The rest of the story - Oil leaks, Ind. Lgts, Carb prob?

Ok, So I was here about two years ago asking the degree of difficulty changing the fork seals would be...THAT story is a dead issue. Here is the rest of my 1982 750 Seca story -
I decided on fine morning to change the oil and filter, which went well up to the point of trusting the local bike shop about QUANTITY. Turns out, that manifested itself in large quantities of oil exiting some part of the engine - right in front of the back wheel - as I was exiting the freeway! A little bit of fishy fishy made me decide to not take the off ramp I was on, but to go straight into the dirt and bushes at about 40 mph. NOTE TO SELF - street bikes do not do well in loose dirt! The tip over was fairly minor: New tank dent; bike wouldn't start (no lights on dash; headlight bucket trashed).
She sat for about 6 mos. I decided that I still liked her so started putting together a list of things to replace or upgrade. Front forks, headlight bucket, mirror, etc. Some of these were just crappy looking and needed to go.
The front fork job was way more involved than I expected, because of the wiring and the front brake hydrolics - but I got everything done. Newly cleaned carbs R&R'd too.
She is not well, doc. Here are her symptoms:
*Indicator lights for neutral and turn signals stay on all the time - unless the key is off. Turn signals will work, but act like the flasher is running on 6 volts.
*Will not run without the choke on almost all the way. When it does run, it has a very definite flat spot in the acceleration and it would take probably 8 miles to get up to 60 (I only drove it up and down the street).
*Has developed another(?) oil leak that leaves a huge puddle in the airbox, which I am sure would find its way to the rear tire again!
I can't think of the rest - but these are the majors. I am almost convinced that my wiring or the "crash" has something to do with the indicator lights and am leaning towards that also having something to do with the lagging acceleration (damaged advance or spark module?).
I am sure, as expert as you all seem, that the answer will not be solved in one post, so this may be the beginning of a novel - with your contribution!
Add a chapter?
Thanks for any sage guidance!
RK :?

 

Added thoughts.
Before the "off road adventure", she was running just fine - leads me to believe that the carbs were fairly well adjusted - even before I cleaned them out.
Tach does not work now, either. - Is that mechanical or electronic?

I thought I was very careful when I took all the wires apart to R&R the forks - labeled and diagrammed each one. The signal indicators and neutral light remaining on lead me to believe that something got missed - hints on which wires control these, would be helpful.

I am thinking vacuum leak on the choke needing to be on and the flat spot (between 2-5 k). Where are the most likely places to look?

The airbox has 2 lines coming from it; one to the crankcase (is that just straight through or does it have a valve in it?) and another 1/4" that just goes down to open air - right in front of the back wheel! - Is this supposed to be connected somewhere?

The sight glass is useless as it is all crapped over, is there a way to clean it without taking the engine apart OR has anybody been successful making a dipstick (I think all bikes should have one).
I hope I am being detailed enough so that any of you vetrans don't have to ask for more info - but please DO, if I am not.

Thanks again RK

 

Wow... you've got quite a bushel of problems to sort through. Number one on the list should be the oil coming into the air box, though. This is bad and will be an engine killer unless you fix it right away. Your symptoms describe the infamous stuck float disease that plagues these bikes. Your carbs need additional attention and you will also need to drain and replace your oil and filter.

Once you get that problem cured, you can move on to the other issues.

 

By the way, the capacity of the crankcase, for oil, is stamped onto the crankcase next to the oil filler. That capacity (2500cc's) is without filter change. With filter change it's 2800cc's.

The tach is electronic. It gets a signal from one of the ignition coil drive wires.

 

Gamuru,
Thanks for the reply and yea, It will be a project.
On the oil to airbox issue. It looks like the line coming up from the crankcase is a vent line and as such should not be sending actual oil into the airbox - so why is it (still too much oil?)? Oil change is first on the list. By the way, I found this forum (re oil) after I was told by the "pros" at the shop that it was 5 quarts.
I assume you mean the stuck float disease is of the carbs. I assume it also means to r&r the carbs again...I will reluctantly do that if I must, twasnt an easy easy - but it will probably be easier this time.
Ok, Tach is electronically controlled - I will check that out.
Digging IN! Thanks agin!
RK

 

Thanks SQLGuy.
I have learned a lot about this bike (bikes in general, for that matter), I guess the restoration will be even more education.
RK

 

Yeah, the fuel overfills the fuel bowl and runs into the crankcase until full. It then spills over onto the ground. The tell is real water oil.

 

This is cool and logical.
It runs crappy because the float is stuck and is flooding....into the crankcase, eventually - which causes the case to be overfilled and the excess exits through the vent tube into the airbox and then down to right in front of the rear tire. Got it! I am on it!
Thanks!

 

Ok that is in progress - taking out the carbs again too - find that sticky float.
Any guesses on where to look that would keep the turn indicator and neutral lights on? I will be working on solving that next...
Thanks guys - there is hope!

 

The light issue sounds like you've crossed wires up somewhere and are powering up the circuit. You'll just have to check all your connections and make sure you've got everything correct. Also, check your grounds, too.

Do you have a wiring diagram?

 

Yea, I have a diagram, but it is hard to follow for a nimrod like me. I am figuring it has to be where most of the connections are - in and behind the headlight (I don't think the setup is original). Guess I will just dig in. Got to get back on this baby before summer is over!
Thanks Again!