New cyclist with some questions

I bought a 92 XJ600s Seca II a couple of months ago with 37000 miles on it. The bike has problems but it runs alright (although I'm new to motorcycles so maybe it doesn't). I have been reading through the forums and have learned a lot already but I still have some questions.

I am replacing the regulator as soon as it gets here (presumably by monday) but still riding the bike around (just remembering to keep it above 2000 rpm at stops and to rev it before I turn it off so it will start again). Because I have to rev it at stops, I noticed that it still pulls some (very slightly) when I rev it in first with the clutch lever pulled all the way down. Does that mean the clutch is going out or that the cable needs adjusting?

Shifting is hard. I've ridden new motorcycles that just click into gear. When you go from neutral to first on my bike there is a big 'clunk' and noticeable jerk and when you go from first to second there is a lesser 'clunk' but still too hard of a jerk to forget about. I'm thinking the transmission is going out?

When I use the front brakes, there is an audible rapid clicking sound??

Lastly, the struts in the front go all the way down and bang if I bounce up and down on the seat (I only weigh 165) is there a way to adjust them?

Thanks in advance guys, I'm looking forward to tinkering and tuning!

 

not sure if your bike has air ride suspension on the front but it souds like you need a clutch cable adjustment to me.

 

Howdy Pseudonym (if that is your real name ), it sounds like your regulator isn't the problem. I'm thinking it is the battery. Have you checked the output voltage at the battery with the bike running? You should see battery voltage at idle and 14VDC over 1300 or so rpm. If the regulator was shot, you wouldn't be able to run the bike for more than an hour or so and reving it before shutdown wouldn't do a thing to help it start up.
It also sounds like you need to adjust the clutch. This will most likely take care of your creep and clunk issues.
The rapid clicking sound could be warped rotors. Do you feel any pulsations in the brake lever when stopping?
If the forks bottom out when you sit on the bike, you have problems that adjusting isn't going to fix. At a minimum, you need to service the forks with oil. Clean the insides out very thoroughly. While you are in there, you might just chuck in a new pair of fork seals.

 

Thanks guys, I already changed the battery and made sure the stator was fine, so if it's not the regulator I'm going to kick myself lol. The struts are fine for sitting but if I bounce, they will bottom. Someone told me you can charge them? And how do I adjust clutch? No pulsing when braking felt, just clicking (sounds stupid but it SOUNDS electrical. Like electrical clicking...).

Thanks again

PS this thing about putting distilled water in my battery. WTH? It says maintainance free?

 

Ok, you charged the battery but did you load test the battery? How old is it and are the cells full? Even the maintenance free cells need attention once in a while. If your regulator is overcharging, it will cook the battery so you NEED to do a voltage test right away. You can do a poor mans load test by starting the bike several times in a row, if it poops out by the 3rd cycle, I'd be concerned.
The forks should not bottom when bounced, you NEED to get oil in them!
I'm not familar with your bike so I do not know about the forks behavior or adjustment. I just know that even without air in my Seca forks, they don't bottom out being bounced.
So far, I get the impression that you don't have a maintenance manual on your machine. Get one, best investment you will ever make in the care of your bike. It'll save you money too (like not buying parts you don't need...).
The "electrical" sounding tick... that one is a puzzler. I haven't the foggiest as to what that might be. You'll have to strike up a conversation with your fellow Seca II bretheren.
Best of luck to you Pseudo.

 

Get someone to watch from behind, when you use just the front brake, is it on solid or flickering?

 

Ok thanks again guys, I tested battery, goes up when you rev but only gives 12.8 at idle. Took a look at the regulator, the plug going into it has a burnt node, guess I should replace that? Also, I'm taking it on a 300 mile highway trip on monday (I'm moving) where I will get a job and get the money to get the clymer and stuff; anything I should look at before I go? I looked in the master cylinder for the first time yesterday...black. The fluid is black. Like charcoal black lol. Is there a way to flush that out and put new fluid in?

 

I like to use a MityVac to drain/bleed brakes by myself, here's one place to get one
http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MITMV8500 ... 445&sr=8-1

Suggest taking the cover off while doing this and make sure the reservoir does not go dry.

 

This is good, your regulator isn't bad.

Ding ding ding, YES is the short answer. By node do you mean the connector pin?

Tire pressure, brake fluid, oil level. The usual stuff.

I use an old syringe to draw off the old fluid from the reservoir, then I refill the reservoir with fresh fluid and bleed the system until I get clear fluid on the other end, ensuring I don't run the reservoir dry during the process.

 

yes

So just like a car, cool.

You guys have been very helpful (especially Robert) and I appreciate it. I'll stay frequent on the forum and I'm sure I'll have more questions soon enough!

 

What's a good brand to buy for a battery tester? I'm having a battery problem also, not sure if it's stator or regulator but I have a new battery and it just died on me 2 days after I got it. Something is not recharging the battery!!!

 

The best way to fully test a battery is to take it to an auto parts store and have them load-check it. Battery testers you buy are generally just floating-ball hygrometers, they give you the specific gravity of the battery liquid but won't diagnose a bad cell.