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gotta know when to quit

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by Polock, Apr 7, 2009.

  1. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    i did everything i know, heat, impact driver even drilled a hole behind the bolt
    to get Kroil in there. Nothing, i give, it's staying on
    but i didn't snap it off so i guess i'll call it a draw 7 out of 8 ain't bad
     
  2. BikeRanger

    BikeRanger Member

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    vice grips tighten then loosen and repeat should start moving eventualy. dont reem on it just apply pressure one way then the other
     
  3. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    Replace the entire head, that's the easiest way....... :D
     
  4. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    maybe i'll try packing black powder in the cavity behind the bolt, now that i have a hole for a fuse :)
     
  5. switch263

    switch263 Member

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    Give that kroil some time to work and give her another shot man. Kroil is like magic, love that stuff.
     
  6. dpawl31

    dpawl31 Member

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    Uhm, if it gets to THAT....


    Video please? :D
     
  7. SQLGuy

    SQLGuy Well-Known Member

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    If you're planning to replace the boot, the one other thing I can think of is to weld a piece of bar iron, or a sacrifice allen key, to the bolt to use as a lever... you'd probably then need to cut the bar off after a half-turn or so, since there doesn't look to be clearance to rotate it 360 degrees.

    As an added benefit, the heat of the welding would help break the bolt loose.
     
  8. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    the boot is actually in good shape but the engine is going to see a lot of stripper and harsh chemicals as soon as it warms up a bit, and i thought if i could get them off all the better
    i guess that one is just going to get taped up real good
    the cavity behind the bolt is full of Kroil and it sat over night
    there's really too much mass of aluminum there to heat with a torch and do any good
    i'll just give it a few smacks with the impact driver every day and see what happens
     
  9. wamaxim

    wamaxim Active Member

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    I'm voting big time for the black powder/fuse option. Recommendation? Use lots and lots and lots of black powder. Use a long fuse stand back and don't forget to keep that video running!

    Good gosh Polock. You made my night!
     
  10. MiCarl

    MiCarl Active Member

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    Yep. You need a lot of heat fast.

    Black powder will do that :twisted:
     
  11. stereomind

    stereomind Active Member

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    someone once mentioned using a drill with the clutch set to slip a bit and just let it hammer on the screw for a while... like a mini-impact.

    black powder sounds fun though!
     
  12. mcrwt644

    mcrwt644 Member

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    make sure you have a beer visible in your hand, then post to you tube!

    seriously though, it's weird she didn't come out. They are usually good about that
     
  13. midnightblu

    midnightblu Member

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    no retreat no surrender! seriously man on things like this i get out the breaker bar and put slow gentle pressure on it and use somthing to hold it in place. tap the tool in lightly with the ball pin hammer. then increase the pressure and repeat. periodically try to tighten a little then loosen.

    you could do the same with a pen torch if needed.
     
  14. TECHLINETOM

    TECHLINETOM Member

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    Bring it to my house on Saturday or Sunday afternoon . We'll get it out!

    I gots big tools! :twisted:
     
  15. mrkil

    mrkil Member

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    heat is your friend

    throw some heat on the head where the bolt is
     
  16. bluepotpie

    bluepotpie Member

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    i would grind the head off the bolt, remove the boot, and take it to a GOOD welder. They can use a special welding rod to weld a nut to it that will heat up the stuck bolt enough to almost liquify it, only for a fraction of a second. The flux from the rod cools faster than the steel does and creates a "straw" of sorts and as the steel expends it has nowhere to go but into the straw. as the steel cools, it contracts. Some of the steel will stay in the "straw" thus making the bolt slightly smaller in diameter than it was before. This pulls it inward, away from the threads, (by a TINY amount, we're talking 1/1000" or smaller) making it easy to throw a wrench on the nut and turn it right out.
     

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