choke issue

Maybe someone can explain this issue I have on my 82 650 maxim
When I start my bike cold, I need to pull the choke lever out only about 1/4"
that is 1/4" inch, any further out the bike will not start, the lever has about 1" of lever action to go. Once it starts I can't leave it in that position more then a few seconds, any attempt to pull the choke lever the engine stalls.
Once it starts it runs fine as long as I don't mess with the choke lever.
Any expert opinions?

 

your not getting enough gas. sounds like the idle/pilot jets are dirty.

S!

 

Based on my 650, you don't have a problem. Mine uses about the smae or no choke to start now that temps are up outside. When cold it takes just about all of the choke throw to start, but it does start first crank. I am guessing your are not having to crank more than once or twice to get her to fire. That is my 650 experience, some others will chime in if I am wrong.
Gregg

 

I had a problem like that on one of my 750's. The PO brought the carbs to the motorcycle junk yard for the guy to work on them. He drilled the jets out in the bottom of the float bowl wells. Those are the ones that you should be able to clean with a thin wire. Well he used an 1/8" Drill bit. So if you used the choke lever any more then just a little bit. I would almost have raw gas running out of the collector box under the bike. I found some other float bowls and cleaned those properly and I saved the old bowls to bolt on carbs I'm working on so I don't break any float hinge posts.

 

one question to Thee_Oddball
if I am not getting enough gas and the dirty idle pilot jet why would the engine starts fine, idles fine.

 

just to clarify you have to leave the choke in the 1/4 position all the time? on most bikes when the choke is on full you get more gas less air, but if your pilot jets are half clogged full choke will....well choke it to much, i cant remember how much of the low RPM the idles jets take care of before the main jets take over. i have had bike where i could keep it running if stayed over 3K but below that it would stall and applying choke was no help to starting it because the pilot jets were clogged solid.

S!

 

Three_oddball
After the engine starts I do not leave the choke on in the 1/4" out position, if I do the engine will stall. I turn it completely off. If I try move the choke lever out it stalls the engine, basically not using the choke at all after it starts.

 

Sounds like you are getting to much fuel through the enrichment circuit. The little brass tube on the bottom of the carb body has a small bleed hole in it up close to the top. Make sure thats clear. Your problem is in that area.

 

listen to MN trek, he knows these bikes better than i do.

S!

 

Mine only requires about a 1/4 choke now with the warmer weather. Any more and it wont start either. But i do need to leave mine on until it warms up some. If i shut the choke off right away it will kill. This is in the temp range of 60 degrees. Does your bike run great with good throttle response the way it is? I've heard float height can have something to do with how much gas the engine is getting.

 

All of my bikes work the same way. Full choke to start. RPMs go up to about 2500 then back off as they warm up. RPMS go down with the position of the choke lever. The head starts to feel warm I back the choke lever off all the way. They Idle at 1050 RPM.
With owning seven of these bikes and I had to get into the carbs on all of these bikes. I'm here to tell you I was ripping my hair out and kicking the walls in my garage untill I finally figured these darn things out. I'm sure Rick and some of the other guys have way more experience than I do. I know several key things about these carbs. I had to find out the hard way.

#1 Surgical Clean Bodys and internal parts & Polish Carb Bores (Clunk Test)
#2 Throttle shaft seals have to seal
#3 Mixture screw o-rings have to be good and sealing
#4 Enrichment Circuit Has to be right From the float bowl to the plunger.
#5 Float Levels Perfect.
#6 Carb Boots Have to seal and be good.
#7 Set Your Valves Before Sync
#8 Do it right the first time and save your brain the headache you will get.

I might be mistaken but I believe the idle should go up when choke is on and as you back it off the RPMs come down as well. I remember my 650 when it was new back in 82 and thats how it ran.

 

you are correct sir, heat,choke and RPM's are intertwined while the bike is heating up to operating temperature, as temp goes up choke goes down MN you did forget number
#9 make appropriate sacrifice to the god of CV so he may bless your carbs and not leave you with a powerhole in the upper RPM range while trying to pass that 18 wheeler :twisted: 8O

S!

 

Oddball's playing the right music.

The most common problems are in the areas most easily overlooked by an inexperienced person working on these carbs.

To be able to do Fine Tuning:

The Bowls need to be spotless. The Drain Screws need to work and the passage out the Float Height Test Port clean.
Enrichment Well clear and functional.
The Enrichment Siphon Tube probed and fuel flowing.

The Emulsion Tube:
The Emulsion Tube MUST be extracted and cleaned so well that a Marine Corp Drill Instructor would show yours to the rest of the Platoon as good example. This means: Although its Brass it better look like GOLD when you have them cleaned for Performance Tuning.


Finish-up by Polishing the Bores:


Apply for a Pilots License!

 

Oddball's playing the right music.

The most common problems are in the areas most easily overlooked by an inexperienced person working on these carbs.

To be able to do Fine Tuning:

The Bowls need to be spotless. The Drain Screws need to work and the passage out the Float Height Test Port clean.
Enrichment Well clear and functional.
The Enrichment Siphon Tube probed and fuel flowing.

The Emulsion Tube:
The Emulsion Tube MUST be extracted and cleaned so well that a Marine Corp Drill Instructor would show yours to the rest of the Platoon as good example. This means: Although its Brass it better look like GOLD when you have them cleaned for Performance Tuning.


Finish-up by Polishing the Bores:


Apply for a Pilots License!

 

Hey Odball
WOOF WOOF WOOF.

 

Is there a thread with step by step instructions and pictures on how to clean the carbs on the 650xj maxim series?

 

do a search for old school carb cleaning by Rick co matic

 

well I tried searching with no luck

 

ok try this Forums › XJBikes Talk › XJ FAQ Suggestions › "Clean Your Own Carbs!" Old School Method by: Rick Massey

 

Trek, look in the FAQ suggestion forum, it's on page 1 & the 5th post down.