85 maxim x brakes

Front brakes, and they suck, absolutely suck.

I replaced, as in bought a new one, master cylinder, replaced the front brake lines, rebled with new DOT3 and they still suck! Wondering if it is worth it to go to the dealer and get 2 new sets of pads.

And if that doesn't fix the problem am I in for new or rebuilt calipers?

 

After I re-built my calipers & MC, replaced all of my lines with stainless steel, I bled my brakes for what seemed like days till I got it right. I had the MC top off and kept bumping the throttle grip with my fist to shake any air bubbles up to the top of the line. I'd tap, tap, tap about 20-30 times then, slowly squeeze the brake grip in then, out, watching for air bubbles to rise to the surface from the two small holes at the bottom of the resivior. Even after I was only getting micro-bubbles, I would let her sit for a bit then, go back at it again. I was very surprised at just how much air was in there. You can also wrap the banjo bolts with a rag, squeeze the grip then loosen the bolt to get at any air trapped near them. Some on correct me but, I think you should start with the bolt farthest from the MC and work your way back. Keep at it, you'll get it done right, it just takes time and perserverance.

Cheers
Ken

 

btw, the pads are NOS as in original, 24 y.o. pads.

 

If you are having issues getting a good bleed, give the mityvac a try. It works like a champ.

If you haven't pulled off the calipers and taken them apart, I would do that first. Brake fluid gets gummy over time. Mine were a mess, and once I got them good and clean, I had pretty good braking. Before that, it was pretty horrendous. If you find your caliper piston is stuck, an air compressor shooting air into them works pretty well to free the pistons.

 

You NEED good Front Brakes.
Clean and Rebuild the Calipers
New Caliper Seals
(Make sure you thoroughly clean the "Channel" that the Caliper Piston Seal fits in. Be a Dentist. Perfectly Clean.)

Reassemble using Clean Brake Fluid as lube.

Test the Master for ability to sustain Hydraulic Pressure.
Plug the Output and see if the Lever gets firm or fluid shoots-up through the tiny filler hole.

If the Master acts like "Old Faithful" and squirts-back Fluid ... throw a Kit in the Master Cylinder.

New Brake Pads (Performance Brand)
Bleed
Feel Better
Stainless lines Mod
Feel even better than that!

 

+1. And pitch the 24-YO pads right away.

If you want modern-bike stopping power, start with stainless steel lines (after everything else is rebuilt.)

But those calipers gotta come apart.

 

After the steel lines which will make a lot of difference, you might want to consider something other than regular organic pads if you wantt tire locking stopping. Organic pads are designed to last the longest and not to damage the rotors. Mind you , if you step up to a semi-mettalic or even a ceramic, it will eat away at your rotors and they will need to be replaced down the line also because of them.