gaskets vs. "gasket maker"

Hi, all. Three things (a triple threat):
In my infinite impatience to ride more before the weather turns, does it make a difference if I use "gasket maker" product vs. new gaskets with the silicone sealer for my float bowls? I just (said very proudly) did my first carb cleaning on the weekend and she fired up, but I'm leaking gas out of #4.

I know I also have to change the oil b/c I had a fuel delivery issue (probably need to rebuild the petcock too) and the tank was left on PRI (oops), so I now smell some of that gas in the oil but wondered if I might have done something to make the bowls over-fill and I really didn't smell any gas in the oil before tearing apart the carbs (even though she wouldn't start). I read somewhere on here where the fill line is 1-2 mm below(?) the lip where the bowl connects to the bottom of the carb??? Is there something else I should be checking when I rip them off to put gaskets in? It did seem to run fine (outside of the leak in #4)

So far, I've also bypassed the in-line filter b/c I need a new one of those (can get air through it but gas didn't want to get sucked in by the carbs, even though there was compression).
THANKS

 

Most Sillycone does not Live long around Gasoline.

 

You're better off using new gaskets.

Here's and Old School trick to save you from needing Gaskets every time you invade the Fuel Bowl.

Seal the new Gasket to the Fuel Bowl with RTV Black.
Clean any RTV off the Gasket you accidentally get on the Carb Body side.

Thoroughly clean free of any traces of old Gasket or Sealer from the Carb Body side.
Using an Artists-style Paint Brush ... Apply a thin coat of Marvel Mystery Oil to the whole surface where the Gasket will contact on the base of the Carb Body.

Likewise, apply a very thin coat of MMO to the Bowl Gasket.

The Marvel Oil will allow the Bowl Gasket to form itself to the ridges on the Carb Base making a perfect Fuel Tight Seal.
When the Fuel Bowl needs to be removed, in the future -- for any reason, the RTV will have sealed the Gasket to the Fuel Bowl and the Marvel Oil will have prevented the Gasket from sticking to the Carb Base.

The Gasket will lift right off the Carb Base completely intact allowing you to clean or re-jet without needing to replace a torn Gasket.
Just re-Oil the surfaces, again, when you replace the Fuel Bowl.

 

If you have gas running out with the bike standing the fuel level is too high in the bowl. The gasket really only is to prevent fuel sloshing out when moving.

You can hit the local auto parts store for a sheet of gasket material. Just use an exacto knife and make your own gaskets.

Oh, I really hate RTV silicone. It's almost impossible to clean off when you want it gone.

 

That's why I recommend putting it on the FLAT Surface of the Fuel Bowl and NOT on the base of the Carb.

When you do need to remove it from the Bowl surface; a freshly unwrapped razor blade will do the trick. No nooks and crannies filled with the stuff to need to do a lot of time consuming scraping and picking at it.

 

allrighty, then
What's my checklist for the fuel level being too high in the carb bowl?? Another tear-down?
tks

 

Nope.
You can check them right on the bike.
Buy 10-inches of 1/4" diameter vinyl hose and a right-angle union.
Make yourself a Level Gauge.
2-1/2 Inches of hose. The Right Angle. The rest of the hose.

Put the small-end on the Drain Nipple.
Place the long-end up straight-up.
Open the Drain Screw and watch the Fuel fill the hose.

The Level in the hose should come-up to washer above the Phillips screw holding the Fuel Bowl on Carb.
Press the hose right up against the Carb and see how far up the level goes.

Simple as that!