all measured the same. And then did the same thing for the, what I think are green wires. And they also all measured the same.