No Idea

Well I got the valve pads in place. But I cant figure out the dam cam.
I can't figure out the manual to properly line it up so its in time with the other one.

 

take the bolts out of the cam sprockets but keep the sprockets on the "ledge" where they will go.
spin the crank to tdc, (sprockets spin but not cams.)
tensioner in and ready to go
spin the cams to lineup the cam marks. (crank and chain don't move)
drop the sprockets one at a time to line up the holes, if they don't line up make them them the same distance the same way and move the crank to make them line up
put the bolts in loose
rotate the engine forward gently one rev of the cams and check all the marks again
you might have to jump the chain one tooth either way and the marks might not be perfect
the adjustment will be one tooth either way, it will be close or obviously wrong

 

that's not right, when the cams and crank are lined up you have to drop the sprockets off the ledge one at a time and jump the chain till the holes line up.
they won't be perfect but make them the same way, the same distance, then move the crank to line them up

 

I just don't get it. Time to hire a mechanic.

 

So got the cam in but at tdc the ex and in marks don't line up with cams. Looks like the ex might be off one tooth and the intake 2 teeth.
Can I just unbolt the sprockets and turn the cams in place and jump the sprokets on the chain????.

 

I don't have a stationary pointer. Just the bolt hole where one would be.

 

You don't need to unbolt the sprockets. You need to move the cams by lifting the slack chain off of the sprockets. You do still have the cam chain tensioner removed, and the front cam chain guide out, correct?

Keep in mind that the minimum adjustment you can make is one-tooth. As the cam chain wears the indexing marks will not line up perfectly, and that is normal. Being a whole tooth (or more) off is correctable, but being less than a tooth off is not (and correcting that is not necessary since the valve timing will still be in the allowable range).

 

Just when I put it to tdc the lobs do not evenly point away from each other. And when I rotate it so the timing marks are line up with cam and sprockets its alittle ways off the tdc mark.

 

Crapp thing is I just gave a "mechanic" 75 bucks he tell me to put it together and start it and see if she works.
Think is it rolls over good. But not everything lines up.

 

post pics. Like I've said, the marks aren't going to line up perfectly.

 

The lobes are not the reference point. The timing marks are. The cam lobes will all be in different positions, by design.

 

Ex is on with tdc. Think ill be fine to move intake on tooth

 

Just to be sure you are using the upper pickup coil as the indicator for TDC as you have the 1986 X?

Noted in this post:

http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/maxim-x-shim-check.68116/#post-468291

 

Got it guys. Had to move one tooth on intake sprocket. Everything lineing up . maybe a fraction off. But barley

 

And that's as good as it needs to be, and as good as it will get unless you put in a new cam chain (and even then the marks won't necessarally be perfectly aligned).

 

Thank you everyone that helped. I really appreciate it.

 

New topic. But still have no idea.

Note* that this bike has only seen the elements of rain. Twice maybe. Always stored indoors. Never left out over night.
intake and airbox rubbers are like new and flex like new..
And the carbs still almost look like off factory floor.

Valves are in spec. Since re installation of carbs, I had to adjust idle because it was lower then before.
From a cold start it just about starts but needs a bit of throttle to stay going.
Warm up to temp, turn off, turn on. It starts. No issue.
Warm up to temp. Turn off anymore then a couple minutes. It needs almost half throttle to fire up almost like its flooding and clears up once she goes.
Also Boggs pretty bad when I wanna take off from a stop. Have to keep the revs up to keep it from dying.
And when riding along the odd time when I pull clutch and come to a stop it wants to die out. And need to give a couple small revs.

It started doing this about a week before I did the valves.

The carbs were cleaned and synced. In august.
I drained the bowls today and there was still some dirt in the gas.

Please help

 

Check conditions inside carbs again

 

Ordering a Morgan carbtune tomorrow.

