valve shim replacement questions

hey all. just got into my valves today and checked the clearances.

82 xj750 YICS motor.

1. Intake: .13-.15mm Exhaust: .38-.40
2. In: .08-.10 Ex: .13-.15
3. In: .08-.10 Ex: .15-.18
4. In: .08-.10 Ex: .08-.10

I have zero experience with valves, but these seem to be all over the place

exhaust on cyl. 1 is super loose, exhaust on 4 super tight.

is this normal?

also, is there a tool i can jury rig/make properly to get these shims out? I'd order chacal's but I'd rather get all my parts at once (need idle mix screws, etc.)

 

Some guys use a large zip tie, You turn the engine over and you can see the valve open through the spark plug hole. You bend the zip tie and stick (the big end) it in the valve and move the engine so the valve is held open with the end of the zip tie. Remove the shim and see what number is on the back. You should have a valve shim chart to see what you need. Chacal has shims . Here is where a guy had a hand full of used shims for checking purposes would be great to double check before ordering the new ones.

 

cold motor,
intake .11 to .15mm
exhaust .16 to .20mm
so you're out of spec on most of them.
as for the extra loose ex on #1 something might be going on, someone with more experienced will hopefully chime in.
You can make a tool, I didn't find it on the search function, but i know its out there. You use a couple of zip ties. The head of the tie makes contact between the piston and valve, it holds the vavle open, and you pull the shim out. I've heard the zipties can fracture leaving little bits of plastic behind. So if you go this route, take care.

 

it would seem that MN-Maxims types much faster than I do...

 

haha @ desertrat.

so am i sticking the big end of the zip tie thru the spark plug hole or under the cam lobe? im guessing in the plug hole, but this is just a guess.

I'll have to take a look once it's light out again. need to get some better lighting in my garage

 

In regard to your original questions:

Normal? How many miles since it was done?

They ALL look tight to me, except #3 exhaust.

Unless there is a chunk of carbon stuck under the #1 exhaust valve's seat you may have a problem there. If it was running as tight as #4 it could have burnt and not be seating properly. Or you might have a broken or collapsed valve spring. Or an incompetent PO used the waay wrong shim before you came along.

If you insist on the "jam a foriegn object down the hole" method of holding the valve open, a piece of #12 insulated wire will work too, and have less chance of leaving debris behind. You put a kink in it, and thru the spark plug hole, hook it behind the edge of the valve to hold it open.

I hate to be the one to say this, but the situation with the #1 exhaust valve MAY involve pulling the head (or at least the exhaust cam) to resolve.

One last note, you've already said it: Better lighting. My kids complain that my garage is as bright as an operating room. IT IS. You can get cheap 4' flourescent fixtures, with bulbs, for less than $10 at Meijer's or WallyWorld.

 

The zip tie thing works really well. Palmer650 and myself did it this past weekend on his bike. Worked like a charm after we got used to it.

 

I'd compression check that engine. If you've got a problem at the valve face on the #4 exhaust the compression check should show that.

Have a look at the cam lobe on #4 exhaust. Is it wearing?

If that all looks good, double check your measurements to be sure.

I have a buddy that just used the #12 wire valve holder on a SECAII. He said by the 8th valve the insulation on the end was about shot. I think you should be not as cheap as him and cut 1/4" off your wire half way through the job :wink:

 

I agree a compression check is in order. If he has access to a leak down tester that would be better. That would tell the complete story on the condition of the engine.

Was the bike running ok before you started workingon it ? The valve train must have been ticking with that loose valve. The thing is you never know what the PO did. It could be just the wrong shim in there. Lets hope thats all it is.

 

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=16339.html

talk about good timing

 

i actually have never had this motor running. I bought it to replace the dead old one (it got a compression of about 50-75 psi on all four).

this new one was tested on 8.29.08, and was found to have 140psi on all cylinders and to run. 10,000 miles approx.

im hoping the shim on 1exhaust is just way wrong. i don't really want to pull the head... ive already dumped so much money into this beast.

i thought i screwed up checking 1exhaust, so i rechecked many many times.... it's really loose.

as far as the lighting... i use a superbright led headlamp for now, but those shop lights might be a good idea. thing is i rent so i don't like paying for improvements to someone else's house. maybe i can get it taken off my rent. thanks for all the help. I'll update once i figure out wtf is wrong with 1exhaust.

pray i don't have to pull the head!!!

 

Use eye hooks and chains to suspend the lights.
Wire an outlet from any light switch so you can plug them in/ turn them on.
Take it all with you when you move out.

If you lack the ability to wire an outlet, you can run a heavyduty extention cord to the lights.
If you have an exsisting bulb light, through a bulb to socket converter in the socket, bam you're wired to a switch, good to go.

 

Damn, Hound, you're spooky. You just described the lighting arrangement in my tiny rented 1-car attached garage to a T. That is EXACTLY what I did, three cheap flourescent fixtures "cheatered" into the light sockets but keeping the 100W incandescent bulbs as well. And they're going with me, as is my "wall mounted" propane heater.