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New 750 SECA Owner, with a few questions.

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by Brian750R, Jan 31, 2006.

  1. Brian750R

    Brian750R Member

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    I just purchased my first bike, an '81 XJ750R SECA for $775 with 16-17K miles on it. I already did a fair amount of work on it, including lubing all cables, and getting it running again. I know it hasnt run in atleast a year if not 2 or more. So i am going to run it with some carbcleaner in the first few tanks. and i would like to do an oil/Filter change ASAP so i can stop pumping that old sludge through the engine. and i dont have a manual... yet. i did send out a check for the XJ CD but i havemnt recieved it yet so...

    1) what oil would you run in this bike for the winter/spring. so like 10-45°F (ill be doing a change before summer anyways)

    2) What oil filter does a 750 SECA use?

    3) anyone got one of those spin-on oil adapters? and are they worth it?

    4) anything else you guys would recomend doing to make sure things are in their best working order, since this bike has beens itting for so long? (the carb actually hasnt been sitting as long as the rest of this bike has but i figure it couldnt hurt to give it a little cleaner, and im planning on syncing it in the future after i take my MSF course)
     
  2. CTSommers

    CTSommers Member

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    Brian take a look at www.denniskirk.com under metric bike for oil filters and oil. They have great prices. The Haynes manual says to use 10w/30 motorcycle oil for ambient temperatures up to 59F and 20w/40 down to 41F. I use 10w/40 for my bike.
     
  3. Brian750R

    Brian750R Member

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    thanks for the tip off

    so anyone got one of those spin-on oil adapters?
     
  4. woot

    woot Active Member

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    There is a spin on adapter available - was posted not too long ago here...

    It's a few bucks - pretty reasonable actually. The advantage? For people putting big miles on the spin-on's are cheaper. The real advantage is for people touring - it's a lot easier to find a spin-on in a gas stop and do a REALLY fast and pretty clean oil change on the road. No need for a bunch of wrenches and rags - twist it off, dump it into the shops oil barrel. Spin on a new one, fill the oil and off to the races.

    If I'm doing big miles this summer I'll be getting one. Doing oil changes on the road isn't all that fun.
     
  5. secaman

    secaman Member

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    whats the difference between 20w-40 and 20w-50?

    i know the manual says 20w-40,

    but what if u use 20w-50?

    is it bad?? :roll:
     
  6. Altus

    Altus Active Member

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    Nope - the viscosity ranges really only apply to your riding preference, and what weather you live in. In short, 20w-40 / 50 are nearly identical - some changes in formulation/chemistry that's all.

    All you REALLY need to be aware of is DO NOT USE "ENERGY CONSERVING" OIL!

    Sorry for shouting - it's that important. "Energy Conserving" oils have additives in them called Friction Modifiers to make the oil more 'slippery'. This is the proverbial "Bad Thing" when you have a wet clutch. This is what causes clutch slippage using modern oils.

    Check the symbols on the container - if it says "Energy Conserving" it's no good. Quite a few people go with diesel specific oils for this reason - no friction modifiers.
     
  7. secaman

    secaman Member

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    ok thx a lot
    i couldnt find 20w-40 around here!!

    so i used 20w-50 and was just wondrering.
    anyway i inted to change soo so noo biggie!
     
  8. Brian750R

    Brian750R Member

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    awesome, thanks everyone for all the good advice. thanks woot, it sounds like i wont be needing that adaptor for a few months till i get comfortable riding.
     

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