oil filter bolt ?replacement?

ok so i've only had the bike a week or two and haven't rode it yet. drained the oil and went to change the filter and can't get that bolt out. now i'm not sure how i'm gonna get it out since a 12mm rounded it off. but i'm sure the bolt won't survive. anybody know a good trick to getting these out and where i can get a new one?

 

There is a spring that keeps tension on that bolt. I've read of people cutting the shoulder off the bolt, releasing the tension. Good luck...

 

I'm pretty sure Chacal has new ones.
To get it out Visegrips?
Others as stated have cut the shoulder off.

 

Ya know, I don't know what the heck it is in human nature that drives almost every hamfisted twit that ever got his hands on one of these to tighten that bolt ungodly tight. I would go buy a "damaged bolt socket" (cool thing to have anyway, it's a socket full of pins that push out of the way and the others grip the head no matter what actual shape it is) and try an air wrench, it worked for me. Then when you reinstall with the new one, tighten ONLY to the specified torque (metric torque value is CAST INTO the cover.) Note: When you order the new bolt assembly from chacal, order the WASHER that goes between the spring and the filter itself. Almost without exception, these go missing early in the bike's life, I'll bet yours is gone too. Oh, and Fram filters come with both o-rings.

 

I bought one of these thought it would be great.
The diameter is huge, any nut, bolt that's not sticking out or in a tight spot it just won't fit.
For the oil filter bolt it should be perfect.
Unless it won't fit down between the vains on the filter cover.

 

I had to free my rounded-off oil filer bolt earlier this year. It took a Craftsman bolt extractor socket, 2' pipe slipped over the ratchet, and an extra pair of hands to hold the socket in position. Remove the exhaust before you try to remove it, much easier. I'd been trying for weeks to remove it before I finally just got the extractor; so rewarding!

And when installing the new oil filer bolt, you really don't need much torque to it..

 

The bolt "stands proud" of the housing, it will work. You can use a very large breaker bar but if you have access to air tools use an impact. It will be off there in seconds. I agree that those "damaged bolt" sockets have limited use, but when they CAN be used they work wonders.

 

Actually, there is not a spring that puts tension on the bolt; the internal spring puts some tension (not much) on the oil filter Element, to help keep it in place. The spring does contact the inside of the finned cover, so in effect, that is similar to putting tension on the bolt, but it's not much tension anyway.

Yes, I do have replacement bolts (it's also the filter pressure bypass valve) and the factory spec is to torque it down to 11 ft-lbs........which isn't much!

I also offer a nifty spin-on (automotive can filter) conversion kit that replaces the original element and cover and bolt so that you never risk having to go through this horrible procedure again! Plus it does a better job of filtering the oil, and looks really neat, too.

 

Good to know.
When I looked down inside the bolt I wondered what the pin and spring were for.

 

Chacal,
How much for the spin-on conversion kit? I've been contemplating putting one on my scoot for some time now. >PD<

 

I was disappointed when I found the same evidence of idiocy left by the previous owner of my 550.
I like to resolve problems right now, so I filed two opposite sides flat and put an adjustable wrench on it, worked! It takes a 10mm wrench now. Because the housing uses an O ring, it doesn't need much torque to seal.
I'm leaving it this way instead of paying $50 for a new bolt.

 

PainterD----you've got a PM!

Proto----the new bolts aren't anywhere near $50!! The reproduction bypass valve/cover bolt (with a nice, big, juicy 17mm hex head) is only $14.95 plus shipping!!

 

Why does it filter better, because of more surface area?

 

Correct. Plus you can get (supposedly) high-quality filter media in some of the premium can filters (Amsoil, etc.) than in the OEM style filter elements.

 

Len, I was counting on you to come up with a better price. That $50 comes from BikeBandidt.

 

Bike Bandit- - - One Arm Bandit- - - I get it now, they steal from you.

 

I paid $50 at my local dealer before I found this forum and my new best bud Chacal

 

Bike Bandit isn't bad, I've bought riding apparel and the occasional aftermarket bit from them if Len doesn't carry it. They simply don't do any sort of volume in OE replacement parts so you end up paying top $$$.

 

I had the same issue. The easiest solution is to grind the head off. The cover will come off over the bolt. Make sure not to lose track of the spring inside. The bolt should be able to come loose just by using your fingers.

As for a replacement I would by aftermarket. For one it is cheaper and number 2 the bolt is bigger. The one I got has a 16 mm head on it. I am pretty sure that it won't strip now that is has a bigger head on it. I think I got mine for about 15 dollars. Good luck!

 

EMGO make a replacement bolt that has a much larger head.... and I paid $16 Cdn for it.... win/win

 

Have you got the bolt out yet? I was going to suggest a peripheral drive ring spanner such as a Metrinch or a Kinchrome. These grip the flats of the bolt head, instead of the points, and they work with damaged bolt heads. I have had some success with these types of tools in getting rounded or damaged bolts undone.

It is a problem with some PO's who have never been introduced to a torque wrench. That and they don't realise that a bolt into an alloy casting should never be torqued down as much as one into a steel plate.

 

I think I'm gonna move to Australia just for the XJ900s. DAMMIT.