Ugh, speedo probs

I hate sealed units. The speedo is one of them.

I had one of the face screws back out. Now it's rattling around at the bottom. Since it's sealed, I guess I'm going to have to cut the case open, pull the mechanism out and epoxy the case back together.

:evil:

 

That's not how I'd handle it. I'd drill a hole right above the empty screw hole just big enough for the screw to fall out of, then with a magnatized screwdriver put it back in place. Then I'd seal up the hole.

 

Well, it turned out to be pretty simple, here's a series of pics I took while working on it.

First up is the saw cut, 0.6" from the bottom edge.

 

Cut finished, speedo in half.

 

A bit of loctite, on both screws, just to be sure. And it's back to how it's supposed to be.

 

While it's open, a dab of lube should help things out. The factory lube had all but disintegrated, and was pretty nasty.

 

Putting some on the other gear. Make sure to wipe any slop off the tenths wheel.

 

Reattach the bottom, with a bit of loctite to be safe.

 

Halves together, ready for expoy.

I made the red lines before the saw cut was complete, so I'd have something to line up on. Some duct tape is holding it steady for the night, I have to get some epoxy in the morning.

I'll epoxy the exposed cut, then when that's dry, I'll remove the tape and seal that.

 

All together, front view.

Make sure to wipe out any "sawdust" from the inside, and clean the lens for good measure.

Once it's epoxied, it'll be ready to reinstall.

 

Very ingenius, my hat is off to you! "To boldly go where no one has gone before" I think says it all!

 

Great job on the show 'n tell SecaGirl.

 

Bravo; SecaGirl.

A job like that is all the way, right up to the top of the "Clever and Uniquely Ingenious Restorationist's" tree."

Some jobs require brute strength. Others, a generous amount of time, dismantling assemblies put together with dozens of fasteners and going at it "By the book."

It's the greats, with the ability to confront unusual problems, and devise an innovative technique that solves the problem, that places the innovator in the category of highest regard.

The one with the shortest word to describe their talent and ability.

"Pro!"

You're a real Pro!

 

No nail polish? . good job..

 

That works pretty well except for all the plastic chips that go everywhere. I found a way that I like better, cutting throught the black ring at the bottom and popping the ring and the glass off. Then you don't have a mess and only one small place to glue back.
The big unanswered question though is why are you still using a speedo that only goes to 80?
BTW, you should spray the odometer with WD-40 so it doesn't stick while you have the whole thing apart.

 

Because parts cost money, which I don't have. I can repair what I have for almost nothing.

 

I just joke about it ...

When some youngster admires the bike and then asks about the speedo only going up to 80 ... and, thinks the bike will only go that fast ... I tell them:

"That's not 80 miles per hour ... it's 80 miles a MINUTE!"

(although I'd really like a 140 or 160 speedo -- the lopped-off bottoms of the stock arrangement just about require a complete instrument panel swap. I'll do it --- what fits real nice?)

 

Well, all that work was for nothing but a nice how-to.

The speedo was never smooth, and always had a bounce to it. Lubing the cables helped some. But over 40ish mph, it would still bounce. But I really didn't have much choice when I cut it open, with the screw out, the face was starting to slip and hide the odo.

I guess the magnet lost some of it's strength, plus there was some "dragging" in the bearings that supported the spinning parts. So even after going back together, I was hoping it'd live for a while. It didn't.

Today during a ride up the canyon, the bouncing got pretty bad. The poor needle was taking the worst of it. Eventually, after flailing itself against the 80mph stop pin, it broke off. :evil:

The worst part is that it worked itself down into the housing and is jumping around making enough noise to be heard at highway speeds. :? Looks like I'll be doing a dash rebuild with a mini-speedo. Look for that project later.

 

Well you can't say you gave it a great try, great pictorial anyway!!
Sounds pretty loud if you can hear it while cruising!

Found this on ebay.... 5 days, 20 hrs to go.... starting at $ 19.95
Listed as " Yamaha XJ 650 XJ650 Seca 1982 complete dash cluster "

 

Thanks, that looks like it's in good shape, but it's a km/h unit, and US models also didn't have a shift light.

I think a nice custom dash rebuild is in order. The biggest hurdle will be keeping the reed switch that cancels the turn signals. It's mounted into the back of the speedo.

This should match up nicely with the fender elimination I have planned.

 

Perfect!

The KMH display will allow you to do the 3rd-Lane-Zoom with 85 MPH traffic and let you pretend you're going around a-hundred-fourty-five!

 

Nice work A far better job than i would have expected.
However there IS an easier way
Just unbend the bent over bit of the Clock's Bexel (the thiMetal ring holding on the glass. Use a duckbill plier and take yer time.. 15 mins and it should be open and apart. To reseal just gently tap over the Ring mtal.. Not perfect but reasonably close to it.

 

What metal ring? Haven't seen many Seca speedos, eh?

Take a close look at the pics, the black plastic is sealed to the white plastic. Speedos are sealed, and not easily opened for a good reason. If you ever see the guts of one, you have to do some damage to get into one.

 

Most Yamaha speedos (except for the Seca I guess) have a black metal ring around the outside that seals the glass to the plastic body. If you get a 120, 140 or 160 MPH model to replace the old one it will have a metal ring.

 

Whoaaa.. easy on the Anger ..
Trying to Help.. not show ineptitude.
You Will fin that most Yamaha Clocks are Brothers if not identical twins, only exceptions that I've seen are those loccks encased in those Chrome Cans and odds re good that they are the same inside their shiny cases.
EASY to follow photo lesson (not mine) It works.. by the way.
http://home.comcast.net/~p51bombay/new_page_39.htm

 

There's some differences. My 900's instrument panel is odd. There's a speedo, tach and digital clock. They're covered by one single 3-windowed raster.

The material used in the windows are fused right to the raster. Replacing an instrument window is neuro-surgery. Cutting and sanding the old window out takes forever. Placing the new, real, glass one in to replace a yellowed or cracked one is a challenge I haven't perfected yet; but, I'm getting close.

If you need new glass for your instruments ... this place is where to go:

http://www.timesavers.com/

They have the correct fitting glass in both flat or concave.

 

On my 82 Maxim when the speedometer kicked the bucket my flashers quit turning off. I have to do it manually. Could this be why ?

 

The way I understand it. There is a speed sensor at the top of the speedo unit. If you open it up it can be seen. It is the long skinnt pick up over the magnet on the top of the speedo housing. I believe it has two wires going to it. Any way that sends pulses to the auto canceling unit for the blinkers to turn them off. so yes that may be the reason you auto cancel does not function anymore. If you want to read more about it try a search on led turn signals. Someone is trying to build a new auto cancel unit to accomodate the led turn signals.

 

Thanks for the info ! I see you're from Colo Springs. I used to live there. I worked for Tri-City Drywall. My dad lives off the Baptist Rd exit. Sure miss those mountains !

 

I did this with my speedo and tach. They had dirt on the inside of the glass and I wanted to clean it out. Started with the little black ring thing, but saw that the metal was splitting so just hammered it back down and took out the saw. While in there, I broke the speedo needle, so I did a Rickcomatic fix (toothpic and epoxy) and painted the "redlines" and new pointer and old pointer with flourescent orange model paint.

When back together my previously over reading speedo (about 5 over) was now dead on. My tach however, is now not reading correctly...or possibly it was way off before and now is reading correct...will have to verify, but this is do-able.