AARRRRRGGGHHHH!! What did I screw up now!!??

Ok, was replacing my shims. Everything was going ok until I get to #2 intake, even then nothing seemed wrong until I rotated the engine to place the shim tool on #1 intake.

The engine LITERALLY spit out #2 intake shim. Ive tried the 3 other 270 shims I have and the same thing...PATOOEEEE!!

So what did I screw up and if thats what happens trying to do maintenance then maybe motorcycles arent my thing either....


WHAT DID I DO???

 

You aren't getting the shims seated properly in the top of the bucket.

Possibly a bit of FOD of some sort is trapped on top of the bucket. With the bucket held down and the shim out, take a q-tip and a flashlight and clean the top of the bucket. Slather the new shim with oil and when you put it in, make sure it "pops" down into the top of the bucket; you'll see the oil squeeze out. It's easy to get the side you can see in and have the side you can't see still sticking up in the air.

I don't think you actually screwed anything up.

 

Ok...Ill go look now...wish me luck!!!

 

Welp, color me done. Its still spitting those shims out as pretty as you please.

I dont know WHAT I did, and Ill never be able to do that again because of it. Im not screwing up another engine.

So looks like Ive got a $350 basket case and $1300 worth of tools and parts.

Anyone out there have a decent 750cc maxim engine that will fit in an 80 650 frame.....what would it cost and what would shipping to 97021 be?

I MIGHT be able to use my works UPS account.

 

Dead were you the one that removed the shims and rotated the engine? If so you may have damaged the bucket.

I think worst case you need a new bucket or 2. Of course this means pulling the head and you might as well lap the valves etc but not the end of that engine for sure.

 

Well...Ive calmed down some now. I realize that its not the engine...however, at this point I do not want to do the engine on the piece of plywood and tarp I have for a work space right now.

If I rebuild it, I want to have my shed built. Im looking at buying another 650 with about the same amount of miles and using that engine for right now in my frame. Then when I rebuild this one....I can put it back and ....well anyway.

Im still a little bummed, but coming out of it.

 

Even if the bucket is damaged, you only need pull the camshaft to replace the buckets, not the whole head. The buckets just sit in there.

Just don't mix up the cam caps; and be careful with the cam chain timing.

 

Oh? This is sounding better, Ill sit down with my haynes manual and read what it has to say.....maybe with some more sleep it wont seem the disaster it seems now.

Thanks for the cooler heads guys.

 

Wipe the Bucket with a Tissue.
If the Tissue "Tears" ... look for a Gouge that may need treatment.
Wipe the Top of the Bucket >> Clean & Dry.
Same for the Shim.

Examine the Shim for any evidence it might have been "Grinded"

Use a Bubble Syringe to evacuate the Shim Bucket.

Mic the Shim for correct O-D

 

Take a deep breath it isn't that bad. At least you have the air head engine. On my X you have to pull the cams to get ot the pads(they aren't shims on the liquid motors) Pulling the cams is not bad. But you do need a torque wrench to properly re-assemble. I took an old shoe box and put the cam caps in order on the box so everything stayed in its place. It is less than a 6 pack job if you drink. If not still less than a 6 of soda. Just relax and take your time. Even if you got another motor with similar miles you'd have to do the same thing to it. I wouldn't run a donor motor wihtout checking everything out.

 

*INHALES*.....

Ok, Rick, when I cleaned the bucket out with a Qtip, it did pull some of the cotton threads....am I right thinking the Shims need to be 39mm od?

And.....since its an intake bucket, I would only have to remove the intake came right? And even then I wouldnt need to take it all the way out would I?

Just make sure Im at TDC on the mark on the side before I try to remove anything?

And I just MAY go for that 6 pack.

Again thank you for all the encouragement guys!

 

29mm is the correct OD. And some Suzuki shims are also 29mm OD (just like Yamaha shims), but they have a bevelled side edge that does not allow them to fit properly into Yamaha shim buckets. The Yamaha shims have straight, 90-degree perpendicular edges to the faces.

 

thanks for the tip - i was planning on buying some shims from a local suzuki dealer (there is no local yamaha dealer).

 

You can undo the Cam Caps and Lift-up the Cam >> A Little Bit << to Swap-out a Valve Bucket Shim.

You MUST Be Careful.
My advice is to ... Loosen and remove the Cam Cap Bolts ... One at a time ... and REPLACE the Bolt with a LONGER ONE that will ALLOW you to LIFT the Cam >> But << Prevent the Camshaft from Escaping its Relative Position and causing the AUTOMATIC CAM CHAIN TENSIONER from taking-up the Slack of an errant move.

IF ... The Cam Chain Tensioner detects Slack and the Pawl moves out to adjust for that Slack ... That's all she wrote!

You'll have to REMOVE the Tensioner.
Easy.
Manually release the Jaw.
Simple.
Slide the Tensioner back too the Start Position.
No Problem.
Make a Gasket.
Not too hard.
Apply Sealant and replace the Tensioner.
With Carbs OFF >> Difficult.
With Carbs ON >> Twilight Zone two crotch-hairs short of Impossible.

Move the Cam ... Only as far as you need to ... to release the Shim.
Don't leave the Cam out of the Bearings.

http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1/pa ... 45198.html

 

Oh thanks Rick!

Should I have it at TDC before I do this? Or does doing it like this forgo the need to do tha?

Do not the '80 xj's have a manual cam chain tensioner? Just asking because maybe that will not be such a worry?

I have the engine sitting on a stand I made with the carbs off....

 

85Maxim I must have editted it out, but I want to thank you, and BigFitz!

and OOOOHHH CHACAAAALLLL....how much are your shim buckets??? do you carry them?

 

Since the motor is out and the carbs are off, I would simply remove the cam chain tensioner and avoid the "fight" that Rick describes.

Then you can perform the rest of the procedure pretty much as he describes it without having to deal with keeping the tensioner under control.
Even if you have the "manual" tensioner (has a bolt/locknut on the right side) I would take it out, and take the opportunity to change the gasket.

 

Sounds like it will a bit easier than I thought. I didn't realize the buckets just sat on top. Good luck with it and keep us posted

 

Ok...have read through all of this thread again...sorry for the panic, guess thats what happens when your tired and worried you've screwed the pooch.

Thanks again for jumping in all of you and I will keep you posted.

*ROLLS UPS SLEEVES*