New Rider, seeking some tips from advanced riders/Knowledgeable riders.

Hi there, I'm new to all things motorcycles. I recently got my first bike the Maxim 750! First off, I'm really enjoying the bike, and glad to know that the whistling noise it makes is supposed to happen! I have been having some issues though. When the bike idles I can't seem to find a comfortable spot on the choke, and sometimes the bike will go up to 2k rpms while idling! It immediately goes back down to 1k if i turn the choke all the way down. Anyone know if this is an issue with the Bike itself? Also, I have a hard time during takeoff, not sure if I'm just novice or something else is wrong, I regularly seize up the bike when trying to take off. Perhaps I'm not giving it enough gas? The bike seems to struggle when I let off the clutch. Any info is greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance, Dillon!

 

There are 2 pieces of required reading. You'll have to find them for yourself because my phone doesn't have the links.
First is "The Information Overload Hour". It'll take more than an hour to read it all.
Second is "In the Church of Clean" . It's usually a carb cleaning that straightens out the issues you describe. Perhaps a petcock rebuild as well.

 

Re: the choke. As the engine warms up you will need to adjust it. It's not a switch. Start backing it off a bit as the engine warms up. Warm idle (no choke) should be a bit above 1,000 RPM, but under 1,500 RPM. You will not usually need to even use it at all during a Florida summer.

 

Awesome, Thanks for the reply! I took the carbs off and cleaned the today! Haven't had a chance to get on the bike to see how the takeoff is now. Thanks for the replies guys! I'll warm the bike up tomorrow and see how it idles after the carb cleaning I did today. Hoping it solved the issues I was having. Any tips on where my rpm should be at during take off in 1st gear? I have not taken the MSF or ever ridden a street bike before, so maybe I'm just not used to take offs yet?

 

When started cold and put on choke, mine revs up to 3000 RPM for a few seconds then down to 2000 for a minute or so. I've always thought this is normal. The bugging when you release the clutch could be due to the engine not warmed up enough(if you back off the choke too early, that's normal), or you may not give enough throttle , period.

 

Hey I appreciate the reply! I have not ever let the bike warm up before trying to hop on it for a quick ride! I will be sure to let the bike do it's thing and not back off the choke for a few minutes tomorrow! I'm not even sure how much throttle is enough throttle to be honest!

 

You should let the choke on it until it starts to sputter a bit, you will hear the difference then back it off a bit, and so on until it'S warmed up. Don't be afraid to rev the engine too much when releasing the clutch, just don't release it too fast then!!! I'm not sure, but I won't be surprised if I rev the engine around 2000 RPM before I let the clutch go.

 

Haha! Yeah, I've been watching videos about the friction zone and throttle control! XD It's becoming clear to me that I'm letting go of the clutch wayyyyy too fast. I'll be sure to post my embarrassing results with a reply to you sometime this weekend friends!

 

Remember that you have a wet clutch (bathed in oil). You can slip it a lot without any damage.

 

Hey! Thanks for the information, I started reading some of the materials in your signature, and admittedly only understanding about 15% of it haha! I see most of these videos people make about takeoff are done with fairly new bikes. (Obviously newer than 2010) Having a hard time finding videos of older cycles. Will my bike begin to move forward without giving it throttle? I think it was called "feathering"? Where you can get the bike rolling without any throttle. Is this possible on my '82 maxim?

 

To move more than a few feet you will need to use the throttle, but not much of it.
I highly recommend that you park the bike until after you take an MSF course. The bikes they use are much easier to learn on, and more forgiving. Accidentally tipping a 500 pound motorcycle onto your leg can result in a hospital trip. Not so much with a 250 pound learner machine.

 

Hey again! I see many things about the MSF course and how important it is, so I will definitely heed your warning and park the bike till I get some more hands on experience. I'm glad I found this forum, I was having a really hard time finding information on the XJ series bikes! No doubt I will continue to be an active member here, I had no idea how big a difference being a "biker" and "a dude who rides motorcycles" could be! I definitely don't want a trip to the hospital and definitely don't want to see my new baby potentially broken before I even have a chance to ride her properly! I'd just like to give a big thanks to you guys who keep the forum alive and take the time to answer some of the most noob rider questions I have to offer! XD I'm sure you've seen the questions I'm asking posted hundreds of times already!