 

+1

 

you did the valves, you have to do a running sync

 

Valve adjustment done.Running sync done. Air mixture at 2.5. New plugs.
Still having an issue at low rpm on take off from a stop. Bike bogs down like it dont wanna go. Gotta ride the clutch and keep revs up untill about 2 and half grand. Then she works like a top. And sometimes when i come to a stop pull the clutch, she wants to die. Also hard starting when warm. Like its not getting gas.
Its weird because when its cold. Starts fine. Itll set there and pur like a kitten. Everthing works fine while driving but not whem i wanna take off or. stop. And also itll pur like a kitten when its at op temp as well.
Im mind boggled

 

What happens if you bring the enricher back on a little at a time

 

Idle gets rougher and rougher then stalls out.

 

Also check petcock flow and cleaned ruglator and generator conections. Air filter looks alittle dirty. Gonna try that before a clean. But i cant see that causing the hard start when warm issue.

 

im ready to sell this friggin thing.

 

also enricher dosent work. im guessing,.. bike sits for few days half or full enricher it wont start. no enricher will start then stall. then have to keep on the throttle to warm it up.

 

Why? Some of us took years to get it dialed in.....

 

i know, just the frustration, kicking in. took carbs off, dont really wanna do full break down yet, but i took all the jets out. and the big one in the middle that pops out, a couple of them had some weird jell in around them, on my way to get some cleaner for them to soak in.

 

well ended up breaking carbs down, and there clean as a whistle, and all rubbers are good, id say by the looks of it its been rebuilt with o rings already. float lv is good, did bench sync and running sync. and still acting the same way.

what would be the next suggestion?

 

Not an expert - could idle mixture be wrong and running rich?

When running a bit rich mine had your symptoms : "Warm up to temp, turn off, turn on. It starts. No issue.
Warm up to temp. Turn off anymore then a couple minutes. It needs almost half throttle to fire up almost like its flooding and clears up once she goes."

Do you have a colortune plug? What does your spark plug color look like?

 

open the bowl drains then put the petcock to prime and look for a carb dripping gas. i'm thinking one or more of the floats is leaking a little. sniff the oil for gas

 

These statements are somewhat contradictory-
Let me paint you a picture....
You are in a building, a large building with vaulted ceilings, there are rows of benches and colorful sky-high windows with some peculiar scenes depicted upon them. You look ahead and see a large marble alter, the smell of incense lingers in the air, behind you on a mezzanine level is a monster of an organ. In one of the rear corners of this vast arena is what looks like porta-potties, but they have doors of beautifully carved wood.

You walk towards these doors because in your heart of hearts you know you must enter them, you step in and sit on a most uncomfortable bench, you hear a voice but no one can see you.... it is time to confess. Did you, @Joe34 take your carbs to Church?

 

"By the looks...."
I translate as 'i looked at them but I dint replace them, so they're still the old parts that have been in there for who-knows-how-long'.

That means you didn't totally break them down.

Here's what breaking down looks like:

Etc......

 

Eep!

 

Depends on what organ.....

 

I just don't get why I need new jets. Or needles when their is absolutely nothing wrong with mine.

 

you do not need jets , mostly you need fuel rail o rings mixture screw o ring and needle valve replacment (unless they are working) throttle shaft seals

 

Pipe organ?

 

you said float heights were ok have you checked and done a fuel level check?

 

Im gonna start from scratch and take them to church over the winter.
One qustion though. Do i have to do the glass beed prosess .?

 

no thats for cleaning and shining the outside of the carbs.

 

I had peformance issues like that on an "82" 650 maxim. I had installed 4 new (cheap ebay) brass accelerator needles,
I cleaned up the originals and switched the brass ones out and the bike had much more power on accelerating.

 

One last qustion. For now.

Do i messure the vavle clearance when the lobe it pointing directly up from the valve. ?

Or when it is on each tdc mark and the lobs are kinda on an upward angle kinda almost facing away from each other ?

 

yes directly up from the valve

X reading book

 

this is where I'm confused some say what you said,
and then my manual says
be sure piston is at TDC on compression stroke when measuring valve.