Valve surprises

I jumped in and took my valve cover off today. I have a couple of questions for anyone that might know. There is a little X in what looks like black marker between 2 bolts on both sides of the bike. The PO said valve clearances had recently been checked and the valve gasket changed, but considering the guy hadn't changed the oil or air filter or plugs in forever, I didn't take him at his word. Now, however, I am starting to wonder.

Check out these photos: The gasket is rubbery, and looks to be brand new.

Any one have any ideas?

 

They're not factory marks if that's the question; WHY a PO or his minion put them there, who knows?

 

I finished my valve clearance test today, and it looks as if only 2 are out of spec:

1) E: 0.20
I: 0.10

2) E: 0.20
I: 0.13

3) E: 0.23
I: 0.13

4) E: 0.20
I: 0.13


So, if I read the chart correctly, Intake 1 is out of spec and exhaust 3 is too. I'd like to pull the shims, but I am having difficulty getting the shim out of the bucket. I bought some zip ties, but according to the fabulous guide posted by Fitz, he's using a shim tool... do I need one of these to get the shim out?

More importantly, could this be causing the poor compression I have been experiencing? Are the valves specific? I believe my #2 cylinder was getting really poor vacuum, is there any correlation?

Thanks!

 

You can use "the zip-tie method" but even with the valve held open (by the zip tie) you will still then need to compress the bucket slightly to be able to get the shim out. This is one of the reasons I personally prefer to use the (sometimes frustrating) tool.

Those numbers point to some sort of POSSIBLE issue with #3, not #2. Valve clearances should get tighter as they wear, not looser; unless someone misadjusted this one the valve likely isn't closing completely.

Have you done a compression test on this motor recently?

 

So where can I get one of these wonder tools? And no, I haven't done a compression test, but I had a fellow come over and take a look at it, (this was a while ago when I couldn't get it to turn over) I guess he was one of those old timers, because he held his thumb over each of the spark plug holes and said, "Yep, you've got pretty good compression in all cylinders." Of course, I had no idea what that meant at the time, since I had a perfectly good compression gauge (at least I think it's good) that he didn't put much stock in. Of course, he was wearing a wife beater, sweat pants and flip flops.

 

Chacal carries the tool or ebay has them too. Not too expensive.

I have use the zip tie method without further compressing the bucket to pull shims several times. The tool is the best way to go and I have one now. But if you double up your zip as recommended you should be able to pull the shims.

 

The "thumb over the plug hole" compression test is NOT accurate enough to tell you what you need to know.

I've never used the "zip tie" method myself, so I wasn't speaking from experience.

 

Yeah, I didn't buy it either.

Well, the good news is, I removed the offensive shims! The numbers on them were 1E 275 and 3I 2.50 I have no idea what that means. All I know is that zip tie gag is the shiznit! Once I figured out where to wedge the tie, it was a matter of hanging onto those slippery little shims.

Question is, what do I do now? I think I need 270 and 255 respectively based on the measured clearance.

Yes?

 

Just for giggles, I went back and double checked all my clearances. Holy Hannah! They're all in sync! I don't think I had the cam lobes in the right positions the first time around. Just to be safe, I checked it again. Same result.

At least now I KNOW it's not my valves.. next up, compression test!

I know there was a link on here regarding the procedure... anyone have it handy? I know if I type "compression test guide" in the search engine, I'll be searching a looooong while.

 

Pretty simple

Fully charge your battery
Remove all the plugs
Unplug the TCI ( to prevent damage)
Attach the compression meeter to a cylinder
Open throttle all the way
Turn over with starter until pressure does not rise on the meter
Read the meter and repeat for the other cylinders

If the compression appears very low you can do a wet test. Put a small amount of oil in the cylinder (like a teaspoon) and repeat the test.If pressure goes up you probably have worn rings. (note probably only inspection will tell you for sure).

Spec from Haynes is 156PSI nominal - no more than 14 PSI difference between cylinders.

 

Was Valve Surprises, Now BIKE IS RUNNING

Yes, the bike is running! Reinstalled everything (although I think maybe I should have waited for a warm, dry day for the gasket sealant. The stuff dried tacky/funny, but the gasket is in place)

Now, all that's left is a good carbtune. My experience here is low, I've only done it a couple times, but of course I've never pulled my valve covers off either.

Almost there...

 

Cool it's nice to make progress isn't it?