 

You are learning, that is a good first step. Take that MSF!

You must be a savant! I find it hard to believe that someone 'new to motorcycles' could have properly cleaned a rack of 4 carbs in one day - plus you want to refurbish (replace the 30+ year old worn out bits) as well as clean, you really need to go to Church. It took me a better portion of a day just removing and replacing my rack the first time . . . however I am an Idiot and have the hat, shirt and shot glass to prove it.

 

You will also want to address all the safety issues such as tires n brake systems. Rear brake should be opened up and inspected. Front lines are probably way too old, as well as the tires.

 

I took the MSF course early last week. I had been driving around w/ my father-in-law prior to that, but this course was really helpful! I went to the DMV the afternoon we finished and got my license.

 

Haha, well I got EXTREMELY lucky, the previous owner had done a bunch of the things the bike needed, he had rebuilt the carbs pretty recently so there wasn't much for me to do in there! I won't lie either, getting those carbs off took me around an hour, then just taking apart the most basic pieces on it/organizing my screws and stuff took me around another hour. then doing REALLY basic cleaning took me about an hour... I'm sure you can guess where this is going lol I think I started around noon and didn't finish completely till 5 pm!

 

Glad to hear it! Can't wait to be cruising the roadways with you! Ride on!

 

Yeah, the front break is sticking and I haven't gotten my hands dirty to look into either brake system, I will have to do that when I get home from work today! Please leave some tips for me to read when I get home! XD

 

I ended up rebuilding my entire front brake system after discovering a brake line dated from 1981!! The master cylinder was not operating smoothly and the brake caliper barely moved. I got them both freed up, cleaned up and re-built w/ parts from Chacal. I installed new stainless steel braided brake lines and one I got through the pain of bleeding a new system, it's been superb. Here's the thread where I worked through things: http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/brake-refurb.96466/

 

I really want to get in there and work on my breaklines, but in all the responses to your post it looks like I'm gonna need some tools that I don't have, and I don't know if I can afford shop fee's either. Will I be able to fix them with just basic garage tools? IE: basic screwdrivers/socket wrench sets?

 

Yes. The only special tools you'll need is a grease gun and deep-reach circlip pliers. Both are inexpensive.

 

Awesome! Thanks for the info, I'm guessing I can get these at an automotive shop such as autozone/O'reilly/nappa?

 

yes.

 

Hey thanks for the reply! Any tips on what brand is the most reliable?

 

You won't be using them often enough to need to worrry about reliability or quality. They are simple enough tools that you almost can't go wrong to buy whatever. I do reccomend avoiding circlip pliers that have replaceable pins.
I also just had to look locally for a pair with a deeper reach than what I have (deeper than you'd need for an XJ master cylinder) and found that nobody here carries a set of 90º offset circlip pliers anymore (NAPA, O'Riley, Autozone, ACE, TSC, Orschlein). You may have to order them.

 

You're the best! Thanks for all your help, I'll be trying to post some more to other parts of the boards to keep learning! You've all been really awesome, and I can't wait to get into the MSF course!

 

Heyyyyy, I know I keep bothering you lol, So I got a grease gun, couldn't find the pliers in store gonna have to check online. I also got new oil for the bike (20W-50) Checked your wet clutch guide to make sure I was getting the right stuff. When I go to drain the oil, is it the big Bolt right in the middle of the exhaust? I also hear things about the "master cylinder" when working on the brakes, is it the Box that sits on the right hand side handle bars that says I fill with DOT4 brake fluids? Also how do I go about using this grease gun in the right spots? OH and one last thing! How easy is it to get into my clutch and clean out my clutch plates?

 

Looks like I'm gonna have to remove the headers to get the the drain I want! Guess I'll start working on getting them off first.

