Engine Cover?

And the stupid question of the day is.......


What exactly do I remove to get to the cam chain tensioner? My haynes manual just says "engine cover", but what the heck theres like 4 different 'covers' that could be removed.

I thought I had the correct one, but it ended up being the starter- so now I'm a little weary of pulling off any of the other covers, because I don't want to end up opening part of the oil sump or something, and having an oil slick in the garage.

So which cover do I remove to get to the cam chain tensioner? Is it the one that says YICS (it's my second guess, but its right there near the sump so I didnt want to chance it).

thanks!

 

I could be completely wrong about this. I have never adjusted the cam chain tensioner on any of my XJs and I don't have a manual with me here at work, but I thought you had to remove the valve cover to get to it. Meaning - the cover on the very top of the engine.

From memory, the right front cover is the timing mechanism and the rear is the shift mechanism. The left front doesn're really cover anything and the rear is the clutch.

I will look this up when I can.

Greg

 

Naturally, I have left and right reversed in my previous post. Obviously, the shifter is on the left, not the right. Doop!

Greg

 

I forgot! I ahve the XJ cds here. I just took a quick look and if I'm reading it correctly, the adjuster for the tensioner is under the cover for the timing plate. It's the forward plate on the left side. The smaller one that probably says 'YICS' on it. No need to pull the valve cover as I eroneously surmised.

To finally get this right.

Right side:

Front Plate - nothing
Back Plate - Clutch

Left Side:

Front Plate - Timing mechanism and cam chain tensioner adjuster
Back Plate - Shift Mechanism

Best of luck,

Greg

 

No, no, no ... guys -- The cam chain tensioner is at the back of the engine ... BELOW the engine cover. It's and EXTERNAL part. You don't have to remove the cover to get at it. Just look below the cover for the only obvious ellement "sticking-out" from the rear of the block.

Most of the XJ-Series cam chain tensioners are "Self adjusting." You can help it self-adjust by popping-off the left side crank cover and fitting a wrench on the flats of the ignition pick-up rotor. Rotate the engine in the normal direction 2 full turns ... then, QUICKLY rotate the crank BACKWARD. The slack in the chain will allow the tensioner to take-up the slack and will be adjusted.

 

Looking at your signature I suspect this is on your 650. The 650's usually have the manual tensioner. So as Rick stated rotate the engine via a 19mm wrench on the crankshaft end under the left point cover. There are 2 marks. One is "T" for TDC (top dead center) and the other is "C". This is for adjusting the camchain. Not that the "C" mark is not rounded like the letter but is three straight lines. More like a square with an open end.
Once the engine is in the right position loosen the jam nut on the tensioner and listen for the click, which will only be heard if the chain is slack and the tensioner takes up the slack. Then retighten the jam nut and you're done.

 

My 82 650 maxim has the automatic tensioner, as should yours.

 

I had my 550 in to get the valves adjusted and the mechanic said he adjusted the cam chain as well. I don't know how he adjusted it but I had a rattling buzz to the engine that wasn't there before. I had looked at what was required to adjust the cam chain and proceeded with it. Left front cover off, rotate timing mark to C. Loosen the lock nut then the adjuster. Smacked the adjuster a couple times with a socket extention just to make sure it wasn't stuck. Tighten the nuts, cover back on and fired it up. Rattle is completely gone!

 

so I'm still not clear which cover I am to remove? is it the one that says 'YICS' on it?

 

Yes, the smaller one that says YICS, on the left side as your sitting on the bike.

 

Thanks, thats what I needed to know 8)

 

well, I followed the dirrections exactly (3 times) even tried clanking on the thing a couple times while it was loose, and I still have a rattle. Makes me worry that it might be the valves or something :-\

Any thoughts? it sounds like it could be a chain rattle, or valves ticking. it doesn't get lost in the engine sound when I rev it up- it just gets louder and faster the higher I rev (I can even hear it on the freeway)

I also noticed something else that worries me, my oil level was not up to par (and I just got back from a 500 mile road trip) I was about 1/4 quart low, adding the oil did nothing for the sound.

