right side engine cover broken

Hi,
I had a mishap on a steel plate in the road which took my bike down... it broke off the right side engine cover (that says Yamaha) and actually broke off a piece of the metal rim that holds that cover on. I have pictures at this link: http://picasaweb.google.com/heydonjulio ... TF8m3kbeqQ

First, do you know what is behind the black rubber circle that this plate was protecting? Second, what do I risk damaging by riding without this cover and Third, any idea on how i can fix this? I'm at a loss. Any help is appreciated

 

Given the position I would say the big end bearing is there. I have no idea if it's ok to ride without the plate. I assume it is there to protect the crank as it did in your mishap.

If you have the pieces you may be able to get a good aluminum welder to repair but I would be real uneasy about what that heat would do to the "bearing" but I'll let the experts have their say.

 

i have an extra one where are u

 

I'm in Chicago... I still have the cover itself but I'm not sure how I'm going to get it back on yet. I'm considering some of that cold weld stuff...says it can bond aluminium like new. I rode the bike all day after this happened and had no problems. In that picture the black circle in the middle is rubber, if that helps identify what might be behind that. I know almost nothing about these engines or how they work so I'm just glad it runs at this point but definitely want to keep it that way

 

I WOULDN'T WANT TO RUN TO LONG WITH OUT IT BUT IF IT'S DRY OUT IT WON'T DO ANY DAMAGE

 

that's kind of what I thought.... and I'm a fair weather rider anyway.... I'm trying to find a schematic or something of that engine...do you know where I can find one online?

 

I have a 550 that has similar damage. A piece of the engine cases was broken and I have used JB weld to hold it in place for 27 years. It's dry under that cover so I would think you should be able to do the same thing. I took the cover off once and since the broken piece is where one of the attaching screws goes in, it broke the piece out. JB weld put it back and it's been fine ever since.

 

JB Weld holds the Universe together!! (more so than duct tape)


but still, get a replacement if possible

 

Fantastic! That's exactly what I was hoping to hear and what i suspected. Since that cover doesn't contact anything, hold anything in place or maintain any type of liquid/air pressure I figured it was simply there to protect the shaft from damage in the event that the bike fell over...which it sure did. I'm going to try the JB tomorrow assuming that my pieces all still line up. Thanks for your post

 

The rubber part is a seal. It just need to be protected to keep it from road debris and drying out. Behind it is oil and the main bearing just as Bill quessed.
You could rough up the inside lip with sandpaper and JB Weld it to meet the cover. Grease the cover so it won't stick to the JB Weld and shape it to fit. Then remove the cover and let the JB set.

 

If you don't own a Dremel Tool ... now would be a good time to update your tool inventory ... you'll be needing it!

You can fabricate those places that broke-off with JB Weld.
The trick is to not have all the JB Weld wind-up on the floor.

Get some aluminum screen.
Duct Tape
Scissors
Masking Take
A dozen Paint mixing sticks.

Make a form out of the Aluminum Screen.
Cut it to follow the contour of the missing case.
Duct Tape it on there good.
Mix the JB and use handy-sized portions of Paint Mixing Sticks to work the JB into the Screen and the inside to secure the JB patch.

Once you have the form filled-in with JB Weld ... keep working the JB into the Screen until it begins to cure.
Forget the outside for awhile and do the Inside.

Form the JB Weld into the Shape you need by using the Dremel and a Carbide Bit.
Grind-out what you don't need and apply fresh JB to where you need it built-up.

Later, peel off the Tape and expose your Form.
Use a MEDIUM Sanding Disc and begin removing the JB squished through the Sceen.
When you see the screen form switch to a finer Disc.

Sand away the Screen.
Put the nicest finish you can muster on the outside.

Go to a Hobby Shop.
Get the little can of spray paint you'll need to touch-up the patch.
Yes. They have Model Paint that matches perfectly.
Like it never happened!

 

Thanks a lot!!!
When my Bob Villa side runs short my MacGyver side takes over.... glad to hear other people are on the same wavelength. I'll try to post the results

 

I'm not sure i've ever seen an engine that clean!!

 

Except maybe yours Blue!

 

Oh jeeze... (blushes)

 

i have the exact same damage to my bike. lost the right side cover plate. been riding it for 2 years without it and i dont think it really matters. might just be me though.

 

Functionally: It doesn't matter.

Cosmetically: It's a Big Deal.

It's a good example for why it's a good idea to have some Case Guards on the Bike ... even if they are only 2-Point Guards.

When the Bike goes over the lower edge of the Engine Case can get rashed right off.
If the Oil Gallery Plug below the Crankcase Cover gets rashed-off, you got Big Trouble.

A "Cheap" 2-Point Case Guard will prevent that damage from happening.
The Case Guard might fold-over and be ruined by the Bike getting laid-down, but the Case Guard will prevent the Oil Gallery Plug from being damaged and save the Lower Case.

 

Hey IkeO,

I don't know about your side cover but thats in nice run you have up on you tube, enjoyed alot!

 

got a quick question.. got the same problem - right side engine casing cracked off so the yics 'cover' won't go on (just like everyone else in this thread)...

was thinking about doing something fancy in that area; is it a big deal if i fill in that whole recess with jb-weld putty?? I want to do a artsy fartsy mosaic in there, i figure if I can fill it up with putty, i can press in my mosaic pieces and it could become part of the bike ;-)

don't know if jb-weld putty would mess with that rubber plug (or whatever it is). and the only 'down-side' i can see other then that is if i have to crack the engine case open. and if thats the case, this bit of jb-weld would be the least of my worries.

thoughts?

josh

 

Josh:

If you are talentned enough to do a mosaic; you can repair that section of the Case with the JB Weld.

Begin by taping some Aluminum Screen to make a foundation for the JB Weld.
Mix small amounts at a time. Spread the product into the Screen after what you have mixed-up begins to tighten but before it "Pulls".

Once the Mix "Pulls" ... ditch it. Mix another batch. Build-up the area a little at a time.
Remove Fuel Tank
Lay bike over on mattress or protective material. (sleeping bag)
Fabricate screen form
Mix Product and fill form.
Use dozens of wooden "Coffee Stir Sticks" to shape filler material.
Discard Stir Sticks as the product starts to stick to the stick.
Also use:
Small "Shur-form" Blade.
Lacquer thinner.

After you finish the sculpture ... you grind or sand the quantity of material that squishes through the screen until the screen is ground-away.
Dremel Tool sand and shape.
Correct little blems with some JB mixed heavy with hardner.

It will come-out as good as you are capable of making it.
Re-create the Case.
Drill, Tap and hang another cover.

 

Honestly i like the thought of embedding a mosaic into it. Its be different and unique. plus i wanted to give my bike a theme (not sure what yet), and i figured i could make the mosaic to fit that theme.

I have another cover, and honestly the breaks aren't too bad that it wouldn't take me more then a few hours to fix and re-do so i could hang the cover (i got the putty, i have a tap-die kit, i have a dremel and all the needed tools/parts).. but i still like this idea, would make the bike stand out a bit and add some customization to it, without going to nuts. ;-)

 

I'm almost ashamed to say, I used a steel putty stick to fix the carbs on my old cb650. It's like that stuff on tv, that's a clay like stick, that you knead to activate. Anyway, it's really thick stuff, and steel gray, like jbweld, but thicker. I put the stuff in a carb, so I know that it is solvent safe. You could probably form a nice thick layer to patch your cover.

BMW airhead riders pretty frequently scrape valve covers through, and the epoxy putty solution is far more common than buying a new valve cover.