Is my engine dead? Please help and chedck the pics...

So I managed to fit my 1982 XJ750 Maxim in the back of my SUV and drive it home suspended from the roof rack from Philadelphia and upon unloading it, I found two cracks under the cylinders. I don't know if they were there when I bought it and I was just too excited to notice or what. Can anyone enlighten me as what's cracked and if the engine is dead or what I can do? Thanks a lot!

 

i'm no expert but maybe something hit that cover/bike was dropped in the distant past? Like cover might have been replaced?
There's nothing behind that cover so barring any other damage I'd say no, but I hear it'll get pretty dirty back there.

Other than carlessly working on the engine with the cover off, what else could cause damage like that?

 

Glad to hear nothing too serious I guess. Was gonna start repainting the tank tonight, but figured I'd wait to hear the verdict. Should I try to patch it with JB Weld? Thanks guys!

 

I'm not an expert; and have no idea how that will affect performance. but I can tell you you DID NOT do that during your trip home.

the rust/corrosion on the break indicates that is an old crack.

 

yup rough up jb, sand to shape and paint away.

 

Lower Case:
JB Weld Fix

Prep COVER by attaching Wax Paper to Mating Surface with Glue Stik.
Make the wax paper nice and smooth on the surface that goes flat to the Engine Case.
Tape down folded-pretty wax paper.
Mix JB Weld
Apply to area needing repair.
Keep from falling-off by taping-over repair after the JB is put on.
Let partially cure.
While still "firm but workable"
Remove tape and SHAVE contour to match case using a Sure-Form Blade
http://store.qualitydist.net/sty-21-398.html

Remove Cover
Wax Paper prevents it from sticking

Use same technique to repair Top Engine Case.
Wax Paper Cover
Install New Bolt

Smear GREASE on Bolt
Cover smeared Bolt with single layer of Mashing tape.
Apply AntiSeise Compound to Threads.
Insert Bolt.
Apply JB Weld.
Leave Bolt in Place
Use Sure Form or Rasp to Shape "Workable" Repair
Glue 180 and 220 Sand Paper to Dowel or Broken drumstick
Sand 180
Repeat 220.

Paint:
Hobby Shop
Testors Real Color Paints
"Cast Aluminum Alloy"
(You might have to add a 1/4 of a drop of Gray. Toothpick. Let one drop fall on a 3X5 Card. Use a portion of the drop to darken the Testors Bottle.)

Remove Bolt after complete cure
You should have a situation where you created new threads too.

 

http://www.aluminumrepair.com/video_new.asp

Looks like it will do the trick nicely. There are other companies making stuff like this, such as Bernzomatic aluminum brazing rods and Alladdin 3-1 rod

 

Wowza. That looks like it could be a real savior; however I would be concerned aboout cooking adjacent gaskets. Better used if the part were off the bike. I think Rick's method is probably better in this case.

 

I have some of those Aluminum "welding" rods. You need to get a good hot surface. On larger parts this is very difficult with a propane torch. By the way Harbor Freight carries them for a reasonable price.

I'm with Fitz I would not do that part of the engine using them. If you are repairing removable part you could give it a go.

Considering the space is mostly cosmetic to balance the right side of the engine to the left the JBweld would be my choice too. Having done some JBWeld reconstruction I like Rick's method, it does tend to sag if unsupported.

 

Your damage is purely cosmetic but it indicates a drop at some speed in the bikes past. I'd check out the "true" of your handle bars and frame when you have the time (not to mention the steering bearings).

 

just wish i could get those darn phillips head screws out of mine, they are stuck like chuck!

 

Thanks so much for all your help guys! That JB Weld trick looks awesome. Glad its nothing to worry about too much. I'm leaving to go out of the country for 6 weeks soon and leaving her with a mechanic to get a full going over, I'll make sure to mention the bars and bearings. Always looking for another weekend project

 

Pictishusa, a shot of Kroil on each and a couple of whacks with an impact driver should release the hold corrosion has on those fasteners.