 

Cam chain bridge / guide: Across the top of the engine between both cams ... worn, loose ... (lift cam chain to check for tightness)

Universal Joint: Although it hides behind the rubber boot ... a U-Joint in critical condition will cause engine noises ... at the reverberation is carried all the way to the top of the engine.

Cam chain tensioner at "The Limit" (No more tensioning available ... indicates you need to overhaul the chain, possibly all the guides and tension related parts)

Thrown shim: Valve adjustments not checked / or incorrectly calculated measurement causing a shim to be thrown loose. Not good.

Bearing caps: Incorrect???

Loose bearing caps: Rotational noises, insufficient oil presure, ticking bomb.

Spun big end bearing (connecting rod) -- Unplug one sparkplug wire at a time. If the noise goes away ... call a Priest after you get back from the liquor store.

 

man, I hate being such a novice. I've got no clue on basicly all those things (except the 'spun big end bearing' which I will check for in the morning)

I just want to point out how rediculously unhelpfull this haynes manual is.

 

wierdest thing. I decided to change the air filter (really needed it) and plugs (fouled from gunky air filter) and it seems to have cured the ticking (or atleast quieted it extremely).

Another question though. my plugs were carbon fouled last time I checked them (maybe a week ago) but when I pulled them this time they didnt have the black sooty deposit, instead it had kind of an ashy-burnt finish to them. I just took a road trip over the weekend, that ranged in elevation from 1000-7500 feet in elevation (ran like crap at 7500, but that was kind of expected). Anyways, would the change in elevation/air-fuel mixture cause the plugs to look like this?

 

I was wrong, the ticking is still ever present... I think I just wanted to hear it gone so bad that I ignored it.. :-(

 

Greyish coloration is acceptable. I'm not inclined to think your trip through the stratosphere would have leaned out the mix enough to be your issue. It is true that a fresh air cleaner will allow the correct air/fuel mixture to occur and provide satisfactory plug coloration. A fouled air filter will leave carbon rich deposits (black soot) on the plugs.

 

Hey Kane, what page in the Haynes manual is the cam chain tensioner info on? Im goin to give it a go, got some ratta tat tat that im prayin is gonna be fixed by an adjustment.

 

The procedure to adjust the little bugger is outlined on page 30, section 10 (Haynes manual here). For dismantling, inspection, reinstallation, see pages 51 (section 6), page 75 (section 26), and page 108 (section 48, way in the back) respectively. Best of luck to you!

 

It appears that i have automatic chain tensioner?.. Should i still attempt to adjust it? Thanks for the advice Robert!

 

Switz1 , theres a post somewhere about camchain and auto tensioner with a pic or 2...

you could use that as a reference.... but whatever you do if the chain is knackerd do not beleive anyone that tells you have to split the cases to do it as i have seen/heard on some posts.....

it is not so...

one buys new chain and a chain breaker , break new chain , break old chain , join the 2 with a wire so no come apart , feed it throuh gently , rejoin new chain and burr the link....=done

 

Good advice HooNz! Excellent thinking.
Switz1, you should still pull the tensioner and ensure that all is well with it. I would pull it, clean it, reinstall (with a new gasket and a thin film of sealant), retension and go for a ride. Best of luck!

 

Thanks for the help..... You guys are the best!

 

So to simplify Left (yics) cover to adjust cam chain tensioner.. To pull tensioner to clean and lubricate it is located on the back bottom of cylinder head correct??

 

Roger that Switz1. Make sure the tensioner pad isn't shot while you have it out, good time to replace if needed. Follow the chain tensioning proceedures to the letter for optimal tension (turned my chain clockwise, long story).

 

quick question, when turning the chain to the 'c' mark should there be rough spots where it is more difficult to turn the wheel/chain? When turning the timing plate there is a larg area where it is significantly more difficult to turn, but outside of that area it turns fairly easily.

