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someone please help me wire this thing!

Discussion in 'XJ Modifications' started by turtlejoint, Oct 12, 2008.

  1. turtlejoint

    turtlejoint Member

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    im almost finished with my LED retrofit and the only thing stopping me is the flasher and the infamous cancelling unit.

    im using a smartblink. i have included at wiring diagram here.

    i do not intend on using the xjs canceller if i dont have to. i am not using the brake option either.

    i was going to run the unit like this:

    orange= would go to the battery using an inline fuse holder
    black= would be grounded
    dark green= would go to the right side signal wires (brown if i remember right)
    light green =would go to the left side signal wires (green if i rembmer right)

    now i just cant figure out where the violet and brown wires on the smartblink are supposed to hook up to. can someone please tell me?? my bike needs to be done by tomorrow morning or else i will have to drive my car to work like some kind of nerd!

    FYI this is all based on a normal 650J harness.
     
  2. SQLGuy

    SQLGuy Well-Known Member

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  3. turtlejoint

    turtlejoint Member

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    hello and thank you paul.

    believe me, i studied your words today as well:

    "Orange - original flasher Brown
    Brown - original canceller Y/R
    Black - original canceller Black
    Light Green - original flasher Br/W

    Everything else unused, except that you'll also need to cut the black that goes to the turn signal switch and connect it to fused +12V instead. "

    but i wasnt sure your directions were complete/correct. you dont list anywhere for the violet and dark green wires to go from out of the smartblink. since the dark green wire feeds one half of the signal, i thought it would be necessary to hook it up somewhere.
     
  4. turtlejoint

    turtlejoint Member

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    i also tried a 3 pin electronic flasher before trying the smartblink. but i couldnt get it to work. looking back on the previous thread, i see now that you said to use a 2 pin flasher. but my stock flasher is 3 pins. did i mess up in getting a 3 pin or did you have a typo in saying 2 pins?
     
  5. SQLGuy

    SQLGuy Well-Known Member

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    Everything else unused meant exactly that. From what I read of the Smartblink and XJ650 schematics, nothing else should need to be connected. Of course, things are easily overlooked when you're working from pure theory, but I would try that and let me know the results... it should get you pretty close at least.

    As for 2-pin, no it's not a typo. What does the 3rd pin go to on the flasher you have? The 2-pin I have simply goes in-line on the "hot" side of things, e.g. +12V supply on one side and the lamps to be flashed on the other side. I would expect the third pin to be for ground, but ...?
     
  6. turtlejoint

    turtlejoint Member

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    AFIK

    all xjs have a 3 pin flasher. at least according to haynes.
     
  7. SQLGuy

    SQLGuy Well-Known Member

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    Yes, they do; but that's the stock flasher which is designed to work with the canceller circuit - and, as we've already discussed at length, will not work with LED's unless you want to add load resistors.

    Are you talking about a stock flasher now or an aftermarket one? If you're talking about an aftermarket one, then the connections of the three pins have very little to do with the connections of the three pins on the stock one.

    As to your sort of question about why the dark green doesn't get connected, it's because in the XJ's the handlebar switch determines which turn signal is flashed. The flasher only gets a signal to flash or not to flash. So, the directions I gave you use one side of the Smartblink and leave the other side unused.
     
  8. turtlejoint

    turtlejoint Member

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    I was referring to a 3pin (electronic) aftermarket flasher that i picked up at the parts store. it didnt work for (what are now) obvious reasons. I am going to take it back and swap it for a 2 pin flasher. which two connections should i bridge with the 2 pin (assuming that i make some wire extensions with spade connectors on the ends.

    if that doesnt work, ill try the smartblink as that will require more cuts to the wiring.

    thanks a ton Paul.
     
  9. SQLGuy

    SQLGuy Well-Known Member

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    OK. The two-pin would connect to the original flasher's brown and brown/white wires.
     
  10. turtlejoint

    turtlejoint Member

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    update:

    i went home at lunch and swapped the 3pin flasher for a 2pin flasher and it didnt help at all.

    as of now (regardless of which flasher i have in stock or otherwise) when i hit the turn signal switch in either direction, all 4 turn light up but dont really flash. when i center the turn switch all 4 turn off.

    the 2 pin behaved similarly where when i turn on the turn signal, all 4 flashed like hazard/warning lamps.

    looks like i will be giving the smartblink a shot tonight.

    where you said "you'll also need to cut the black that goes to the turn signal switch and connect it to fused +12V instead"

    should i cut into this in the headlight bucket and run it to the battery thru a inline fuse holder? how many amps would you recommend on the fuse?

    thanks again Paul!
     
  11. SQLGuy

    SQLGuy Well-Known Member

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    If all four of your lights are turning on when your switch is set to either side, then you either have a bad switch, or, more likely, your wiring has already been (incorrectly) modified.

    If you look at the XJ650 schematic, you'll see that the left and right sides have separate wiring from the switch; they should not be connected together. You're going to need to find and correct this problem before you can get any flasher to work.

    If you do end up going with Smartblink, after fixing the current problem, a 5A fuse should be sufficient for the supply to the handlebar switch.

    Paul
     
  12. turtlejoint

    turtlejoint Member

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    dont the turn signals share a ground on the rear end? the PO had done a hack job on the harness where the brake light and turn signals were concerned. prior to messing with this led conversion the turn signals worked fine. when i was taking things apart, i made a new "split off of the black ground wire to feed the right and left sides. this was how it was set up before i just cleaned it up a little.
     
