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Discussion in 'Hangout Lounge' started by skeeter, May 15, 2009.

  1. skeeter

    skeeter Member

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    first and foremost - thanks to this site for being here - long time lurker, first time poster.

    last summer i picked up an '81 XJ750 Seca but other projects kept my hands off it.

    so far, with much help from this site, i've replaced the front tire, un-stuck my dragging front brakes and lately - i determined that, with a dead battery, it is normal for the engine to run ok at higher rpms but die when you let it drop down to idle.

    next on the list is check/adjust valve clearances, and (hopefully) synch the carbs.

    i also need to address an oil leak - it's the oil filter cover and i see that chacal has an aftermarket screw on attachment, so i think i will be upgrading to that at some point.

    i also have another set of handlebars i'll be swapping out at some point.

    i do, however, have a couple questions:

    1) i believe i read somewhere on here that 1982 was the first year that the seca had the YICS engine so my 1981 shouldn't have it (but there it is stamped on the side of the engine - YICS) so, did i misread? is there a place i can cross check serial numbers with manufacturing dates?

    2) i already bought a "regular" oil filter and was planning on using it for the next oil change. does anyone thing it would help (or hurt) to put a little gasket sealer on the oil filter cover to try to prevent the drip drip drip?

    oh yeah, here's a couple pics of the beast:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    please let me know if these pics don't work - i've had problems in the past where pics load ok on my machine, but other folks can't see 'em.

    and, thanks again, xjbikes for being here - you folks have already gotten me through many a problem and many a midnight shift.
     
  2. dmschuler

    dmschuler Member

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    Looks nice!

    The oil filter cover is an o-ring. I suppose it wouldn't hurt to try some rtv on the cover - don't really see why it wouldn't work.

    Valve check - it's pretty straight forward as long as you follow the writeups in the faq's section. those guys have done a great job writing the documents - helped me alot!
     
  3. wizard

    wizard Active Member

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    Hi Skeeter, welcome, are the engine & frame #s the same?
    I think you should replace 'O' rings 5&6.
     
  4. Thee_oddball

    Thee_oddball Member

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    ok skeeter.... what ya hiding in th background? :)
     
  5. skeeter

    skeeter Member

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    was planning on replacing the o-rings - glad to hear (in the bike jacking thread) that it's the most likely problem.

    looking forward to the valve check - i did them on my honda, which is not the bucket and shim type (screw and locknut type?? not sure what they're called) and was a little nervous to do bucket and shim, but after reading the awesome walk through on here, it actually sounds easier. i'm most worried about stripping the screws holding the alternator cover and i do have a tendency to get excited when reassembling things and over-torque bolts. (valve job on the honda took a week due to breaking things)

    i looked at the engine # but couldn't find the frame number. i was assuming it would be on the, uh - the part of the frame where the triple tree is connected - the yoke maybe it's called?? but there's a decal there that appears to have been rubbed off by wiring/cables (or, hopefully not but possibly, deliberately scratched off)

    hiding in the background are the wife's bikes. under the sheet is a 2007 Yamaha FZ6 and not under the sheet is a 1983 Yamaha Virago XV500K. There's also a 2003 Honda Rebel in the barn, but doesn't show up in either pic.

    oh yeah - speaking of valves - can anyone explain why clearances are prone to shrinking instead of growing? i figured the opposite would be the case (of course, the "YIKES" when i read that has really motivated me to get on them valves)
     
  6. stereomind

    stereomind Active Member

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    The valves beat themselves into their soft, aluminum seats over time, so the buckets get closer and closer to the cams, which are steel and do not wear anywhere near as quickly. That's why it's very important to check clearances at least every 5K.. If you get a tight valve, it may stop closing all the way, which would lead to its early demise.
     
  7. skeeter

    skeeter Member

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    gotcha
     

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