dual disc setup changing and bleeding

lol getting to know my bike and my front brakes don't work . i ordered new brake pads but i forgot i have dual disc set up but no worrys i'll order one more set . i want to know how so i get about changing and bleeding . i am new to working on motorcycles and love working on my bike .

 

hi smurf, have you got a manual for your bike or the xj cd?

 

nope , where do i get one

 

http://www.xjcd.org <-- That's how you get the XJ CD

Changing the pads is very simple really.
Remove the caliper, then the pads, clean everything.
Lube the back of the pads and put it back together.
On the bleeding - I have not done it yet on my bike, but
it's pretty basic, just look it up online.

While you have them apart you might want to make sure everything is good in your master cylinder. And if you hoses are original, they should be replaced.

A car has floating rotors and our bikes don't, so lubing the caliper bolts is not really necessary. Definitely clean them especially the threads.

 

Ummmm.....I don't think that cars have floating "rotors", but they do have floating "calipers" ("floating" means they move back and forth on their mounting hardware, perhaps "in and out" is more descriptive because their direction of movement is to and from the centerline of the motorcycle).

Some models, like on the XJ650 Maxim and the XJ1100 (rear) calipers, have a goofy "pivoting" system of "floating", mainly because the caliper is secured to the fork tube along their "long" axis. Other models float along the more standard short axis, and NEED to float (or you may get brake drag, binding, squeal, chattering, overheating, etc.), and those pin or pins that allow that movement do need to be smooth, burr- and scar-free, and could use a smidge of some lubricant.

 

*doh*

Wow, just did brakes on a friends car last night.
I am so spacey right now...

That's what I get for trying to bang out a few posts inbetween rushes at work.

Duh! Floating calipers.

 

are these good replacement for brakelines ? i know i'll need two brakelines

http://cgi.ebay.ca/YAMAHA-MOTORCYCLE-ST ... 240%3A1318

 

There is a guy on this forum whose name is Chacal. He's the local parts guru and is GREAT to work with. He knows these bikes inside and out and can give you solid advice. Oh yeah, Idon't think he ever sleeps.

I bought the factory manual for my Maxim and ofyen just pick it up to read a passage or two and look at the grat pictures. I always prefer factory manuals when I can get them but there is also a Clymers manual availabe for a little less money and is readily available on-line. I would buy the factory manual if you can swing the money.

 

I have yet to do my lines, will do ASAP.
Those lines you posted look like a very good deal, but I don't know if they are the proper fittings. The do look nice a trustworthy though.

Can't mess up by going with Chacal though.

 

can anyone tell me if 10mm by 10mm is a good fit ?

 

Just did my pads, lines and master cylinder (THANKS CHACAL!). Sorry, smurf, can't tell you the exact fitting-size.

QUESTIONS:
1. I didn't "lube the back of the pads." Bad?
2. What is a good lubricant to use on the floating calipers?
3. I bled that thing for an hour. It looked PRETTY good, but had a couple TINY air bubbles. I capped it and the brakes are functioning really well (much better than they have the entire time I have owned the bike). Should I be worried about those little bubbles?

 

They are 10mm fittings Smurf

 

Duck, thanks! Brake assembly grease is good for the hardware, or any high-temp non-petrolem grease. You can use lube or a pad-quiet formula for the back of the pad that contacts the piston.......VERY thin coating. May help to prevent some squeel from developing.

Tiny air bubbles means air in the lines or the caliper. Try turning the wheel full lock to the left and bleed again after a couple of hours. The turn the wheel full right, let sit for a few hours, bleed again. If there is any air trapped inside the very tippy-top of the caliper body this will release it. If not, you may have a leaking bleeder screw that may need a wrap of teflon tape on it.