O'rings for throttle shaft

Having a heck of a time trying to get the shims out. When I put my small screwdriver under it, the ring that holds it in place comes up also. I'm pretty sure that doesn't come out. What can I do?

 

i use a small screwdriver the kind you can clip into your pocket. and a magnet to lift from bucket.

put screw driver in and rotate cw and ccw to pop shim free you may need to add a little oil to top of shim and through the slot.

 

Small screwdriver under the shim, lift it slightly, then use a pair of curved artery forceps to grip it and lift it out cleanly.

 

They have never been replaced and the bike hasn't started until last year. Things are stuck good.

 

It's just oil sticking them on to the buckets.

 

I bought a cheap set of pickers. I got three of them out, but running out of energy after a long day at work. Try to get the rest out tomorrow. Thanks for the help guys!

 

you are putting them back in as you find the size correct?

 

Yes. I have been watching a sh** ton of videos on how to remove them. Something about the 4 horsemen of apocalypse come if you don't put them back. Don't want to meet those guys!

 

if you have a compressor, a puff of air pops them right out. magnets work too but be quick about it

 

I can get the shims to pop out of the seat, but there isn't enough space to pull them out. Is there some sort of trick I can do? I'm using the zip tie method. It locks in place and doesn't move at all

 

Mabe you need a bigger zip tie. Reminds me of Jaws they needed a bigger boat lol. No seriously are the valves open enough the way the Yamaha tool would open them fully to give you enough clearance to get the shim out?

 

I thought they were, but I did manage to get another one out. 4 more to go. Wish I would have remembered just what it looked like when I popped the last one out. Going to watch some more videos and see if I can spot something.

 

https://xjbikes.com/forums/threads/bigfitzs-airhead-valve-adjustment-with-pics-parts-i-ii.116006/

Have a read at this.

 

I believe I'm not getting the zip tie in the right place. I need to look into the spark plug hole and see the valve, and then put the zip tie in. Try again tomorrow.

 

Yes l have not used zip ties to hold valves open but it needs to hold valve away from the seat enough to let you get the shim out. Keep at it you will get them changed. And make sure you put the numbers on the shim against the bucket otherwise the cam will wear the numbers off. Then you'll need a micrometer to measure the shims at a future shim change.

 

After looking in the spark plug hole, it is way easier to find the valve. I did the last 4 in less than 20 minutes.

 

After taking all the readings, this is what I have.
Inlet 1 - .04mm Inlet 2 - .08mm Inlet 3 - .06mm Inlet 4 - .08mm
Exhaust 1 - .13mm Exhaust 2 - .15mm Exhaust 3 - .15mm Exhaust 4 - .10mm
IS1 - 275 IS2 - 280 IS3 - 280 IS4 - 286
ES1 - 260 ES2 - 270 ES3 - 265 ES4 - 270
So if I'm reading the chart correct, I need to have IS1 - 265 IS2 - 275 IS3 - IS4 - 280
ES1 good ES2 good ES3 good ES4 280
Someone please tell me I read the chart correct.

 

intake 0.11 mm to 0.15 mm

exhause 0.16 mm to 0.20 mm

sx1 0.13 out of spec ES1 - 260 go to 255
ex 2 .015 mm out of spec ES2 - 270 go to 265
ex 3 0.15 mm out of spec ES3 - 265 go to 260
ex 4 0.10 mm out of spec ES4 - 270 go to 260

swap es 1 into ex 4
swap es 3 to ex 2

you got these correct
in 1 0.04 IS1 - 275 to 265
in 2 0.08 IS2 - 280 to 275
in 3 0.06 IS3 - 280 to 275
in 4 0.08 IS4 - 285to 280

 

I should swap es 3 to es 2?

Glad I checked these. I remember a wise member saying to check and change before I try to sync. Thanks for the help! Not bad though, I only need to order 4 new ones!

 

you can swap the shims to where they will fit

 

When replacing the valve cover gasket, do I need to put RTV on both the head and the cover, or just on the cover?

 

no just the half moons and a little on cover to hold in place.
I use spray gasket the red stuff spray in cup and paint on.

 

Got everything in place and tightened down. Might have stripped two of the outside bolts. Start it tomorrow and see if it leaks. Might need to get some heli coils.

 

Yup, stripped 4 of them. Measured down so I don't drill to far. Eat and get at her.

 

So the holes have been drilled and tapped and cleaned out, but I don't have the tool to insert the coil. Is there anything I can use to get the coils in?

 

do yur helicoils have the tang at the top for the tool to drive them in?

you could cut it off and use the cover bolt to install them as it has the built in "washer".

 

Yes they have the tang. I thought the tang went to the bottom, or am I an idiot. Wait don't answer that.

 

last one i did was for a spark plug tang on top you dont want it to fall inside hole when it snaps off

 

I'll give it a try tomorrow, but hopefully one of the mechanics at work have the tool.

 

That is exactly why you ALWAYS PLUG THE HOLES AND STUFF RAGS IN THE CAM CHAIN TUNNEL

 

tool is just rod with a slot in it and a handel . rod is sized for the heli

 

I got a tool from work. Just about finished.

 

All 4 in. Ran it for a bit and no leaks. I'm going to color tune tomorrow before I sync, or should I sync then color tune? Does it make a difference?

 

color tune then sync.
then check color tune and sync again if it changed

 

I guess there was one thing I didn't clean on the carbs. FFS! Taking them off again later to clean the air mixture screw because the color tune doesn't change no matter which direction I turn the screw.

 

Most probably, it's further down (internal to the carb body) blockage of the pilot fuel circuit...........

http://www.xj4ever.com/inside your carbs.pdf

 

I never took the mixture screws out before. Will I be able to just blow some carb cleaner down there and make it clean?

 

down the pilot air jet, up through the pilot fuel jet (after removing pilot fuel jet and down mixture screw hole.

down air jet cover the hole mixture screw goes in after a few seconds to force cleaner out the little holes in carb throat near butterflys.
then through pilot jet hole. cover air jet hole flush out mixture screw hole, then cover mixture screw hole flush out air jet hole.
also cover both so cleaner comes out tiny throat holes. then flush down from air jet and cover the mixture screw hole so cleaner comes out tiny throat holes. blow out with air

 

I guess I'm taking them apart one more time. I did start tonight on the air screws, and yes I did take the itty bitty washer and o ring out first. What a pain putting them back in. My straight picker worked good though.

 

Everything is back together. From an amature prospective, it was clean. I rechecked the float height, and found that it wasn't up to the line I had drawn on the bowl. Adjusted the tang again on all 4. All seems to be good now. Tried starting her up, and battery was almost dead. Charger on overnight.

 

She started, reved to 4000 and slowly faded and stalled. Checked the plugs, and all are black and sooty. Plug 1 had just a touch of gas on it. Not sure what to do now.

 

Air jets (under the rubber diaphram up top) in reversed positions? The smaller of the 2 air jets is fitted to the CENTER hole.

 

I'll take them off one more time and check that out.

 

How do I tell which is which?

 

Took them out and you are correct. Better check them all since I have the carbs out.

 

there are numbers on the top of them t

 

I switched those two around, checked the others, put the carbs back in and now it won't start. I couldn't see any numbers. Mind you my eyes work better without glasses at close range.

 

Killed the battery again. Frustrated and walked away for tonight. How far out should the screw being the carbs be?

 

So woke up early and read and watched videos and decided to take the carbs out again. Rechecked everything for the floats, and bench synced again. Found that the butterflys don't snap back the way they should. What could be causing that.

 

Misalignment when screwing them back on may cause one to bind on one side against the carb body.