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Super Fine Rust Particals in the Float Bowls

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by MN-Maxims, May 12, 2009.

  1. MN-Maxims

    MN-Maxims St. Paul Minnesota

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    Just pulled the carbs off of my #1 1100 Maxim and when I removed the float bowls I found some fine rust dust in there. I looked in the tank and it doesn't seem rusty in there. Thats the only place it could come from anyway. So it looks like I should seal the tank. Whats better product to use Kreem or Por-15. I heard one of them peels and makes a mess of things.
    Any suggestions?

    MN
     
  2. MN-Maxims

    MN-Maxims St. Paul Minnesota

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    Also is there a filter that could catch the rust untill I get the tank treated.?
     
  3. Thee_oddball

    Thee_oddball Member

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    clear inline filters from any auto parts store...about $4 each :)
     
  4. stereomind

    stereomind Active Member

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    Inline filters that flow good enough for a gravity-fed carb setup will probably not catch that super-fine rust. I've seen it go through filters and not even leave a stain... Can't say much about Kreem but if it was my tank, I'd use POR-15 or Redkote. So far I've heard from about a dozen people that Kreem doesn't last very long.
     
  5. MN-Maxims

    MN-Maxims St. Paul Minnesota

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    Wonder if I should try the battery charger rust removal and see if that cleans it up first. I really don't see hardly any rust i there. down in the bottom along the seem there is a little bit there.

    MN
     
  6. dpawl31

    dpawl31 Member

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    Kreem is the one you speak of peeling off and what not.

    http://www.kbs-coatings.com/

    Used that in my SECA.

    Cycle tank sealer kit. Amazing.
     
  7. tumbleweed_biff

    tumbleweed_biff Active Member

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    If you try the electrolysis bit, or whatever you do, be sure to thoroughly degrease the tank first. All varnish and residue must be out.

    You can do the electrolysis if you want, but I would suggest going the muriatic acid (HCl) route instead. Then, after thoroughly rinsing and drying, use the POR-15 tank sealant. The stuff is kind of cool. I had some spill on a plastic bucket and was fascinated with how it came off in this big, flexible, almost plastic-like sheet. That will completely seal and bond with any remaining surface rust.

    As far as blocking the rust ... get a *powerful* rare-earth magnet and attach it to the tank side of the in-line filter. That may well be able to pick up the rust as it goes by and hold onto it. You might even use two on opposing sides. Be sure to attach them firmly.
     
  8. Thee_oddball

    Thee_oddball Member

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    tumbleweed what did you use to close off the gas port and the petcock holes so acid didnt not leak out?
     
  9. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Bad gas.
    The stuff is in the Gasoline you're buying.
    Happened to me twice.
    Whatever it is ... is fine enough to get through the Filter.
     
  10. tumbleweed_biff

    tumbleweed_biff Active Member

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    I covered it with thick plastic taped down with duct tape. There was a very small amount of leakage, you might want to use a thin line of RTV as well.

    Practice with some other rusty pieces of various stages of rust to get an idea how long it takes. You will probably be diluting what you put in the tank 3 or 4 to one, so be sure your test mixture is similarly diluted. As an alternative or additional step, you can use phosphoric acid as well. The muriatic acid consumes the rust (and other metal as well, but the rust much faster). The phosphoric acid actually reacts with the rust to leave a protective layer that is dark grey. You could use the muriatic acid to remove the bulk, then the phosphoric acid to treat the rest. Phosphoric acid is frequently available as concrete etcher at you local hardware store. They probably will say they don't have phosphoric acid, but if you read the label of the concret etcher, you'll see that is what it is.
     
  11. dpawl31

    dpawl31 Member

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    Just a note about the KBS stuff I linked to, it preferred something like 4 to 1 over POR-15. I loved it.
     
  12. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Gentlemen; Have a look here: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=11733.html
    We had a lengthy discussion in regard to this very thing; there are a couple of different acid solutions as well as electrolysis, have a read...

    I went with the phosphoric acid myself and am very pleased with the results.
     
  13. MN-Maxims

    MN-Maxims St. Paul Minnesota

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    Fitz I took your advice and cleaned the tank.
    I couldn't see any rust inside untill I took out my inspection mirror.
    I just about fell over when I saw how much rust was in the top of my tank. Nasty flakey kind of rust. I pulled the petcocks and the fuel sender and just used black duct tape, put the phosphoric acid in and turned the tank over and let it sit for a few hours. I neutralized it with backing soda and rinsed the heck out of it. Clean as a new tank inside. Used a shop vac to suck the water out through the fuel sender hole. Added alittle gas with some sea foam and swished it around to coat inside and it looks great.

    MN
     

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