LED signal issues

I skimmed through the search and couldn’t find an example of what I’m dealing with. I have an 83 Maxim 550k that I lost power to my rear signals on. It doesn’t seem to get power to the instrument cluster either. I have LEDs in the front signals, LED tail/brake/ stop and rear signals. I installed a CF13 relay and tried and LED EP34 & 35 , new fuses, I tried an LED in the instrument cluster, my battery is good and charged, and I tried a metric diode between the signals and the instrument light. Nothing seems to get power to the rears. I also can’t seem to get enough power to set up a secondary set of mini signals at the front.


Any ideas?

 

do you have a wiring diagram?
what kind of fuses are you using? if oem glass replace the box with inline blade fuse box or individual inline fuses blade style
if you have power to front lights?

cluster lights are powered from main fuse via the ignition switch.
I would start here
Clean and lube the ignition switch

battery supplies main fuse which supplies ignition switch . when turned on it supplies the remaining fuses.
dirty or faulty connections will cause low voltagh/amp to lights.
is bike running when you do this?

clean all connectors

 

ATM fuses in a bus, but I removed the bus and directly wired them inline to remove any issues it may have been causing.
I’ll post a pic of my diagrams in a minute.

My turn signals only operate when the engine is on (headlight too obv) but the tail and brake lights can operate in acc position. My secondary front signals aren’t getting enough power nor are my rears. Even when splicing them into my front ones.

I’m going to review that cleaning of the ignition switch before I post my wiring diagrams.

 

Weirdnesss. That is exctly the opposite problem from what you should be having.
You might pull the seat off and doble check that the pigtails for the rear signals are still connected to the main harness, and that the connections are free of corrosion.

What happens if you replace the LED's in the rear signals with the incandascent bulbs?

 

here is a wiring dia. for signals it is a very simple circuit.


you can see how the indicator light grounds through oppisite bulb.

remove your indicator bulb to take it out of the problem. you do not need it to make circuit work
unplug the circuit canceller you cant use it with led with out some mods.
the bulbs share a connection in the main harness

make sure your using correct colors at the front and rear Dark Green and Chocklet not brown

for blinkers to work voltage goes to flasher (power side) then wire feeds to control (load side of relay)
control switches from left to right side bulbs
key off
do a continuity test from rear dark green wire connector to front connector
same with the chocklet wire.

test the ground continuity from connector to battery .

key on
you can check for voltage at connectors front and rear

 

metric diode install is cutting the 2 wires to indicator. wiring in 2 leads from diode and the single lead to the bulb then other from bulb to ground

 

This is what I’m working from.

 

I tried the diode that way, one lead to chocolate, one to DG off the indicator set up, ground to ground at the lights and nothing.

gonna check with key on continuity from front to back. I think I did it the other day and the right side rear had nothing but makes no sense to me.

 

Notice I edited the post

 

The 550h diagram is the one you want

My drawing is an edited seca diagram it shows how the indicator connects in a maxim.

In your 550h dia. You would cut the main harness side to add metric diode

 

Metric diode needs to connect to bolb first then bulb to ground. One wire to bulb gets diode other wire from bulb to ground

 

So you’re saying to run the diode in full loop (let’s say using Chocolate to Green) at the bulb and then run the ground to ground? I’m still not getting power to the bulb, but I’ll try that wiring again.

Is there a way to just skip the main connection and splice somewhere to get my bike legal and on the road again?

 

I checked the pigtails the other day and I was getting nothing on the left, 7V on the right. I even replaced the connectors and just ran them soldered. I’m gonna check for voltage in a few.

Yeah me and the electrical pixies aren’t friends. I went for a physical recently and the EKG and heart rate monitor machines went berserk on me. The doc asked me if there was some sort of voodoo on me.

 

Even that 7 volts is really low.
I saw that you have an ATM fuseblock on a common ground buss (is that correct?). Without making an entirely new wiring harness that fuse block will not work. The orignal wiring requires fuses to be inline on the hot side of the circuits.


Like this:


Not like this:


Which do you have installed?

 

7 volts is this with bike running?
if not what is battery voltage?

this link shows all photos
Metric Bike Diode Kit | Super Bright LEDs

this is final setup for led lights
cut the dark green wire and chocklet wire in main harness connector to cluster.

connect the pair of wires from metric diode to the main wires 1 lead to each wire . then the single lead end goes to wire in connector and the other connector wire is run to ground.

 

Fuseblock, sorry not buss. But I pulled them and put them in line to avoid problems and rule out the block. It’s the bussman brand one.

Thats how I wired it and nothing man. 7v running. Battery is at like 14.9 running.

 

I’m going to highlight the way I ran my wires on a schematic in a bit. I gotta run out and get color pencils or something.

 

Bottom notes read (DRL) and Secondary Signals Spliced off each signal. As in Red to chocolate, white to ground. Red to DG, white to Ground. Included is a pic of the diode how I pigtailed it in.

 

If the indicator light is not working with that setup pull out the bulb rotated 180°
The LED is a diode. There are some bidirectional lights but most people aren't buying them.