Carb rebuild prep work?

Howdy

I'm going to be tearing apart my carbs this weekend and hopefully re-installing the airbox. Can anyone give me some tips on prep work/tools needed? Don't worry, there will be plenty of pics of the disaster that's sure to follow.

 

Patience and organization are the first tools you will need to find! Then...

I bought 8 cans of spray carb cleaner, 2 for each carb.

Compressed air to blow out the circuits after they have been thoroughly cleaned.

float bowl gaskets X 4

I ground down a flat screwdriver so that it would fit the main and pilot jet and not tear them up.

I used a 10mm 1/4" drive socket with a 1/4" drive handle to remove the float seat. You don't want to torque it too tight on the reinstall, so the 1/4" handle minimizes the torque.

I converted all the JIS "Phillips" screws to Stainless Steel allen head cap screws. I think it looks better.

I had a devil of a time gettting the air box out! And even more of a hard time getting it back in! My original one was damaged, so I had to replace it.

It seems that the airbox is placed in its cavity BEFORE the motor is installed. And I found that if the airbox were warm, it was a little easier to contort to get it back in. It might also help to minimize cracking it.

Just as a side question, why are you even taking the airbox out? You don't have to when cleaning carbs.

 

Is there a specifice torque for the for the float seat?

 

get yourselft some aluminum foil cupcake pans, like 4-8 with 6 cups each. Set two next to each other and you can keep all of the parts from the four carbs seperate, and can even use them to soak certain parts in carb cleaner, etc.

Some airboxes are easier to get in than others. Put your bike model and year in your signature. If your bike came without one, read all there is on the forum regarding how to get it back in without taking off the engine (I already had the engine out, so it was a nobrainer for me), and beware of the intake boots, if you choose to take them off to add clearance. I had no trouble with mine, but not everyone is so lucky!

 

The torque spec for the float seat is...

Just tight enough to keep it from buzzing loose. A little past hand tight has always worked for me.

Keep in mind you are screwing in a brass piece into an aluminum piece. There is all kinds of stripping waiting to happen if you go torque-ing it down like an axle nut!

 

Currently my Seca is airboxless. The old owner removed it and installed pods. I bought an airbox and carb boots off ebay but if it's too much trouble getting it in I may just keep the pods.

People say you can just tilt the engine forward, but how is this possible with shaft drive?


Thanks for the tips!

 

I never thought about tilting the engine forward, but to do that you'll have to unbolt it and disconnect the drive shaft. If you still can't get it in, you're half way to taking the engine out anyway! My 750 seca engine seemed pretty cozy in it's cradle...so good luck!

 

i sure hope the neighbors dog left that wet spot under your bike and not an oil leak.