how do you get the darn brake fluid sensor out?

i spent an hour wrestling out the seca 750 mc and how I can get the sensor out, grr, I took out the two clip pins outside and inside, and still cant get it to budge... i dont want to break it... any ideas?

 

The smartest thing you said is: "I don't want to break it."

It was pressed in 30 years ago. There's an O-ring holding the piece tightly and fluid tight.

Why remove it?
If it's good and isn't leaking ... leave it alone.

If it's BAD and you intend to replace it ...
Make sure you have the NEW one, in the bag, on your bench, ... before you put the muscle to the Old one that's not leaking and will allow you to use the MC without a Sensor.

Removal: (Bad)
Place the MC on a piece of of flat "Soft Wood" --> (Pine)
Cut the wiring away,
Place a matching Diameter Deep Socket over the Part.
Begin striking the Socket with SOFT Impact ... increasing the force if the Impact until the Part comes free.

Without cutting the wires:
Twist the wires together.
Secure them with tape.
Fold them into the Socket.
Cut them leaving room to splice removed ends if they dont fit inside the socket.

 

oh man....

no one responed for over an hour... so i go looking at it and I saw the washer type thing at the bottem, kept workin on it thinking it was gummed up, now theres about 1/8 free play... SOB

now from what I can tell I'm going to have to dig into the headlight cluter mess and unplug it F&$@

on the other hand, i dont think it works... I've had the system drained for about 4 days now, and the warning light for it has never come up telling me its low... so maybe ill cuz the wires and live with it.... man

I sure hope theres a silicone resistant to brake fluid

as they say, patience is a virtue...

 

Did you TEST the Sensor by Manually raising and lowering the Float?

 

no sir :cry: (looks at feet)

 

kk well rick, I dont feel so bad now, its shot, it thinks its always full, i moved the float down, up, and took it out, and it still thinks its full.... so im gonna cut the wires and live with it..... sigh

 

and now I cant figure out hwo to remove the resivour from the mc... i took the bolt out andf some mild muscle doesnt help....its loose, but i dont want to break anything... so do i just apply more muscle?

 

No.
Not muscle.
IMPACT

Using a Ratchet Handle you use for such purposes.
Get on the fastener with a 6-Point Socket.
Apply a generous amount of undo torque on the Ratchet.
STRIKE the end of the Ratchet Handle with a blow from a Hard Wood Hammer Handle.

No gots?
Get!

 

hold on rick... are we on the same page?

i got it out by twisting after finally finding a diagram and realized its basically a nipple in a big rubber type cork, so i twisted a little bit and it popped out... i'm not really sure how hitting it would help alot.

however the rubber stopper was caught in there, so i used some cooking wire and tooth pics to go aroundt he edges and get all the "glue" broke loose then did careful prying while spinning it and she came out...

it was a mess.

 

sounds like a pita.
glad i dont have one and just as
glad to read this post for future ref,lol

 

Nope.

We're not on the same page.
We're not even in the same library.

But, I am happy to say that your spelling has shown some improvement, recently.

 

Be careful. Last I saw (and that was 10 years ago), that grommet that secures the reservoir to the M/C was pure unobtanium. It's also NOT included in the rebuild kit. I ended up reinforcing mine with the most everything-resitant silicone I could find and reusing it... happily it's given me no problems.

 

Thats why i was so careful with it, I had heard it was hard/impossible to get.

Everythign cleaned up really well and went together PRETTY smooth, there is still something bugging me, there is a gap of approximately 1mm between the resivour and the MC, its not really snug, I'm not really sure what should be done about it, i was thinking of some silicone and a hose clam to keep it pressed down, though when I think of it, the plasice resivour has a bulb at the end which SHOULD keep fluid from coming out, it isnt pressurized in that part.

however, i had talked to zookie previously, seems the ltz 400 is a direct bolt on and works great, and retails for about 35 bucks on flea bay, though I hope i dont have to go that route

 

I just looked up the LTZ 400 master cylinder. Looks like a regular, on the handlebars, MC. Why would that be considered a direct bolt on? Did they have remote master cylinders in other model years?

 

No and no. It is not a direct bolt-on; no other models had the remote front master cylinder. However you can replace the OEM front master cylinder with a conventional handlebar-mounted one and either connect it to the OEM junction bar or run new hoses directly to the calipers (lots of threads here to show that). Not sure the LTZ 400 would be best as you would need a MC with enough volume for dual disks. Others have said the FZ1 (and I suppose FZ6) MCs work real well because the bolt is on the front of the MC versus the side. You would need to either grind down the OEM brake handle perch or replace the right-side controls too.

 

schooter, sound like you're feeling the pain i expect to feel soon,i will be rebuildind the m/c on my 83 750rk soon and was wondering if you filled your reservoir yet? did you have to remove the lid each time (PITA) to add fluid while purging air or can you fill it via the round peice that sticks out with the allen bolt in it? i'm not quite ready to tear into yet just wondering what i'm in for, any tips?

 

I rebuilt one this past summer. Not too bad. Mine was a clump a rust though. Cleaned it up, got a kit from Chacal, installed it no problems.
If I remember correctly, the washer/oring for the level sensor was not included in the kit and was purchased separately. A bit pricey, but I wanted to keep it stock.

 

no, I had to go back to college, so the system is sitting in pieces... I'm not really sure what my next plan of attakc is, to bleed the system and see if everyhting works then get SS lines and do it all again? or get ss lines right away and do it up.

the ltz, sorry, will not directly bolt on, it will be a handle bar mc, though it can run a line to the "splitter" by the Yamaha emblem then do to the two discs

also, the ltz400 WILL have enough stopping power, quads have 2 wheels in the front, hence two disc brakes..