Bike doesn't start in cold weather

I didn't mean I soaked the carbs, I meant I drained the carbs and then filled them with Berrymans through the gas hose and let it sit overnight. Sorry for not being clear.

 

the gas eveporates. if you look inside of the carbs and spray cleaner into the 2 holes in the backside of the carb throat (air box side)you will see it come into the carbs where the jets are. 1 is a vent the other is for the asperator tube.

 

Thanks. I don't want to pull the carbs off the bike just yet since the bike is basically working. I've been spending more time working on this bike then riding it that I believe a lot of the quirks may work themselves out as I get use to it. Maybe I'm opening up the clutch too fast before the bike catches on hence the sputtering. I am still kind of curious about the popping sound at deacceleration and I'm just going to open the pilot screws a little bit more to see if that fixes it. Thanks for your help.

 

popping is a lean cylinder look at your plugs and adjust to what you see.

 

Sorry to start a new thread but I don't feel like I've described my charging problem correctly so, here it goes:

The bike is an XJ550Seca and after riding for about 15 minutes the bike stops charging at spec. It maybe hits 12.5volts at 3000rpms and it idles at 12.1volts. The first 15 minutes the volt meter is easily pointing at 14+volts though and everything is great but like I said after a while I can see in the voltmeter on the cluster that it barely gets past 12volts when before it was easily pointing at 14. The rotor and stator ohms check out to spec and the diodes in the regulator are fine. What could be the problem?

 

Just guessing but how you checked the rotor and stator ohms after the charging issues shows up? I have had issues in the past with a "partial open" once the bike and charging system heats up. The same thing happens on coils sometimes, once they heat up they change their resistance value.

 

Have you checked the brushes?

 

Interesting. No, I never tried checking any of the ohms readings after a ride mainly because the bike is too hot but I'll definitely give it a go. Thanks for the tip.

 

Brushes are brand new.

 

what about the brush holder that could be binding up keeping the brushed from making contact


regulator could be failing when it heats up opening a connection or diode.

heat can also affect the connectors

 

Are you testing with a reliable meter. The stock volt meter can not be trusted. I have had a broken resister in the meter causing a bouncing needle and low voltage reading when the voltage was good.

 

Buy a voltage gauge less than 20$ connect it up and go for a ride see what it reads .

 

Merged, because history matters.

 

Brush holder seems fine. I'm curious about heat and diodes though. Will a faulty diode reading read differently after the bike gets hot?

 

It's been raining like cats and dogs here in LA so I haven't been able to go out for a ride and do proper ohm and diode tests before and after a ride. Hopefully I will be able to get to it later in the week. When I do, I'll report my findings. Thanks for everyone's help.

 

Any chance you could merge my Used vs. New thread with this one? thanks

 

Already did this and it didn't reveal anything new.

 

Okay since your charging system as you state wont charge when hot 2 items either the rotor or stator is breaking down when hot , have replaced the stator yet? That is the easiest to replace , would try this first .

 

when diode or resistors get hot they can fail even though they read good when cold.
if when the charging fails , if you shut off the bike and restart does the charging still go low? if it does you will be able to detect a faulty diode or the resistor in the unit.

double check with a meter that the charging has gone low