Valve Clearance for XJ700

First time doing this. I'm checking my vavles today or tomorrow, got off till friday. So question!
When I position the Cam lobes at a 90 from the shim, what should my clearence tool read? In BigFitz's post his shows .006, which it out of spec. What is spec for my XJ700?
I cant find any good zipties so I'm going to use 12 gauge wire and bend it up a couple times to fit in the plug hole.
Are butter Knifes Non-magnetic? lol i think the rest of my tools are magnetized.
Thanks ya'll!
-SLKid

 

Oh! And how are you measuring the clearance. Do you slide the feeler gauge in until you start getting resistance?

 

If you slide the proper feeler blade between the shim and the cam lobe, you should feel a slight drag. If you feel nothing, it's too loose, if you have to shove it through, it's too tight.

It really is an imperfect science. "Slight drag" is hardly a precise term.

 

Again, I'm just going to point out that the manual says you should use a magnet to get the shims out...so I wouldn't worry about it too much if you do.

 

Ok. Thanks guys

 

Got a question about the Oil under the head. Is that just the oil from your crankcase (10w40) Or is that special gear oil? Smells like regualr oil. Should each bucket get filled back up with oil when I'm done?
-SLKid

 

Not the factory manual it doesn't. MAGNETS BAD when doing shims. It's not being "overly cautious" its preventing long-term wear.

That is just motor oil up top; you don't need to fill anything up, but if you have things apart they should be liberally oiled upon reassembly.

 

Like the replacing of shims. Gotcha! Just curious. I just read in a post the that this guy had the same problem as me. Low Idle, one popping exhaust. And it sounds like he fixed it with a valve check. I hope it works! Now if I can just get that last cover bolt off with some kroil
-SLKid
Thanks Fitz! btw. I'm sure I should take your advice. Sounds logical

 

Had a DR appt that lasted 5 HOURS! ... So i didnt get a chance to check all the valves in the failing daylight.. So I'm just gonna put her back together, empty the fuel tank, add some SeaFoam, fill er up a bit, and go for a ride and run that stuff through. It'll help a bit in my carbs, but tomorrow after I pick up my paycheck I'll finish compression testing and Valves.
-SLKid

 

Well she's idling pretty good currently. I rode her around a bit last night to run some seafoam through. She's popping a little more at idle though. Its really.. really annoying sounding, and really annoying trying to solve it.. Hopefully I'll get this valve check done today if I have time.. I need a solid 3 hours to complete it. As soon as I get home though I'm going to Compression check though. On my way home I'm going to check at NAPA for a colortune. Love to have one for now
-SLKid

 

I know I've been procrastinating, but Today I'm going to do a Valve Check. I got a metric Feeler Gauge now so I have no excuses!


-SLKid

(Deleted stupid question.. duh.. look at the chart..)

 

Service Manual:

 

Ok. Got the Clearances for my valves. Lemme know what ya'll think. I'ma try and pull the shims and get the numbers off em.
#1
Exhaust: .005/.006
Intake: .005

#2
Exhaust: .007
Intake: .005

#3
Exhaust: .005
Intake: .005

#4
Exhaust: .005
Intake: .005

Do these sound adnormal or anything? They sound a little odd to me

-SLKid

(Edit) I went back and looked at my feelers, and I think its actually standard. There is little numbers next to the big ones that have mm under it
ex: .005 has the numbers .127 next to it.
That wouldnt be the measurement from inches to MM would it???

 

Yep. The larger number is the mm measurement. There are 25.4 mm in an inch, so 0.005*25.4 = 0.127

 

Oh ok. So i do have the right gauges.
But my problem is, It measured in Thousandths. .005 and .007. The Chart has numbers in the hundreths.. .05 and .06 for the pads. So my measurments are off? Should i get a gauge that measures in hundreths?

 

Wow this is much easier than I thought it would be. Plucked my first shim out.
#4Exhaust, Y250. Cool.
Did you guys know there is a notch in the cylinders that is specifically made to pluck the shims out??? Just hold a tool there and push up to pop the shim out. Dont even need two tools! Ran inside to grab a bowl to dip the shims in oil. I'll post all shims in a min or two
12 gauge wire works nice btw
-SLKid

 

You have the right gauge, especially if it's printed in metric too. The chart is referring to METRIC measurements, compare to the metric numbers on your gauge. For instance, your .005"=0.127mm, so for an exhaust shim that currently has a 250 installed, the chart indicates you would go to a 245. Read across the top to "250" (installed shim) then down the left to your measured clearance; in this case .127mm falls between 0.11 and 0.15 (mm) on the chart so it would be the row just above the blank row, read over to the 250 column and bingo*

