Gas smell in oil

yep your on the right track with the wave washer, and or its not assembled in the correct order. But I take your word for it that it is.

while it is dripping, use your hand and push in on the valve handle and see if it stops dripping. about 30 seconds to just under a minute should be good. if it stops dripping then yes its not sealing tight agnst the flat rubber seal.

 

Yup. That's the problem. It stopped dripping right away. I'm guessing I could ride the bike as long as when I shut it off, I drain the gas. LOL

 

exellent that you got it figured out Glen, whew!...

try bending the wave washer a little more, its ok to put a good bend in it, as you reassemble it, it will flatten out some anyways. dont bend it too far and snap it in half. also contact Info@xj4ever and see if that wave washer is available. you can get the oem part number off www.bikebandit.com.

 

https://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/1982-yamaha-maxim-550-xj550j/o/m147107#sch229728


they use the same petcock....

 

Put a slight bend to the wave washer, and that stopped the drip. I have a clear hose attached to the port to see if there is any gas slowly leaking. I'm going to check in a while, but still going to order a new washer. Thanks for your help!!!!

 

Len has them!

 

Any time Sir, !

 

Read through the petcock rebuild instructions… I believe lemon says something about needing to gently tap the part inside with a hammer to seat it

 

Either I put the wave washer in wrong, or the slight bending I did to it helped. I attached a clear hose on the fuel port and left it for an hour with no drips at all. Thank you for your help!

 

Sorted that's super.

 

Went for ride tonight. Felt great!!! I did notice again that after the bike gets really warmed up, the rpms climb. I had the bike idling at about 1200, and it climbed to 2000. Any idea why that would happen? I know it's not dialed in exactly yet, but that shouldn't be happening.

 

vacume leak, or sucking fuel. so we are not solved on this one...

 

Crap. I have new throttle shaft seals on order, but they won't be here for 2 weeks. I did notice that when I apply the front brake at a stop light, the rpms come down a bit.

 

watch this for a better understanding of why the shaft seals are crucial. watch all descriptions carefully, and pause the video if need be. speciffically watch the throttle fly shaft area and where the mixtures enter from.



hats off to these guys for the demonstration....

 

So for now, I guess I just deal with the idle increase and wait for the throttle shaft seals to arrive, and see what happens after I install them.

 

correct sir... in the meantime, double check that petcock valve is still dry lol

 

Just got back in from checking the oil level. All good, but I'll check again tomorrow.

 

Well they nearly got that right. On mikunis and hitachis the idle mixture screw adjusts fuel and air together (emulsified fuel) - allong with the butterfly position of course. They also missed the very important progression circuit. Also they have the vacuum signal to the top of the diaphragm coming from the inlet manifold - this would be a disaster, for obvious reasons. A really good illustration though - how do you produce such things?
@Glen F. - if you're rpm's rise when the engine gets hotter you may have the idle mixture set a tad weak, so that at cold or not so hot temps the engine is underfuelled. The poor old carb has to battle its own shortcomings as well as oil temps changing, reducing friction, clearances opening up etc.. Try a quarter turn open on each screw, then adjust idle speed down when hot. I'm not saying you don't need throttle shaft seals, but I would try this first..

 

I had the same problem on a car it was a split hose on the PCV valve. High vacuum occurs at idle in the inlet manifold which was sucking in unmetered air via the split hose. This resulted in the injectors supplying more fuel. Revs would increase without me pressing the accelerator pedal. Our bikes don't have fuel injection but vacuum leaks supply additional air. Throttle shaft seals next.

 

Oil level stayed the same over night! One less thing to worry about.

 

I'll give that a try. I was using a color tune, but it's really hard to see.

 

Apples and oranges there, so that argument is moot. A lot easier to adjust idle fuelling than changing throttle shaft seals. Oops, forgot, this is the self flaggelation forum.

 

this video is just a representation of the understanding of how a CV carb functions, its on a HD carb, so of course it will not have the exact same locations of the circuits, however the visual understanding is there, and Im sure @Glen F. got the picture and now better understands how his carb setup will function. I assumed anyone that seen this would understand that its not thier exact carb setup.

 

If you had an "unmetered" air flow into the engine in any area, then the PCM and MAF will not register it, therefore it will not be getting any extra fule. it will run leaner, and have a loping idle. if its a large enough leak, it may not idle at all.

 

Thats exellent Glen!!! progress, one problem at a time!

 

You can tell l am not a mechanic

 

Me neither!!! That's why I'm here for all the expert advice. Sometimes they talk way to advanced for me. Especially when they start with the PCM and MAF. Just guessing, max air flow?