  13. SQLGuy

    SQLGuy Well-Known Member

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    Yes, they share ground, but 12 volt supply goes through the flasher (where it becomes flashing 12 volts) and back to the handlebar switch, which then routes it either to the left or right side turn signals. You should not be able to flash left AND right side at the same time.
     
  14. turtlejoint

    turtlejoint Member

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    well i tried all of your suggestions. i even REWIRED the whole bike with a harness i got off of ebay and it behaves the same. i believe my canceller may be fried. frankly i think im just going to find a way to forgo the stock wiring all together. what i need to figure out is which wires coming out of the l/r switch are 12v+. im hoping there is a seperate sender for the left and right sides. if i can narrow that down, i think i may be home free.
     
  15. SQLGuy

    SQLGuy Well-Known Member

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    The canceller has nothing to do with this. The most likely problem is the handlebar switch itself, from what you're describing.

    Again: it's the handlebar switch that switches 12V (after the flasher) to the left or right signals.

    The whole sequence is:

    12V from battery
    through fuse
    through ignition switch
    through flasher
    through handlebar switch
    to left OR right turn signals (or neither, if the switch is pushed in)
    to ground

    Do you have a multimeter? If not, get one.


    -------------------------------------------------------

    Update: I am looking at the XJ650 schematics now:

    Brown/White from the flasher runs to the handlebar switch - this is the 12V supply that pulses on and off to flash the turn signals.

    This line is connected to Dark Brown from the handlebar switch when set to left, and to Dark Green when set to right. Dark Green and Dark Brown should NOT be connected together. With a multimeter, and with the bulbs out of the turn signals on one side, you should read open between Dark Green and Dark Brown. With bulbs in, you should read about 6 Ohms.

    From what you're describing, Dark Brown and Dark Green ARE connected together somewhere, or you have a non-original turn signal switch.
     
  16. turtlejoint

    turtlejoint Member

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    ok, i think we are narrowing it down. i found a thread that might help make sense of how this could integrate. however, im not sure how similar the virago wiring is to an xj.

    a virago using smartblink

    i think maybe this guy nailed it.
     
  17. jswag5

    jswag5 Member

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    well, when i went to leds on my maxim i bypassed the original flashers and cancelling unit, so now you have to cancell the signal manually, i took the wires from the switch and brought them each back to an individual flasher for left, and one for right(2 2-pole flashers).. the amp draw wasnt enough for the flashers to work properly so i had to wire in a standard 2 way bulb, on element for left, and one for right, then i dropped the bulb down into the airbos opening to protect the bulb and keep it cool. in this conversion i lost the stock turn signal indicator, so i jumpered of the front turn signals and mounted 2 small bolt style lights next to the key switch, one for left and one for right. If you want i can get you a few pics tommorow.
     
  18. turtlejoint

    turtlejoint Member

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    ok this just doesnt make and @#$@#ing sense

    so per Paul's suggestion i replaced my switch with a brand new one. i wired the outputs of the switch to the inputs on the smartblink and the outputs of the smartblink to the wires leading to the turn signals. once again, all 4 led turn signals would flash regardless of which direction i would push.

    this is all through a brand new harness and switch the original flasher relay and canceller were not plugged in so they can be ruled out as the problem. i am truly at a loss as to how this could be happening. could it be something like having the LEDs wired backwards and somehow the common ground causes them to flash? i dont know enough about electronics to make that guess. i thought that maybe they need so little current to light up, that it could be that current is "spilling over" or something.

    i just dont get it. my bike has been illegal to drive for almost 2 weeks just because i wanted to switch to LED signals. this sucks, im jonesing to ride!

    HHHHHHEEEEEEELLLLLLLPPPP!
     
  19. SQLGuy

    SQLGuy Well-Known Member

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    No. I said to wire the outputs of Smartblink to the inputs of the switch. From there things go to the turn signals.

    Please post:

    a) Any pictures you can of original connectors and the switch itself
    b) Colors of the wires available at the flasher connector(s) and at the handlebar switch

    BTW, do you have a multi-meter?

    Thanks,
    Paul
     
  20. turtlejoint

    turtlejoint Member

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    SUCCESS!

    ok so the easy way to do this is to just bypass the portion of the harness that runs the turn signals.

    Ill try to post pics if my g/f didnt take the digi cam with her.

    basically, run the dark green and brown wires that come out of the switch and run those to the brown and violet (input) wires coming from the smart blink.

    then, run the light and dark green wires from the smartblink to NEW wires that go to the front and rear signals.

    run a fused lead to the battery from the orange wire on the smartblink and ground where you want.

    with the stock xj switch, the flashers will operate for 30 seconds (a little too long for my taste). youll have to turn on your signal and then pop it back into the center position or else the flasher will try to continue power up.

    I have another brand new left hand assembly that has a slightly different switch that allowed me to turn off the signal whenever i wanted. thing is, it doesnt have a choke control on it, so i would have to somehow relocate my choke.

    while its not perfect, it works and my new turn signals are really cool looking and bright.

    the new tail light (which installed without even drilling a hole) is the shiznit too.

    for those thinking about using a smartblink, it will not fit in the headlight bucket. origninally i had it mounted there but it was way too crowded there so i will be relocating it under the seat. ill also be doing a hid conversion and the ballast(s) will sit next to it.

    thanks for all your help.
     

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