 

Yes, as you turn the crank, you are fighting the compression of the motor. To eliminate this difficulty, simply pull the spark plugs.

 

Any luck with your noise Kane?.. Today I tried to do some adjustments but alas my rattling still exsists. I did notice below what I thought was the cam chain tensioner(protruding from bottom of cylinder head) Is a bolt with a lock-nut on it(this bolt goes down into crankcase). Im wondering if I can adjust my cam chain with this. The only reasoning behind this is because what i thought was the tensioner (into bottom cylinder head) only has a bolt that screws into the back of it, it really dont appear to adjust anything it just backs out. Hope this make sense, and you guys dont think im crazy!

 

Just to clear things up if i confused anyone, page 53 in the haynes manual is my set-up. I understand part number 8 is the cam tensioner, but backing the bolt out(part 16) with the pointer set to "C" seems to do nothing. Part number 12,13,14, 15 that goes down into crankcase seems like it would do more adjusting. Again hope im makin sense, jus bout at the end of my rope.

 

Wooh Switz, part 16 is one of two bolts securing the tensioner to the back of the head. No adjustment is possible with this. The only way to adjust your type of tensioner is to change out the spring loaded behind the bolt on the back of the tensioner, but I would caution against that. If the tension is not correct, you should renew the tensioner as a whole (buy new, all the others in the wreckers are the same age). Might be a bit of expense but it's cheap compared to the damage a slack chain can do. The cam chain tensioner blade (11) hold down bolt can be adjusted but really should not be disturbed if you can help it. It's adjustment is simple but should not need to be touched. Given your concern about a rattle I'm curious to know if you have done a valve clearance check yet. That will make a bit of chatter and most folks neglect this important service item. Check it out.

 

i was gunna say this ages ago , but ain't the cam chain tensioner under the carbs ??? center of motor , it is on mine...

and as its auto you no need to put anything near the c mark...

so remove the bolt outa the end of tensioner , its under tension , then a spring will be there.

but remove the whole housing after remove bolt and av a look , the amout the rachet is out will be the amount of cam chain stretch as in the photos [talking about them , is your tensioner look like that?].

then flick up the little lug and push in the rachet back in , then refit whole thing , then put in spring and the bolt on the end , the spring will auto tension the chain!...

so if the rachet is along way out after removal chain is fairly stretched and guides maybe worn , how many k's the bike done?...

 

Its only got 13,800 miles on the clock. Im the third owner, and its in pretty good shape. The symptoms ... No rattle when cold,only after bike gets warm,and then its only when engine is under a light load. If I crank it and accellerate through the gears it goes away for the most part. Im kinda scared i might have gave her a little more than she could take a time or 2 and done some damage.
Thanks for your help , this forum Rocks

 

ok , cam chains if loose will rattle all the time hot or cold generally , it don't sound like pistons either as they too rattle cold [more] the quiten down a bit when hot generally.

Now big ends [crankshaft] have a sympton? [cayn't spell today] like that , cold oil thicker =no noise , then oil thins when hotter creating a imaginary wider gap which is there of course , so a suggestion would be on the next oil change go for a heavier oil for now and see if it quitens down , and if it did at some time in da fewture a bit of motor work will be needed...

 

Any Idea an easy way to check my U-joint? If i remember correct it only does it moving..Im trying not to run it much to avoid doing more damage. So far i have dropped the oil and filter to look for bearing shavings, its clean. I have also dumped gas and added new to rule out bad gas.

 

You have to disassemble the rear wheel to check the U-joint for anything besides too much free play. They can bind up and be hard to move or they can get loose if the bearings wear out but from outside it's hard to tell anything either way.

 

You can pull the sump off maybe too and have a reel good look with a torch..be prepared for some contortion moves though...

under the rubber boot is the u joint , pull it back and feel for play...

 

And maybe lean the bike over to make looking underneath easier??

 

Unfortunately the design of the swing arm necessitates the removal of the swing arm to check the U joint (the housing obscures the shaft completely), no way around it. Sorry bud.