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Replaced rear tire .. and now no rear brakes...

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by bridgecity, Jun 15, 2009.

  1. bridgecity

    bridgecity New Member

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    So I just had the tire relplaced on mr rear rim. Brought it to the shop they changed the tire and now I just finished re-installing it on my 82' XJ550 maxim.

    Problem is now when i press on my foot brake it just travels the full arc and no stoppy stoppy. What would you check first to see why its seemingly no longer activating the pads in the rear drum? Thanks all
     
  2. lostboy

    lostboy Well-Known Member

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    Re: Replaced rear tire .. and now rear brakes...

    On the end of rod that runs from the peddle to the rear there is an adjusting nut turn it in till most of the play is removed.
     
  3. bridgecity

    bridgecity New Member

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    Just adjusted the screw and all it does is raise or lower the height of the starting travel for the brake pedal. It stops but must be pressed completely down really far and your toes pointed straight at the ground. usually the pedal stops sooner than that??
     
  4. dqnjuan

    dqnjuan Member

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    This happens with mine whenever I pull the tire. Y

    ou have to reset the lever that holds on the brake at the hub. Take it off the pedal linkage and attach it to the hub. Then press it down using your hand if you can move the bike readjust til it feels good and tight when engaged then reattach your pedal linkage.
     
  5. Chorca

    Chorca Member

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    The rear brakes are really simple mechanically. A little rectangular piece rotates and pushes the shoes apart. If it's not pushing them far enough, it won't work.

    There are two adjusters on the rear brakes. One is a little screw going almost vertical right next to the pedal. That's adjusts the stop height.
    There's another screw on the back with a long spring pressing against it and a fluted nut at the other end of the spring.

    You need to rotate that fluted nut clockwise (screw it on) until the brakes have the proper stopping height. (You'll prolly hafta hold the spring in if you want to adjust it by hand because it's hard to rotate with how the nut is fluted)

    If it goes all the way in and that long spring is fully compressed, then the rear brake shoes need to be replaced, or are not sitting properly in the holder.
     
  6. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Step to the rear of the Bike with the Bike on the work stand.
    Move the Brake Arm attached to the Rod FOWARD Observing the Indicator.
    Hold the Arm Forward and READ the Pointer / Indicator.
    If the Pointer goes beyond 2/3rds ... you need new Brake Shoes.

    If the Pointer goes half way or less ... adjust Brake.
    You adjust the Brake Arm to be pulled and engage the Brake Shoes with very little travel of the Brake Pedal downward.
    Leave some free play to allow for the Brake Light to come ON BEFORE the Brakes engage.

    In some cases the BRAKE ARM needs to be removed from the SPLINED ROD and Re-Positioned a Spline or two to the rear.
    (Look on the end of the Splined Rod for a Locating Dot. The Dot should be CENTERED within the PINCH Attachment of the Brake Arm.)

    If your Bike has a Brake Pedal Height Adjuster ... (A turnbuckle-type of double threaded barrel to turn allowing the Brake Pedal Height to be adjusted; make the PEDAL HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT first.

    Adjust Pedal Height.
    Apply Brakes
    Observe movement of Rear Brake Arm
    Make adjustment to HEX Adjuster on end of Rod.
    Observe Pointer -- Beyond 2/3rds --> Replace shoes.
    In some cases:
    Loosen Pinch on Brake Arm
    Move Brake Arm to REAR on Splined Rod
    Tighten Pinch
    Adjust Rod Tension.
     
  7. ktcubed

    ktcubed Member

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    When you press down on it does the arm at the wheel move?

    Does the slined shaft move with it?

    Did you check the pads while you had the brake drum off the bike?

    Are they still in there (if you had a delaminated pad, the pad could have fallen out and all you have left is the metal part of the shoe. Would take a lot of travel to get this compressed.)

    Can't imagine that brakes were worn enough to need that much travel without you noticing they were bad before the change.
     
  8. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    This is a 550. Which means the rear wheel is adjustable fore and aft, to adjust the chain.

    First off, get the chain properly adjusted and the rear wheel properly aligned using the "tics" on the pullers and the marks on the swingarm. Torque your axle to 76ft/lbs and use a new cotter pin. Also use a new cotter pin on the torque arm stud/nut.

    Make sure, as Rick said, that the little dot on the brake cam stub is lined up with the gap in the lever.

    THEN let's see where you're at, adjustment-wise.
     
  9. ktcubed

    ktcubed Member

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    ahh yes, missed the 550
     

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