1. Some members were not receiving emails sent from XJbikes.com. For example: "Forgot your password?" function to reset your password would not send email to some members. I believe this has been resolved now. Please use "Contact Us" form (see page footer link) if you still have email issues. SnoSheriff

    Hello Guest. You have limited privileges and you can't "SEARCH" the forums. Please "Log In" or "Sign Up" for additional functionality. Click HERE to proceed.

dual disc setup changing and bleeding

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by kingsmurf, Apr 9, 2009.

  1. kingsmurf

    kingsmurf Member

    Messages:
    31
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    6
    Location:
    Cape Breton
    lol getting to know my bike and my front brakes don't work . i ordered new brake pads but i forgot i have dual disc set up but no worrys i'll order one more set . i want to know how so i get about changing and bleeding . i am new to working on motorcycles and love working on my bike .
     
  2. wizard

    wizard Active Member

    Messages:
    5,282
    Likes Received:
    26
    Trophy Points:
    38
    Location:
    DEVON ENGLAND
    hi smurf, have you got a manual for your bike or the xj cd?
     
  3. kingsmurf

    kingsmurf Member

    Messages:
    31
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    6
    Location:
    Cape Breton
    nope , where do i get one
     
  4. dpawl31

    dpawl31 Member

    Messages:
    873
    Likes Received:
    11
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    NH, USA
    http://www.xjcd.org <-- That's how you get the XJ CD :)

    Changing the pads is very simple really.
    Remove the caliper, then the pads, clean everything.
    Lube the back of the pads and put it back together.
    On the bleeding - I have not done it yet on my bike, but
    it's pretty basic, just look it up online.

    While you have them apart you might want to make sure everything is good in your master cylinder. And if you hoses are original, they should be replaced.

    A car has floating rotors and our bikes don't, so lubing the caliper bolts is not really necessary. Definitely clean them especially the threads.
     
  5. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

    Messages:
    9,156
    Likes Received:
    1,970
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    The room where it happened
    Ummmm.....I don't think that cars have floating "rotors", but they do have floating "calipers" ("floating" means they move back and forth on their mounting hardware, perhaps "in and out" is more descriptive because their direction of movement is to and from the centerline of the motorcycle).

    Some models, like on the XJ650 Maxim and the XJ1100 (rear) calipers, have a goofy "pivoting" system of "floating", mainly because the caliper is secured to the fork tube along their "long" axis. Other models float along the more standard short axis, and NEED to float (or you may get brake drag, binding, squeal, chattering, overheating, etc.), and those pin or pins that allow that movement do need to be smooth, burr- and scar-free, and could use a smidge of some lubricant.
     
  6. dpawl31

    dpawl31 Member

    Messages:
    873
    Likes Received:
    11
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    NH, USA
    *doh*

    Wow, just did brakes on a friends car last night.
    I am so spacey right now...

    That's what I get for trying to bang out a few posts inbetween rushes at work.

    Duh! Floating calipers.
     
  7. kingsmurf

    kingsmurf Member

    Messages:
    31
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    6
    Location:
    Cape Breton
  8. wamaxim

    wamaxim Active Member

    Messages:
    1,215
    Likes Received:
    2
    Trophy Points:
    36
    Location:
    Vancouver, USA
    There is a guy on this forum whose name is Chacal. He's the local parts guru and is GREAT to work with. He knows these bikes inside and out and can give you solid advice. Oh yeah, Idon't think he ever sleeps.

    I bought the factory manual for my Maxim and ofyen just pick it up to read a passage or two and look at the grat pictures. I always prefer factory manuals when I can get them but there is also a Clymers manual availabe for a little less money and is readily available on-line. I would buy the factory manual if you can swing the money.
     
  9. dpawl31

    dpawl31 Member

    Messages:
    873
    Likes Received:
    11
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    NH, USA
    I have yet to do my lines, will do ASAP.
    Those lines you posted look like a very good deal, but I don't know if they are the proper fittings. The do look nice a trustworthy though.

    Can't mess up by going with Chacal though.
     
  10. kingsmurf

    kingsmurf Member

    Messages:
    31
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    6
    Location:
    Cape Breton
    can anyone tell me if 10mm by 10mm is a good fit ?
     
  11. motorduck

    motorduck Member

    Messages:
    251
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    Just did my pads, lines and master cylinder (THANKS CHACAL!). Sorry, smurf, can't tell you the exact fitting-size.

    QUESTIONS:
    1. I didn't "lube the back of the pads." Bad?
    2. What is a good lubricant to use on the floating calipers?
    3. I bled that thing for an hour. It looked PRETTY good, but had a couple TINY air bubbles. I capped it and the brakes are functioning really well (much better than they have the entire time I have owned the bike). Should I be worried about those little bubbles?
     
  12. Ace_Frehley

    Ace_Frehley Member

    Messages:
    559
    Likes Received:
    2
    Trophy Points:
    16
    Location:
    NS Canada
    They are 10mm fittings Smurf
     
  13. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

    Messages:
    9,156
    Likes Received:
    1,970
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    The room where it happened
    Duck, thanks! Brake assembly grease is good for the hardware, or any high-temp non-petrolem grease. You can use lube or a pad-quiet formula for the back of the pad that contacts the piston.......VERY thin coating. May help to prevent some squeel from developing.

    Tiny air bubbles means air in the lines or the caliper. Try turning the wheel full lock to the left and bleed again after a couple of hours. The turn the wheel full right, let sit for a few hours, bleed again. If there is any air trapped inside the very tippy-top of the caliper body this will release it. If not, you may have a leaking bleeder screw that may need a wrap of teflon tape on it.
     

Share This Page