 

Ok here we go. Got all my numbers! For the record, i jsut want to say that all this stuff I've learned on XJBikes, all the checks and repairs and whatnot, they sound SO HARD on paper. Probably jsut because its all foreign to me and completely new. But when you start doing these things, its really really easy and self explanitory as you gain momentum.
Anyway,

#1
Exhaust: .005/.006
Pad Installed: 250
New Pad: 235

Intake: .005
Pad Installed: 265
New pad: 255

#2
Exhaust: .007
Pad Installed: 250
New Pad: 240

Intake: .005
Pad Installed: 265
New Pad:255

#3
Exhaust: .005
Pad Installed: 255
New Pad: 240

Intake: .005
Pad Installed: 270
New Pad:260

#4
Exhaust: .005
Pad Installed: 250
New Pad: 235

Intake: .005
Pad Installed: 270
New pad: 260


Sound about right guys?? I Love doin this stuff
-SLKid
(Edit: I Think I'm going to pop those 235 ones up to 240s. I think that sounds reasonable. All the other valves are dropped two shims down, I dont think I need to drop them three shims down.)

 

Actually, no, you're using your "inch" measurements in the metric chart.

#1 exhaust, measured: .005"-.006" which is .127mm-.152mm, installed shim is a 250, new pad would be a 245.

#1 intake, .005"=.127mm, spec is .11mm-.15mm, so no shim change needed.

#2 exhaust, .007"=.178mm, spec is .16mm-.20mm, so no change needed.

#2 intake, .005"=.127mm so it's in spec. (see #1 intake.)

#3 exhaust, .005"=.127mm, installed shim is a 255, so the new pad would be a 250.

#3 intake, .005"=.127mm, so just like #1 and #2 it's ok.

#4 exhaust, .005"=.127mm, installed shim is a 250, so new pad would be a 245.

#4 intake, .005"=.127mm, so like the others, it's in spec.

Looks to me like you need three exhaust shims, #1, 3 and #4; two 245's and a 250. Record the metric equivalents next time and save the converting (and confusion.) Which is why I prefer to use my metric feeler gauge.

 

Oh COOL! NOW it makes sense. I posted that before I read your PM Fitz. I understand what you mean now with the metric gauges. I shoulda jsut went out and got a set when I picked up tweezers for the shims. (Appearently Hemostats are not commonly found in VA Beach so I got some hair tweezers from RiteAide)
When I insert the new shims I'll record the new clearances in Metric for future reference.
Thanks a TON Fitz!! I'll make an order for Chacal right now
-SLKid
PS. Sorry Pygmy.. I do appreciate your imput, trust me, it doesnt go un-noticed. But The years of experiance these guys have overrides my urge to take shortcuts. Thank you though!

 

You didn't check the local head shop did you?
:wink:

 

Wow hound. Thought never crossed my mind!! Closest one to Pungo is an hour away though. Dont go there unless I'm plannin on buyin in bulk

 

I know a medical assistant. They have to throw them away after a certain length of service, so I get them free on occasion. One pair I have came from Harbor Freight though.

 

We can buy them at the local flea market tool guy by the pound. (However, since I teach biology, I have a supply from tiny to huge).

 

I'm very excited! My new shims should be in tomorrow by the time I get off work!! Woot! I'll install those and then I'm off to fine tuning!! Carb sync and Colortune here I come! So stoked. She's gonna be a brand new bike by tomorrow night! Lets just hope the neighbor is as excited as I am to bust out his Elec Carb Sync tool! Why wouldnt he be
Get my rear brakes tomorrow too. That'll be interesting to install.
-StreetLegalKid

 

If you've been in the carbs, rear brakes are a snap...

 

once apart, rear brakes are "easy squeezy" probably the simpest mechanism ON an XJ.

Make sure everything's "religiously clean" and use a good brake lube on the pivot pin and actuator cam. That's really all there is to it.

 

Finished my Valve Job! New shims are IN place and she sounds.. more steady i guess you could say. The exhaust now has a minimal pop to it at 3k rpm. I need to sync to fix that problem i'd assume.
Took new measurements with my new shims in place.
My intake valves were "in spec" so i didnt change any pads.
Feedback ya'll?

#1
E: .007
Shim: 245
I: .005
Shim: 265

#2
E: .008
Shim: 250
I: .006
Shim: 265

#3
E: .008
Shim: 250
I: .005
Shim: 270

#4
E: .008
Shim: 245
I: .005
Shim: 270

All looks pretty good to me except #2's intake. Think I mis-gauged. Think it'll be ok??

-SLKid

 

Customary units, so I don't know...