O'rings for throttle shaft

I have a 1982 XJ 650 Maxim, and when I cleaned the carbs last year, two of the o'rings failed when I put them back together. What size are the o'rings, and do I need to use the buna type or will any o'rings do?

 

#11, regular old buna-n o-rings. nothing special.
two regular o-rings work but their tight, a O and a X fit together better and fit fit in the cavity better
either way the answer is #11

 

Awesome! The end seems to be fine, but two of the ones that go on the tubes that connect the carbs are the ones that had a little tear in them. Had half a tank of gas when I winterized the bike. Very little left when I tried to start it the other day.

 

I was watching another cafe racer build, and he used o'rings from a universal kit for the tubes that connect the carbs. Are these ok to use?

 

So after looking closer at the throttle shaft o'rings, they all have small cracks in them. Guess I should have looked closer the first time, or just replaced them the first time.

 

I have been looking everywhere for a #11 buna o-ring, but I don't have the id and of for them. Can anyone help me find some or sell me some?

 

round
https://www.mcmaster.com/o-rings/oil-resistant-buna-n-o-rings-8/
X-ring
https://www.mcmaster.com/o-rings/x-profile-oil-resistant-buna-n-o-rings/
look for Dash Number 011
get some silicone grease at the auto parts store

 

Awesome! I'll check it out! Thank you

 

On a different note. I was taking the covers off and polishing them. When I took off one of the Yamaha covers, there was a yellowish dust inside. There was no gasket on the cover and no parts inside. Is this something to be worried about?

 

I suspect you are referring to the RH crank end cap, or oil pump cover as Yamaha call it. The oil pump resides elsewhere BTW.
This cavity is empty but moisture from pressure washing can get in there, the yellowish dust is not concerning.
You can install a gasket to better keep moisture from collecting there.

 

That is what I was talking about. Good to know. Thanks!

 

Here is another issue I am having. I'm trying to polish things up while I'm waiting for the o'rings to be delivered. Does the bolt that goes through by the foot peg come out without the motor falling? I got the nut off the other side, but when I try to take this side off, it just spins.

 

So this is the rear engine mounting bolt. Do I need to support the engine if I take it out?

 

YES!

 

Thank you.

 

That looks better!

 

that cover has no gasket the other side does you can use the gasket that fits the other side if you want to add a gasket or seal it with rty gasket maker.

 

Probably do that another day, but thanks for the advice!

 

So I pulled the rear tire off to shine it up, and the whole shaft came out. Should I take the shaft out of the housing before I put it back together? I tried with it on, but couldn't get it back in.

 

Very good video on my problem.

 

Tried for 45 minutes with no luck. Feels like when I push to get the shaft in, it moves. Any pointers?

 

Just push the rubber boot off the swing arm and connect the male and female joint and replace the boot. It is secured by a spring similar to the ones that hold washing machine door seals.

 

Awesome. I thought it would be something simple.

 

quick tip is not to remove that assembly to start with. rim comes off the hub by pushing sideways

 

Kinda late for that bit of advice. Sorry for the sarcasm, just frustrated.

 

don't do that, the shaft makes the wheel go
you need to pull the rubber cover off the back of the motor to see the U joint, the shaft has a spring clip that fits inside the U joint. it kind of takes a bump/push to get it in, it will snap in place once the spring goes in.
now put the rear end/pumpkin/differential on just snug
now put your wheel back on

 

I was going to state the same but XJ550 posted it first, at least you know now Glen, better late than never.

 

Would it be alright to hole the U joint with needle nose pliers? It keeps moving when I align the shaft.

 

Yes hold the joint with pliers and grease the splines. If it helps you can use a cable tie on the joint to hold it in the right position from above if you have enough space.

 

Not much room to get in there. Should I take the whole assembly off?

 

Why not take the engine out?

 

Because I don't have a hoist.

 

Glen can you push the rubber boot off the swing arm? Even if you get the male and female parts in line you may have to rotate one slightly to let them join together. I have my engine out right now and what I did was undo the four bolts holding the two parts of the joint together. If you take the four nuts off the shaft where it enters the wheel hub it will be easier to rotate the shaft and hopefully get it joined where the boot is. Then refit the hub and tighten the four nuts it is much easier to work on with the hub off the shaft.

 

No I can't push it off. It rests against a crossing piece. That's why I'm thinking of taking the whole assembly off. If you look at the picture, there is the stupid lock where I might be able to get a hand in, but the crossing piece still gets in the way for me to gain access and pull the boot back.

 

Do you have a Haynes manual for the bike? You can take the swing arm off and assemble the swing arm and hub and then fit it back into the frame but you need to centralise the swing arm with the adjusting nut and then torque the other nut down and lock it with the washer.

 

Yes I have the Haynes manual, but I don't have a torque bar.

 

Well if you want to take the swing arm off do that and read up on centralising the arm on the frame so your drive shaft and output shaft from your engine line up properly.

 

I don't want to take it off, but it seems like a last resort for me

 

We have all been there you try and fix a machine and it does not go right and then you go back and it all goes together. Have a read at the manual and then decide what to do.

 

And then it just went back in! Put the boot back on tomorrow after I get some longer needle nose pliers. Now for a celebratory rum!

 

That's coincidence not a prophecy lol.

 

Just glad that is done and didn't have to take the swing arm off.

 

When you pull out the back wheel spindle and spacer the wheel stays put, on my 900 f so l just take it off the hub. The rest stays on the bike.

 

Last year when I was checking the brakes, I did it right. This is what happens when I rush to do things. Note to self, slow the f*** down!

 

New throttle shaft seals in, new spark plug caps, followed all the instructions for setting up the carbs, but it won't start. I have taken the carbs out 5 different times checking and rechecking but still nothing. I had it running last year, so I'm not sure what to try next.

 

Are the jets at the bottom of your float bowls clear? The fuel goes through the jet in the bottom of the bowls and up the brass tube for cold starting.

 

Everything has soaked in carb cleaner and blown out. Floats are set. Paper clipped the butterflys. Turns over but nothing. Not even a cough.

 

if that's where you left them, they might be open too wide for starting, back off the idle a bit
look at the kill switch

 

Kill switch is in the on position. I'll try backing off idle screw.