alternator brush screws

Took off the cap for the alternator to check the brushes for the first time. Seemed like the only way to check the brushes was to unscrew the two mounting screws, which stripped as soon as I tried them. Now I'm debating - should I use the easy-out-bit drill method to get these screws out? I'm envisioning gobs of cutting oil and chips going every where, causing problems.

Every bolt and screw on this bike is frozen, understandably (sat in someone's barn for ten years). Darn it.

 

There should be wear marks on the brushes just a couple millimeters from the holding plate. Unless your brushes are too short..........

If you don't have an impact driver - get one. It's essential with these old screws.

If an impact driver doesn't get them I'd consider drilling the heads off. Then use locking pliers to grip them and apply some heat to the bosses they screw into. They should come pretty easy with heat.

 

You need to do two things ... right away!

First, ... Get a Workshop Manual for your Bike.

Second, ... Go to Sears. Tool Dept. Buy a Hand Impact Tool. You'll be NEEDING it ... a whole lot!

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947641000P

 

Got a workshop manual, haynes. Have been using it intensely for a few months. Also have impact tools.

As for heating - could you explain the technique? Got an oxyaceltylene setup available, some welding tips and and a rosebud, think I have some propane gear around too.

My main worry is working so close to what seems like sensitive parts of the bike with a heat source. Copper wiring, plastic parts, etc. Same for the impact wrench - how brittle are these mounting plates and covers? Guess there's only one way to find out.

 

If you drill the heads off the screws the brushes and the holder will come out. Then you just have the cover with the screws in it.

I've pulled similar screws out of a Venture stator cover using a propane torch for heat.

I've used oxy-acetelyne with a #3 tip for carb holder screws, manifold studs and starter bolts on an XJ. I make the smallest, hottest flame I can and keep it moving. I did those this way because heating a large area would have been a problem (setting carb holders or gaskets on fire) and there is a lot of heat sink on those areas.

Since the alternator cover has little thermal mass I'd go with propane. Much less likely to burn up the boss the screw is in.

 

Or while you're at Sears pick up one of those nifty Craftsman two-ended screw extractor sets for small screws and bolts. Worked marvelously on frozen/stripped master cylinder screws...

 

Before I'd go the heat route ... I'd improvise with the Impact.
You could get lucky.

Dremel a Slot on the Screw Head that will give you some purchase for the Large Standard Screwdriver Tip that comes with the Hand-held Impact Tool.

One or two good, solid shots with the Impact Tool is going to walk those Fasteners right out of there.

Take the out.
Throw them away.
A couple of New Screws and you vill beh bagg hinn bidd-nezz!
Few-no-wadd-eye-sane!

 

ive seen the new nut and bolt sets too to replace them all. although ive just been going to the hardware store alot, i do like the ez out, wish i had a torch sometimes.

 

Well, I broke out the impact wrench, but my bits were ill-fitted, and I didn't feel like much time with the dremel. I also was too lazy to wheel the welding cart over. So I used the extracter/"easy-out" bit, and kept everything very, very clean. Surrounded the screws with pieces of rag to catch oil and metal bits, just used little dabs of cutting oil as I went. Out they came.

I'd like to keep that from happening again - anyone know if they sell allenhead bolts that small? I think I bought some from Chacal that size for the carbs a while ago...

 

You can get Allen Cap Screws to fit in there.
A well stocked Hardware Store with a Metric Fasteners Section will have them.