Flat out no power at all

Ok today was my day off again and only day to work on the bike today i did this to my bike
switched out the break lever box? dont know that name but it holds the DOT3
switched the tank and the front fender and the rear fender
pulled the front brake lines and cleaned them out
put on new turn signals only 3 of them work hmmm
and finly pulled the carbs for the 3rd time

well while this was all going on so smoothly i finely pulled the carbs to clean them out then cleaned them out good goody and boom reinstalled them went to fire up the bike no power what so ever

i tested the starter circuit works fine i changed out the fuse box with a ATO or AFO what ever it is called earlier last week works great looks great so i brought my testers out and the starter circuit has power to it at the right and left side of the fuse but the other three which is head lamp lights and turn sigs and the other fuse which i cant recall what it does and there is no power to the right side of the fuse nor the left side of the fuse nothing so i looked at all the wiring and i cant find anything wrong the battery charge is full all the connections are connected everything looks great but no power

 

Your brake master cylinder (filled with DOT3) is on the right side, so is your starter button. I would look at the right hand control first. Did something happen to it when you removed it? The bike would fire up before you did the work, chances are you disconnected something while working on it. Look for the easy answer first.

 

i checked that and last night i was so tired that i new the name for the master cylinder i just could not think of it i checked the starter switch but i get no power to anything at all except what i stated above

 

Can you jump the starter solenoid?

 

yes i can

 

Have you got a picture of that fuse board? it's not one of those with a common live is it?

 

Steve, The major electrical work that I have done is on my Suzuki. I don't know the particulars of XJ or YX? quite as well but I'm sure we can figure this out. Without the diagram in front of me I may make a few wrong assumptions.

The battery is fully charged and the contacts are good. Main switch lets power through and neutral light comes on. It also sends it into the right hand control. Then we press the momentary start switch, which activates the starter relay, which completes the circuit to the starter motor, and we have power.
Does this sound right?
I realize I have over simplified a bit, but....
If the main switch tests good, the neutral switch works, the start button (already tested)works, and the kill switch isn't flipped or damaged internally, you should get power to the starter relay. And if the relay works, your freshly cleaned carbs get to do their job.

So the main fuse gets power from the battery and sends it on to the main switch. That switch, when opened sends the power back to the fuse box through the other three fuses.... I'm pretty sure the third fuse you mentioned is for the ignition.
In your first post you said the starter curcuit fuse has power to it. Am I just calling it by a different name? (main 30 amp)
If we are talking about the same thing, then it should always have power to it, where as the other three fuses only get power once the key is turned. The ignition fuse (10 amp) needs to get power to allow the starter button to work. So no power at the fuses from the Brown? wire means no power to the starter. No power at the 10amp fuses means bad main switch or bad connection from the switch to the fuse block.
I'm a little confused by your original post. You mention that 3 turn signals work, everything I just wrote is crap if they still work, but if nothing works, no power to anything, then....
As wizard says a pic or a copy of the diagram would help.

I hope somebody will chime in to tell me if I need to find a new hobby or if we're on the right track.

 

I say a terminal on the fuse panel that 'looks' OK. Do a continuity check from one side of the fuse block to the other testing the wires, not the crimped ends

 

What yamaman suggests is a good idea, but I think it's even somewhat simpler than that.

The control lead to the starter solenoid comes from the start button on the handlebar. The control lead should be at 0V normally, and 12V when the starter button is pressed.

If you get 12V when the button is pressed, your starter solenoid is likely shot.

If you don't get 12V when the button is pressed, you most likely damaged something in the starter button - possibly just killing off a button already on its way out - while working on the brakes. Take it apart and look for loose wiring, corroded contacts, etc. Check for continuity in the wires from the starter switch to the connector.

It could also be a problem with your kill switch. Same control cluster, and same effect if it's broken.

EDIT: This all assumes that "no power" means "bike won't start." If you really mean "no electricity to anything" then you need to check the main fuse and the ignition switch. The tail light should be your "check" circuit. The tail light should come on even if pretty much everything else is broken. Check that the tail light itself works by connecting it directly to the battery.

 

Hey Rhys...........I just sent you an e-mail............take a peak please!

 

so far everything check out but no power i taped in to the wiring from the fuse panel and jumped it with the battery and it works but if i plug every thing back in it does not work there is no shorts any where

 

Actually, you have an open circuit, not a short circuit. There's a break in the lead somewhere between the main fuse and the battery. It could be in the ignition switch. I would short across that next.

 

all right i found the problem out whew it was a wire that came un plugged when i removed the fuel tank and it fell out of the wiring harness and it was kinda corroded it was the wire to the key switch to turn on the bike bike runs now but back to square one the first time 2 of the carbs were flooding out because of the float was sticking uhg so i removed them cleaned them up and i had a little leak from the fuel rail cleaned them up now i have 3 floats stuck uhhhhg

 

Good Lord!

Rhys introduces Steve to the period key. <-- there it is

It's just down and to the right from the L key. Try it sometime and see if it still works.

 

hahahahaha you know what? i failed keyboarding in HS. The funny thing is that i have been repairing computers since i was 10, and still i hunt an peck the keyboard

but back to subject i have cleaned and cleaned and cleaned the carbs that the queen of England would eat off of them and my floats are still sticking any ideas

 

Keyboarding takes practice and patience. The practice part is obvious. The patience part has to do with making yourself go back and correct your mistakes every time. Sometimes, you just have to slow down and not type anything until you know where your fingers are going to go next. It slows you down at first, but after a while, you can type as fast as those fakers in the movies. (They just bang randomly on keys. If you watch their fingers you can tell.)

As for the carbs, those and the engine itself are the parts of the bike that I haven't personally opened yet (transmission included). That's probably coming soon, though, since the 750's carbs almost assuredly need to be scoured. That bike hasn't run in 10 years. What are the odds it starts right up?

 

They might just need to be adjusted... overflowing are they ?

 

hey i did a brain storm. I found out the problem. i need to use a 2000 grit paper with water to get the float pin a little smaller is that a good idea? i have extra float pins just in case off of the other carb.s but i know that i dont need to take much off at all am i right or does it matter? another thing tho how do i measure the float hight? what tools do i need? so i can go buy them