 

lol... close.... mass air flow. pcm = Powertrain control module ecm = engine control module, but these days the PCM and ECM are one in the same. todays modern cars can have up to 70 different controllers... ughhh!

 

Mass air flow sensor and power train control module. I save a lot of money doing my own repairs and enjoy working on cars and motorcycles. Lots of knowledgeable people on here and that's great we can keep learning more.

 

I have been on several forums, and most professionals are timid/cold when another person joins and starts spreading info that they would usually be giving. I left them, as the members were asses, and started a lot of nonsense ranting. it seems realy cool and calm here, and for the most part wrather pleasent and well recieved. So if none of the modders and senior members are not offended, I will continue to inform and assist in any way I can. I'm a 3rd generation mechanic, with a lifetime of knowledge and hands on expierence and Im willing to help whoever I can.. so ask away Glen..

 

Use it in a darkened area, or throw a blanket over the tank/carbs area if doing it during the day. Also, it may have been answered before, but have you done a running (vac) synch on the engine (carbs), and, don't forget that every time you do ANYTHING to adjust the power output of any individual cylinder (this includes valve shim adjustments, mixture screw fiddling, fuel level changes, etc.) you must re-synch, as you've thrown off the engine balance and synch re-sets that balance. An out-of-synch engine can do exactly what you are describing and can be easily mis-diagnosed as for other fundamental cause (such as throttle shaft seals the leak when the carbs warm up).

 

Thanks for the advice Len!

 

If it’s not dialed in, it CAN be happening quite easily..

 

Aaand, it's cheaper and easier to try than a shaft seal job. Just sayin'

 

Took the tank off because I don't have the proper length screwdriver, and was going to sync again. I guess I must have broken a wire off on top of the coil doing that. That one I was able to solder back on, and that was the left coil. On top of the right coil there is the same wire, but it's coated in some black stuff, and it's loose. Not sure if I should scrape the black stuff off and hope it's soldered the same as the other side.

 

In the rest of the civilised world ecu's, pcm's or whatever else thy're called have lambda sensors, either narrow or wideband, that adjust the mixture to maintain sufficient rich/lean to keep the cat working. So they compensate for leaks...

 

Carry on, but don't expect me to but in and correct something I think is not correct. I may be wrong too...

 

This is at best a repair and hope job. Get some gloop and re cover it, but I would be thinking about a replacement.

 

Glen, you can cobble it all you want, its still a cobble...lol I would just replace it, its old as h e double hockey stix anyways. But glad you caught it.

 

Actually it's brand new.

 

an intake only has two sensors to meter it... mas for air intake measurement, and a map, it meters manifold pressure most also have an ambient temp sensor as well, but its not for the intake air. if the maf does not pick it up, it is not getting accounted for period. it throws the map reading off as well, as it cannot pressurize and send correct signals to the pcm. a map sensor or maf alone cannot tell the pcm to "hey man adjust that fuel" it just dont work the way your thinking, there other crucial variables in play as well. But I commend your effort. if you want me to explain this for you in detail, just PM me, as this thread its to assist @Glen F. so I wont do it here

 

so did you tear it out of the end of the coil?

 

sems all you do is butt in and call BS...I just left a thread you have done exactly what you have claimed you dont do...

 

No, but I can wiggle it. I can't keep the bike running the way it is. FML. I broke the soldiered one off but was able to soldier it back on. This one has some sort of black stuff on it. I'll take a picture tomorrow.

 

The attached picture shows the red and white trace wire coming from the coil that is coated in the black stuff.

 

Sorry, should been the one with the grey wire. See attached

 

Looks like the black stuff is a covering. I took it off and both wires are still soldered on. What to check next?

 

the soldering is further into the coil,its internal. not at the edge where it can be seen or where the wires goes in. yes thats a covering for bending protection. the wires are partially molded into the outter casing during manufacture. if you can see the terminals on the back side and wire soldered to them, its a cheaply manufactured part. some coils come with no wires and just have spade terminals (I prefer) but generally, chances are @Glen F. if it never came "all the way out" it's likely still ok. thats "my opinion", so use your best judgement as if you or I am wrong, can leave you stranded.

 

I'm guessing that the grey wires act like ground wires. I checked to make sure there was spark to the plugs and all are good. With the one wire broken off, before I soldered it back on, could I have screwed up some sort of timing, since only 2 cylinders were firing?

 

Timing and timing advance are controlled by the TCI. You cannot screw it up.