End of my ropes with this BIKE!

Alright, not that bad but pretty frustrating. I got this bike last year, it ran great for the first 5 months then started acting funny, I garaged it, waited till after winter, dug it out and it was running worse. I have been going at it with this bike all summer, and as of yet no luck, sometimes it runs really well, mostly it doesn't. It doesn't want to run over 6000 rpms, it bogs down and sounds really weird when it gets to 6000 almost exactly on the dot. This summer I took off the carbs, cleaned, synced, messed with them constantly and as of yet no luck, it just seems to get worse! Any ideas where my problem lies. It seems like it has to be carbs but I've been all over them and nothing as of yet, any ideas would be greatly appreciated! Thanks guys. -Ryan

 

Tough one, for sure. Off the top of my head I'm thinking, "Verify float levels."

 

Hadnt really thought about that one yet. Ill use the search function but how would I go about doing that?

 

"It doesn't want to run over 6000 rpms, it bogs down and sounds really weird when it gets to 6000 almost exactly on the dot."

If you don't have a Stock Airbox and are running Individual Pod-style Air Cleaners ... you have to Re-Jet the Carbs to get more Fuel happening.

If not ...

You have some issue preventing Main Fuel Jet regulated flow from getting into the Intake Stream.
That it BOGGS indicates that the Intake Stream is not sufficiently Fueled or the Intake Stream is insufficiently atomized as it enters the Intake Stream.

a) The Main Jets are too small and there isn't enough Fuel to support the Engine accelerating any further.

b) The Emulsion Tube's AIR Metering Ports surrounding the Emulsion Tube are clogged and blocked ... causing a lack of Main AIR to enter the Emulsion Tubes to draw-up and atomize the Fuel Metered into the bottom of the Emulsion Tube to be less than adequate for acceleration AND be NOT atomized ... thereby entering the Intake Stream in a flow of Raw Gas which cannot be readily ignited by the Spark Plugs ... entering the Combustion Chambers closer to a liquid than a mist ... causing the Ignition of the non-atomized Fuel to take far longer than an explosive mist ... bogging-down the Ignition Cycle and failing to allow the Engine to make power.

c) Wrong Main AIR Jets ... causing everything I've mentioned and often "Wet Fouling" the Spark Plugs.

 

One thing I didn't see mentioned......
the early electronic ignition pulse coils re notoriously weak and piss-poor for reliability. I chased down a goofy running problem for a whole summer that was solved by changing the pulse coils, which would open up and short as the bike warmed up.....after exactly fifteen miles; you could set your watch by it!.....taking the bike from running great to miserable in 15 minutes or less. If the carb thing doesn't check out, don't overlook the ignition system.

 

Ok, so I have somethings to look at great! The air filters are stock, and everything else should be as well, Im guessing its a clogged something or something that get whacked out over time and not something that's wrong since it was running right at one time.

I think this is the first thing Im going to have to try to do. I guess its off with the carbs again! If anyone else has any other ideas keep them coming. I have a feeling its a carb thing and it actually gets slightly better after it warms up but it never runs completly right.

 

You have to disassemble both the Top and Bottom of the Carb Body to remove the Emulsion Tubes for Cleaning.
The Emulsion Tubes are held in place by a Flat Washer above the Main Fuel Jet.
Once the Main Fuel Jet and Washer gets removed; the Emulsion Tube is ready to be pressed out of the Carb Body through the Top.

The Carb Top Cover, Diaphragm Piston Return Spring and the Rubber Diaphragm & Piston Assembly must be withdrawn to allow the Emulsion Tube to be forced up and out through the top of the Carb.

I use a Cap Screw fastener with the same thread pitch as the Main Fuel Jet to assist in removing the Emulsion Tube.
Thread the Cap Screw into the Bottom of the Emulsion Tube.
Firmly tap upon the Cap Screw threaded into the Bottom of the Tube.
Drive the Tube out of the Cylindrical Bore in which it is seated.

The Tube itself has an "Hour Glass" type design.
Its Top and Bottom have a larger Outside Diameter than the middle portion where the Metering Ports are drilled straight through it.

Scrub the Outside Diameter until the Brass is shining Clean.
Run a Tool through all of its Metering Ports until you can look and see light coming through the Metering Ports through the ones on its opposite side.
Twist several Pipe Cleaners together and saturate them with Carb Cleaner to scrub the Inside Diameter.

Having this component and the Air Passage connecting it with the Main AIR Jet flushed and clean is vitally important for Mid-Range and Full Throttle operation of the Bike.

(Mikuni-type Emulsion Tube Shown. Hitachi-type Tube not slotted and keyed)

 

Thanks that helps alot, Ill start digging into it tonight. I have to admit when I cleaned the carbs it was a half clean ordeal. Shame on me! Ill have to do it right this time... seems like someone has an "old school" method I should really have followed instead of the "Half a$$" method that I choose! ; )

 

There's no "Cleaning Carbs a Little Bit"

But, that's what you get sometimes, even if you bring them into a Shop.
They clean the Bowls and Jets and close the book; charging for a whole job.

To be, as the Forum says: "Zestfully Clean" ... you have to do "The Whole Nine Yards" or something will pop-up and bite you.

 

.......The air filters are stock

Filters? Are you running pods?

 

No thats a typo, single filter thats still clean.

 

"when you are at the end of your ropes, tie a knot and hold fast!"

sorry, that wont help your bike run but the thread title reminded me of that.