running lean need help!!

I have a 81 xj650 maxim it sat for two years so first thing I did was clean the carbs, new plugs, air filter, oil change, oil filter,I can't seem to get it to run right anymore. Ran fine before it sat it did sit inside, It runs rich and after about 8 miles of riding when its all warmed up it starts to stumble above 4,000 rpm. Plugs are all white I put the old plugs in today they were nice and tan went for a 10 mile ride pulled them out they were all white i'm around 3-to 3-1/4 turns out on the mix screws. how much is to much on the screws should I go more? I checked the carb boots all on good and tight the only thing I'm not sure about is the gas tank vent line comes off the carb#2 it goes up about 2 inches above the petcock then back down into it? Is that OK. Fuel line is new no uphills in it this just makes me mad because it used to run fine I don't want to run it lean and blow something up how can I get it to run richer? I also snyc the carbs just the other day please help I in need of a long ride.

 

You need to Clean the Emulsion Tubes ... Inside, Outside and Every single one of the little Air Metering Ports.

 

In the post I said it was running rich I ment lean but anyway thanks I will try that tonight and see what happens. Thanks

 

With the XJ-Series Bikes going on 25 ~ 30 Years Old; there is a host of maintenance items that should be done be each end every owner.
This list is by no means complete and not in any order but gives you an idea of what you should already have done.

Replace Fuse Panel
Clean and Adjust Carbs including Refinishing Diaphragm Piston Bores.
Replace Front Brake Hoses.
Replace Rear Brake Shoes and eliminate any rust ridge at Rear Drum.
Replace Steering Head Bearings
Service / Inspect / Replace / Repack all other Bearings
Check Alternator Brushes
Clean & Lube all Electrical Contacts, Plug-in's and Switches
De-Rust and Clean Ground Contacts: Main & Coils
Replace Stock Front Fork Springs

 

Rick, how did you get those tubes looking so good?

 

He does a high polish on them, impressive huh?

 

I have a Cap Screw with the Tubes matching Thread Pitch
I chuck the Cap Screw in my Drill
I thread the Tube on the Screw in the Drill
I spin the Tube and squeeze a ScotchBrite Pad on the rotating Tube.
All the crud and tarnish gets burnished away
I soak a Paper Towel with Lighter Fluid and wipe the Tube Clean
Using a Tool I probe all the Ports until I see light through them
I twist together three Pipe Cleaners and "Brush' the Center out with Carb Cleaner.
On paying jobs I also Polish the Tubes to make the Tube "pretty"
Finally, I hit them with a quick spray of Silicone Spray to facilitate replacement and resist build-up.

The Drill Treatment is Key

 

Ta-da! And there he is. Magic. lol.

 

OK I cleaned them last night along with the rest of the carb again just to be sure there went two more cans of carb spray. Then I put about 10oz of sea foam in a full tank of gas took it out on a 20 mile ride ran great pulled hard hit 70 in third gear no prob. Smoothed out the way the motor runs to so now I will let it sit for a day of two to let the sea foam do it's job this is my first time with that stuff. Do you guys think I should put some sea foam in the crank case? Just wanted to know if anyone done that and what they got out of it.
Thanks

 

Oh yeah almost forgot plugs started changing color to a nice tan color before they were white as snow no matter what I did and before I cleaned the tube my rpm's were at 1,100 after they were at 2,500 so I'm thinking way more gas is getting through now. Hope this can help some other people with the same prob.

 

The Emulsion Tubes being perfectly clean will give you the power that you are missing if they aren't done.
All the Metering Ports in the E-Tubes allow Main Air to enter the Center of the Tube as the Diaphragm Needle rises.
The Air breaks-up the Stream of Fuel. It also pulls-up additional Fuel.

You MUST extract and clean those Tubes to get your Carbs Clean and providing you will full performance.