a/c generator question

85 xj700 maxim

I have a question. I am in the process of swapping engines. The replacement engine had the wires cut to the generator. Should I exchange generators or should I splice the wires?

I really don't want to exchange that entire assembly and deal with the hassle of pulling the rotor and all.

 

I would say to just splice the wires -- just make sure to do it properly, with a good, well soldered Western Union joint or similar, and covered with a layer or two of heat shrink tubing. Will work just fine.

 

You can splice in but for what it is worth, you should be able to swap assemblies easily without cutting anything. And pulling the rotor is not a terribly hard thing to do. In fact it is rather easy. You need a M16x1.50 bolt and you are golden.
Just my two cents.

 

Yeah, thanks Robert. I discovered that the bundle and cover were separate and that all connecting wires could be removed without even touching the rotor.
Right now, I've got the swapper engine and original electrical hooked back up, but now it appears that the engine may be seized. I cant get the back tire to spin in 5th. Ive tried popping the clutch on an incline. Im about to add some marvel mystery and let that soak awhile. By the way, how should I go about turning the crankshaft manually?

 

19mm wrench on the left (ignition) end if you want to turn it directly just be careful not to bash the pickups.

 

Will turning the generator accomplish the same thing? The screws holding the cover on the ignition side are all ready in very poor shape. I would prefer to leave them alone, if I can turn the engine in any other way.

 

you might be able to turn it over with compressed air

fill the cylinder in the combustion cycle with a charge just strong enough to get it to turn

it would be hard to get it to line up with a mark though

 

Turtle, thanks for the suggestion, but I think that compressed air would only work if the valves are closed. I'm hoping that some marvel and some patience will break her free.

 

The main thing with removing those screws is that you need a #3 Philips. A #2 will only tear them up. If they're too badly damaged to remove with a #3, I'd say to remove them by any means neccessary (e.g. slotting them with a dremel and using a flat impact driver, or drilling them out and using an EZ-out). Suitable replacements should be available from any real hardware store (ACE, Tru-Value, etc).

Having access to that crank end is pretty useful, and its probably the best place to apply some torque to see how seized the engine is.

 

I used the Marvel Mystery method myself. Soak and rotate by hand for a few days. It worked.

 

I'm actually a tad embarrassed. I popped the buggered up screws for the cover quite easily with an impact driver. Just a tap and they were loose, and I have a replacement cover...And just a bit of torque turned the engine right over. I gave it a couple days of turning by hand. We'll see tomorrow if this beast will come back to life.
Thanks for all the help so far.