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Busted bolt

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by tcoop, Sep 18, 2009.

  1. tcoop

    tcoop Active Member

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    Got the parts from Chacal yesterday to repair the broken chain guide. Already had the case apart so things were moving along, removed the broken part put the new one in, finally got everything to line up while putting the case back together, hand tightened the bolts add then proceeded to tighten and torque the bolts in order going about a quarter turn for each one (going by what the book said for torque). By this time it’s about 1:30 AM. I get to bolt #23 and SNAP... :x :(

    So now I need to re-open the case and pull out the offending bolt. What is the best way to keep from getting the drill shavings from getting into the gears and crank or do I need to pull all the gears and the crank to repair this?

    Also should I replace all the bolts or is that overreacting?

    I think I should stop wrenching at midnight...only bad things happen when I'm tired.
     
  2. Billt1969

    Billt1969 New Member

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    I'm not familiar with bolt #23 but in my line of work I've had to remove a lot of busted bolts. Even though the head popped off the remaining stud may be loose. Can you get at it with some small needle nose plyers or side cutters or is it too far below the surface.. Sometimes a small prick punch or screwdriver can be used to tap on the edge to get it out far enough to get a hold of it. Good luck.
     
  3. tcoop

    tcoop Active Member

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    Unfortunately it’s below the surface. I will try your suggestions but it looks like I need to drill and use an extractor to get it out.

    I‘ve got to learn to take my time when putting it back together but I just want to ride again.
     
  4. Robert

    Robert Active Member

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    New bolts are always a darn good idea but I must ask if you were torquing dry or with a drop of oil on the threads? If you ran them dry, odds are good that you will get bad readings. A drop or two of oil (****Unless specified otherwise, and there are cases where this is possible***) helps the threads smoothly guide and seat, helping get a good torque.
    Tcoop, use lots of clean rags (count them as you stuff and drape them around the area you are working in, it will help you make sure you don't leave any of them behind after cleanup!) and pack the area around the where the bolt broke off as well as drape the rest of the uninvolved but still vulnerable innards. Use tape and mask it all off. You can use plastic sheets/bags as well. Let's hope that it comes out easily and with minimum fuss. Good luck.
     
  5. Billt1969

    Billt1969 New Member

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    Dealing with drill chips is scary... for future reference I bought some extractor bits I found at a local hardware store. You don't have to actually drill out the center of the bolt. They are ISOMAX Spin-It-Out http://www.eazypower.com/shop/ They're like a reversed center drill. I just center punched the stud and the bit screwed it write out.
     
  6. tcoop

    tcoop Active Member

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    Thanks Robert. I didn't think of stuffing it with rags. Is there and sprey that can be used to flush anything that did get i in there?
     
  7. Robert

    Robert Active Member

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    I would avoid trying to flush any debris you manage to shed, this most likely will lead to it ending up in places you will have to pull the engine apart to get at. Best bet is to clean the area prior to isolating it so that you have a clean, dry surface so that the masking tape has a chance to grip to the case. You will always have some chips float out (you will be using a lubricant if you value your bits) but that is why you pack rags around the work area. When finished, vacuum the area and remove the rags, finishing it off with alcohol (or solvent of your choice) and cotton swabs to perform final cleanup.
    Clear as mud, right?
     
  8. schmuckaholic

    schmuckaholic Well-Known Member

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    Might I suggest using a vacuum and an extra set of hands to suck out the shavings as the hole is being drilled?
     

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