HALP! bike won't start after clubman bar swap!

So I finally got my clubmans on, and the controls are obviously quite a bit stiffer now that the cables are at more angles.

But the bike won't fire! It cranks and cranks, with the choke on and off, but will not fire!

What is my problem? Bike started perfectly when I parked it last night.

 

Colin,
Remove your tank and make sure, that all the cables are moving freely. Make sure your throttle cable isn't too tight or keeping the throttle plates open. Try priming the carbs first, set the petcock on PRi and try again. just apply slight choke not all the way.

 

I let the bike dry with the plugs out, and tried starting with no throttle.

I'm getting a couple sputters of life, (like one cylinder fires) and then nothing again.

I'll go check the tank.

 

the throttle is fine, but I noticed that the choke wasn't going off when I had it off, I move the lever, cable moves, but the actual choke mechanism stays put. I pushed it down, and am wondering if maybe the plugs are fouled, so I'll be back to go see if schuck's has the NGK's I need.

 

Check your Engine Stop switch and make sure it isn't that simple.
I got my Maxim cheap that way.
The kill switch will let the motor spin but won't allow the coils to fire.

 

engine switch wasn't the problem.

I replaced the plugs, bike fired instantly, revved the SHIT out of itself, then I turned it off almost immediately, worried that the throttle plate was way open.

The throttle is as slack as it can go. there's free movement in the cable length, and the idle is set as low as humanly possible.

But after cranking a few more times with no firing (no choke) the plugs reek of petrol, and are wet with it.

Something is causing the bike to flood, and I can't figure out what.

Going to let the bike sit with the plugs out for 20 minutes and then try firing it up again. I think all that massive cranking with bad plugs, no spark, and a ton of fuel going into the cylinder, It's just so flooded that the plugs need to be out so the gas can somewhat evaporate.

 

I think you don't have your "choke" (enrichening circuit) linkage put back together right.

Be aware that TOO flooded can actually kill a set of plugs if they become saturated with gasoline.

 

Okay, bike starts every time now, but it instantly starts idling at 6000.

The throttle plate is barely open, if at all. the cable has plenty of slack...

What the hell is going on?

The choke isn't really the problem, the plate the cable connects to lays flat against the carb.

 

I think the throttle plate is open, but I can't get it to go any further down...

The C clip on the carb link for the throttle plates should be facing up, right? it's facing around 9-10 o'clock, and I can't get it to release any higher.

How do I go about doing this without removing the gas tank? I don't have the ability to do that (reading about removal in the manual is just confusing. do I -have- to drain the tank every time?)

I also removed and moved around the handlebars to see if position had anything to do with it, it didn't affect it at all.

 

I think I've got it traced to the throttle control itself. But I stripped a screw and now I can't take the thing apart again.

fark. I need to figure out how to get a completely stripped screw out when the easy out itself is stripping from my drill.

 

Alright, got the throttle cable off, and the bike idles just fine when it's not connected to the handle. But as soon as I connect it to the handle and set it into place, it's just a TINY bit too tight, and opens the throttle plate.

What the hell is going on? does anyone think that removing my fuel tank might show me something I may be missing?

 

Getting the tank off is easy. You do not need to drain it. Just make sure the petcock is NOT in pri.

Disconnect the two tubes from the petcock. (Mark them or remember them). There is a clip under the tank where it meets the seat. Pull the clip back and the tank comes up in the back (watch the front doesn't hit the bars) then wiggle it while pulling backward. It will slide free. This will definitely free up some visual room.

 

FINALLY! success! I took a serrated knife and simply shortened the rotation that the spindle on the handle needed, which gave me just the right amount of slack!

Bike purrs like a kitten again, instead of screaming its head off every time you touch it.

If this mystery problem ever resolves itself, it only took off enough to where I can easily dial it in with the thumbscrew.

So, boys and girls, if your throttle cable is a quarter inch too short for some odd reason, just open up the throttle hand control (3 screws on the bottom) and pop out the handle itself. saw/drill/dremel/file a bit of the "runner" that the cable follows along the handle's edge that nests in the control bed, and reassemble!

 

I pulled it tight both ways before doing surgery, and there is no kink in the line. This was too weird 8O

Whomever mentioned that this was a three minute job should have just seen my 12 hour ordeal.

