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LED signal issues

Discussion in 'XJ Modifications' started by Berserker, Sep 11, 2021.

  1. Berserker

    Berserker Member

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    I tried flipping and even swapping to another of the same bulb and incandescent. Nothing.
     
  2. Berserker

    Berserker Member

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    Here are the crazy readings with it running that I got. Left side is switch on/right side is not

    Battery: 17.69
    Front turn signals: 3.5/2.5
    Daytime Running Light (spoke mounted LED): 16.23
    Power at main fuse: 15-18v
    Rear signals- Ch side 3.3/.28
    DG side 3.3/.32
    Front brake signal was out now, rear worked fine.

    Is it possible to boost power running a new line from the battery to the switch?
     
  3. Berserker

    Berserker Member

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    Anyone got any input before I try running an additional lead and go kaboom?
     
  4. Rooster53

    Rooster53 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Getting the LED's signals working would be the least of my worries if these voltages are correct. I would verify the meter and if confident look at replacing the voltage regulator or finding out why it is not regulating the AC Generator output.
     
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  5. Berserker

    Berserker Member

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    As far as I can tell the meter is accurate but I’ll retake my battery reading. I know it’s at like 13.9 when off. I figured 17 was high, but my idle is pretty high. I don’t know what limit it’s supposed to be at.
     
  6. Rooster53

    Rooster53 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    The regulator should maintain a maximum output of 14.5 +/-.3 volts with a fully charged battery, so yes up near 18 is a problem.
     
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  7. Berserker

    Berserker Member

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    Awesome. It read near 19 today, DC. So how do I resolve this? Is it just an alternator or just a rectifier problem? Could it be my battery? I haven’t replaced it yet.
     
  8. Rooster53

    Rooster53 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    The regulator is the most likely fault, but make sure the wiring associated with it is in good condition with no corroded or pushed terminals.
     
  9. Berserker

    Berserker Member

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    I’m looking at getting a new Reg/Rec, could you walk me through the testing of it and how to get voltage up to my rear signals/ why only my headlight is coming in right.
     
  10. Berserker

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    Swapped all lights to LED including all indicators, new regulator in. Battery now reads 17v. Still not enough going to rear signals.
     
  11. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    is the 17 volts with key off and bike not running?
     
  12. Berserker

    Berserker Member

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    Last I checked yes. But I’m going to check it again after work before I start up the bike and see. I need to pickup a second multimeter to try and trouble shoot according to the manual.
     
  13. Berserker

    Berserker Member

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    And so the riddle continues. Replaced my 9v battery in the multimeter, tested the dead battery 1.9v, tested the second new battery 9.7V (both Duracell). Then tested the battery on my bike. Here’s what I found:
    Key off: 12.7
    Acc Mode (electrical on): 12.49
    Engine on apron 2k with choke on: 12.58
    Voltage drop when starting: 10.8

    So now I’m stuck thinking it must be my stator or alternator. The manual says this bike is due for both to be changed, and I’m about ready to just give in to both given my weirdness going on.

    Only front flashers working, and last I checked they weren’t even reading at 12v but I’ll get a more accurate number later today now that I know my meter isn’t on the fritz and it was likely just some anomaly.
     
  14. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    low voltage first thing to check is brushes, condition and length and copper rings on rotor
     
  15. Berserker

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    So the three white wires from the alternator are all consistent with each other. But I did have to use the Kohm setting to test it, don’t think that’s right but maybe it is. It came in at 7.5kohm.

    I read the red/brown two wire harness which on mine is red and green braided wire. It came in at 110ohm.

    still haven’t figured out the issue with the turn signals. Everything is converted to LED and still with a diode and soldered in, the turn signal indicator is off. I even cleaned with contact cleaner and then lubed with silicone spray the turn whole left hand control unit. No loose solder joints, and my front main turn signals still work.

    Those only run with the spliced in lead from the headlight low beam running to the red lead on my fork indicators (day time running light), the turn signals are wired (yellow) to the respective chocolate/green connector. And the ground I’m using a lead off the bullet double connector on the original harness.

    Swapped the battery, rectifier, CF13 LED adjustable flasher and all the lights etc. cleaned the contacts and it’s still coming in at 12.49 v sitting, 12.8 running. The turn signals are only getting 7V. I used a second multimeter and it came in a whole digit less (11 flat) but it read all the batteries like that and all three I have came in at 12.8 fresh off the charger.
     
  16. Rooster53

    Rooster53 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    7.5 kohm is way too high. It would be odd that all three indicate that so possible operator error or testing equipment. Be sure you are measuring the wires that go directly to the AC Generator and not the regulator.

    110 ohms is also too high. Do as was suggested and check the brushes / clean copper rings.

    I can't really follow what is said about the turn signals. If you have low voltage it should be a simple process to check input / output of switches / relays to isolate the problem. As for the indicator you mention one diode and you should have two, so not sure what the full story is there.
     
  17. Berserker

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    Getting on that tomorrow. In the mean time, is it possible that the bike might have had one of the fuse leads mixed up causing the voltage situation? IIRC the original bulbs are 8v and they were pretty dim when I first got the bike.
     
  18. Berserker

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    Two diodes? It said to connect one. The picture was a mock up before I soldered it in. I connected to the ground off the speedo led, which of course like all my other indicator LEDs is functional.
     

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