funny out of first

hello all, well been rinding finally everyday since sunday. bike is sputtering coming out of first untill about 1.5k then wham and its fine rest of the way through . well may sputters briefly in second..It also dies at the stop lights. could this be ricks infamous carb theory in motion?hmmm well keep the info coming its much appreciated.ill ride till it gets cold then check into the color tunning and pulling out the carbs.wich ill probably have to go to the stealership for a rebuild kit..good riding all and be safe..

 

Hold off on the rebuild kits until your sure you need them. Plus, the price is better at some of our linked vendors. Check out the links section.

 

ok. how about the nos oem what are these acronyms for?is it not meaning manufactor/after market. Some parts are better to use as others right...I think rick said some thing in those lines..when he was telling me about the seals in my front forks... use factory he seals he replied...not aftermarkets..is this nos =aftermarket? I know I have a lot of questions...

 

NOS = New Old Stock = Never used from back in the day.

 

OEM = Original Equipment Manufacture, more or less the same thing as NOS. And Rick is right about the fork seals, I swear by them now (too many short lived aftermarket seals).

 

Sorry, I disagree Robert, OEM is not the same as NOS.
NOS could be some aftermarket copy that's never been sold, collecting dust somewhere. It's still new, is old stock, but may not be OEM.

 

I still never got an answer about it getting sluggish on the high end of the gears. I wonder if the car oil I put in there is making the clutches slip. even though I changed after i got it to running..I dont know seems like new problems are poppin up all the time. way home last night the lights quit working..I jiggled the key and they came back on except for the 2 back tail lights but the blinkers worked though...I think im going to try to enroll in some vocational classes..and then go from there..well off to work have to drive the truck drats..Taillights=2blinker lights parking lights?

 

Jiggling the keys brought them back..?

Your best bet may be a priest...

Seriously though, I would pull the front headlight and check the connectors there. Most of problems stemmed from crummy connections in the headlight and poor grounding.

I thought that only one electrical circuit was tied to the lock, and I'm really not sure how jiggling the keys could cause one circuit to fail but not another.

Sorry I can't be more help - reply when you get it figured out, I would be interested in what you find!

 

right now im interested in the bike being sluggish on the top end of the gears..its strong and then when it gets to the higher rpms it gets to sputtering it still moving up but at a sluggish rate..well i have and ideal on the lights..I think housing on the ignition switch is broke on 1 side where it fastens down..so it shorts the lights if not wedged to a firm postion ..yes i said wedged lol later have to go..ill chek back on when i get off work...

 

Jiggling keys to get a circuit to function tells me your slider board connections (at the bottom of the mechanical switch) are either corroded or the solder connections are going bad. Pull the switch, release the bottom lock mechanism (observe how everything comes apart, if you don't you'll be sorry!) and clean up the board/wiper.

 

Higer rpms in any gear? What position of the throttle, 1/2 or wide open?
Could be the TCI craping out, could be fuel supply to the carbs, or dirty carb problems.

If you have a broken ignition switch, get it replaced, or glue it up or something! You're only looking for problems leaving broken with a wedge holding it together!

 

I orderd anew one today..I think these bikes run on the baterry and the continuity is being broken at the ignition switch, at the higher rpm the switch begins to rattle and breaks the continuity of the circuit?does thatsound like mad ramblings or what?..well we will see I called the stealership and put in and order..got to go pay for it then wait for it..ill let you know how it turns out could be awhile though..

 

I finally got a day off. I pulled my plugs #3 is fouling..I have cheap plugs in..that soon will change..#1 what is the best plug to use ..#2 does that mean that my #3 carb is to rich or needs adjusting? when i try to adjust the idle up by the front break it never stays a constant it revs up and down by itself trying to dial it out at 1or 1.5k but i cant seem to keep it constant..well any input would be valuabal RICK......LOL WELL GIVE ME A SHOUT

 

ridz, you adjust the idle down at the carbs not up at the brake lever.

The adjuster up top is just to take the slack out of the cable, not ment for adjusting the idle.

Look for the knob between the center two carbs float bowls, that's the idle adjuster.

 

Ridz
#1 There are several good plugs out on the market. In my experience, NGK's are what my bike likes. There are several testimonies here on the forums to advocate AutoLite, Champion, and a few others but the point I'm going to make is what does the manufacturer recommend? My Owners handbook calls out for either NGK or NipponDenso for my ride. Check with your handbook.
#2 Over-rich fuel mixture on only #3 would indicate an adjustment is in order for that carburetor.
Last but not least, Nick is right on the money Ridz, your adjustment for idle should be done with the idle knob between the carburetor banks, not the brake handle. Get that straightened out right away.