dont mention carbies

like, Gday. I am in the process of changing the motor and gearbox from a XJ750p wreck to my working bike. All going well so far till I get to the carby grommet removal and replacement. Manual says loosen air cleaner bolts and remove grommets. Oh yeah ?.. Ripping out teeth without aneasthetic would be more fun and easier. Well I got them out , now I have to get the damn things back in. There is obviously a trick to it. Can any one clue me in to a working procedure ?. Not looking forward to it.

 

You can slide the grommets into the airbox a bit to give more room. OF course then you have to try and fish them out when reinstalling. a bit of silicone grease helps htem slip on better. They are a tight fit no matter which way you go about it.

 

...you can also use a heat gun or a hair dryer to limber up the rubber boots, making them a bit easier to deal with.

 

Just push the boots back into the air box and get your carbs mounted back on the engine manifolds. Once you have the carbs back in place I would use a hose pick to work the rubbers around the carbs. (hose pick is like a screwdriver with a long probe with a 90 deg angle on the end)

MN

 

You can make a Tool that will help you with the Boots.

Cut yourself a foot and a half of Old CB Antenna.
Heat the end and put a 1/4 Inch - Right Angle on the End.
Heat the Right Angle and Flatten-it-out a little bit.
Dull the edges with 800 after it cools.

Use it as a "Shoe Horn" to catch the Boot Mouths and guide them around the Intake Horn.

 

Thanks fellas, I had an idea pushing them in would be about the only way to go but I didnt want to raise a sweat if there was a better way. You cant beat advice from those who have done the hard yards themselves. I find that the 750 is not all that hard to work on but I think the carby setup leaves a lot to be desired.

 

I've removed the carbs a few times on my 900. The book is right about loosening the aircleaner box bolts, and sliding it back. I have found that you can get a bit more travel from the box if you remove the front bolt completely. And installing the #1 cylinder boot first, then #4 cylinder, and 2 and 3 last. The boots have a knob on each edge, that is supposed to be lined up between the 2 knobs on each air box hole. This will set the boots in the right direction for the carbs. Some WD40 helps them go in. The clamps for the boots are about the most fiddly part of the job.