 

Not positive about the 750 but on my XJ650 Maxim the oil drain is in between the exhaust at the lower from side of the engine. You will drain it and then remove the filter (north of drain plug). Yes the Master Cylinder is the little box on your right handle bar (again on a 650).

As far as I know the grease gun will be used for removing the brake piston. Block of where the brake fluid comes in, loosen bleeder valve and then attach grease gun to the fitting.

Is there a problem with your clutch?

 

1. The oil drain bolt is just below the oil filter housing ( he big finned "bump" between the center headers).

2. Yes, that's the master cylinder. You will need a rebuild kit for it, new brake lines (unless yours are already new, check the date codes 0n the lines), and rebiuld kits for the calipers, and probably new pads (and shoes for the rear). Brakes are more important than any other system on the bike.

3. You do not ned to clean the clutch plates. If it's slipping then you need new friction plates.

 

Whoa - pump the brakes!
(Couldn't resist)

Pictures please of what drain you speak of prior to moving forward.

 

NO you do not.
You are looking at the middle-gear drain. No Touchy-touchy that one. Leave it be.

 

Awesome, so I don't need to be removing the headers to drain the old oil? where will the dates on my brake lines be located?

 

Got it! don't drain the middle gear, just that big bolt in between the headers. That's a relief as the headers were starting to get frustrating! I am not very experienced but I do not believe the clutch is having any problems, just thought it was one of those checklist things I should go ahead and make sure they were properly cleaned. Any advice using Seafoam in the clutch to clean it out? good idea/ bad idea?

 

nice pun lol, not sure if anything is wrong with the clutch persay, I was just gonna go take a look inside to make sure everything was clean and no damages, but I guess I should not mess with them for now.

 

OH YEAH and thanks for the quick reply too, I almost Goofed haha.

 

This is the bad boy I'm gonna go ahead and "pull the plug" on! pic for reference

 

Yar...that be the bung ye be pullin'...

 

The clutch, gearbox, and engine all share the same oil. Seafoam is not a bad idea to run for a while on an engine that has sat. 1 oz per quart.

 

Yarrrr, awesome me matey! So I can literally measure it out and put it into the oil without worrying about slipping? Or is that something I should have done PRE oil change?

 

You can add the seafoam at any time.

The date codes for the brake lines will be printed along the line somewhere, in white.

 

"you can add the seafoam at any time" Awesome! good to know! I let the oil drain for about 6 - 8 hours last night, gonna be putting in the new oil sometime today! Thanks for all your help, I'll no doubt be back for more!

 

You really only need to let the oil drain for about 10 minutes; 20 at the most.

 

Awesome lol, well I let it drain for a bit the oil was almost black, guessing that's really bad because the new oil is pretty transparent! Good news though, the bike is idling better than ever! I do however have something to report. Upon trying to start the bike up, it had some troubles turning over but once it finally started it began making this ticking sound from the front right side of the engine. I thought maybe it was the headers leaking so I tightened them up really good. The noise has faded away now but I managed to get a video of the sound before it was gone. Thoughts? will post video when I get inside.

 

So this is the ticking sound.

 

I also came across some abnormal smoking from my engine? Also I found many things like the gas tank and metal of the handlebars, even the ignition was hot to the touch. Good or bad? I also appeared to find some leaks? here's a link to the video that shows where there are what appear to be tiny bubbles coming out of the seals?

 

The smoke is dust and crud burning off. The ticking sounds like the semi-usual cam tick. There was a TSB about it. Some of the 650 and 750 engines got cam exhaust cam caps that were a teeny-bit narrow, allowing the cam to tap from side to side. All it does is make a bit of noise. Nothing to worry about at all.

 

Even the spots on the seal that look like bubbles coming out? :O Thanks for the replies!

 

I did not notice that in the video. Are you talking about the head gasket?
If there are bubbles there then you may have loose head nuts, or a compromised gasket.
Have you done a compression check?

 

Yeah, it's hard to see in the second video. There is some kind of rubber or plastic seal between the headgasket and the lower part of the engine. There are tiny bubbles that were coming out on both sides of the engine. How do I do a compression check?