 

Glad you got it going again. I've been there, something so simple yet out of sight. LOL

 

wow seems like alotta clubman bars going on these bikes huh? I just swapped to clubmans yesterday and minus going to the store for some new grips it was a 40 min swap. right after the swap with no adjusting mine wouldnt start either, turned out to be the throttle was partailly open. Loosened the cable and VIOLA! Now however i notice a bit of front end wobble over rough bumps and it will now start to wobble if i take my hands off the bars, with the stock bull bars i could ride hands free all day as long as i had an open lane. Any ideas?
[
shameless pic

 

I noticed the front end is a lot more skittish, but that's to be had from the fact that your arms have less leverage over the front forks. just gotta stiffen yourself up.

The vibration from the front with hands off I noticed too.

The bike decided to stop starting today, too. I'm going to arizona, but I'll take the tank off and rerun the lines when I get home.

 

I don't have any wobble issues with my bike, I can let go and the bike won't be skitish. Might be that when you let go you're not balanced right since you're leaning forward now instead of sitting straight up.

The only thing I noticed with my swap was the vibration on my handlebars, I solved this problem by filling the ends of the bar with bird shot pellets. Just the end of the bars not the whole thing.

 

I also did not notice any change in behavior (except I can really grove turns now). Of course, COM (Center of Mass) is shifted significantly forward with these so previously hidden issues may show up because of this.

 

It looks like there's a problem with the front wheel. I'm not sure about how it's held into place, but there's a hole in the spindle where I'm assuming a cauter pin goes.

dunno.

Anyways, off to peel my !@$!@$#$%$ing tank off and rerun my clutch and throttle cables.

Hey xulf, did you end up bypassing the antidive system when you switched to the SS lines and bypassed the 1 into 2 that sits in the middle of the bike?

 

Poprider,
There is a cotter pin that goes on the left side (clutch side) of the bike on the spindle. The other side stays with nothing, it's held by the pinch bolt and nut on the fork.

I did not bypass my antidivesystem, I ran one hose per side to where the caliper goes and then a new hose from the caliper to the antidive system.

 

eeeeeeenteresting. Got any pictures of the return line?

 

Poprider:
You have a 750 seca right?
Then it's the stock set up, the only thing that I have different is: one brakeline from each caliper going straight to my master cylinder. the rest is the same as stock.

 

So I took my tank off to ACTUALLY run the throttle the right way, and got it fixed.

So how am I supposed to run the clutch to stop the completely unusable-ness of it? I thought it was okay, but turns out it's rock solid and I have to shift with no clutch at all.

Also, the clutch is slipping, indicating that I have too much tension on the line.

How did you reroute it, xulf?

(and yes, my bike is identical to yours)

 

Poprider:
I ran my clutch on the right side of the frame, instead of crosing over onto the left side of it. You have to run it on the right side of the frame, then over the reflector towards the frontthen turn towards the clutch lever after you go over the front of the frame.



You can sorta see it on that picture above. See how it comes fromt he lever and then see the part where it going down by the right side?

Wait, this one is better:



See now? how it goes straight out of the lever onto the right side of the frame instead?

 

On this other photo you can see how you would run the cable on the right side of the frame, But this photo was when I hadn't quite figured out the best routing, so omit the part where you see the clutch cable going behind the handlebars there, just go around the front. If you do it like in this photo the clutch lever won't be smooth. Just use this photo for reference as to how the cable runs on the right side of the frame.



Also, On my bike now. I have removed those side reflectors.

On this later photo you can see right in front of the tank how the cable routes towards the front of the frame just behind the headlight.

 

sweet, I'll go try that. as it is now, my clutch is so stiff it's almost unusable. And it's also slipping.

Awesome, routing it around to the right ate up ALL of that annoying slack. Now it won't slip at all, and is perfectly mushy again.

And adjusting the brake lever got it much more tolerable, too.

So, next on the list is gauges (going to be asking a ton of questions about that) since I broke my cluster last night :lol: And then getting that R6 master cylinder mounted!

I'm thinking about running a custom setup to keep the square headlight. Making the bike still "feel" 80's while keeping it very cafe. Any thoughts?

 

Xulf13, that is a hot-looking bike. Very nice.

 

I don't really like the square light set up. I ended up modding my brakes gauges and handlebars, just because I could not stand the square headlight. All my upgrades (brakes) were a result of my headlight swap. But if you like your headlight, then you like your headlight. I would like to see how it will turn out, but am not sure if it will look good.

Midnight stalkerman,: thanks for the compliments.

 

Worse to worse, not like it's going to cost me anything to try :lol:

 

Mgram, I'm sure if you replace that front tire your wobble will go away!

 

Streetmaster: that chrome piece is for sale at mikesxs.com, I think it's adirect bolt on, on the 650 secas, for sure on the xs mdels. In my case I had to grind away at some of the metal on my tripple tree in order for this oiece to fit. I used a dremmel tool and a grinder to do that.