Now what?

I have a 1982 xj650 and I am running it with four air pods. I know this isn't recommended but I didn't have a choice in the matter.

I am having the same problems as everybody else that are using the air pods, and that is hard starting.

I checked my main jets and they were 110 so I increased them to 112 and now my bike seems to run much better with one exception. Now I have a 2500 rpm idle. I have backed my idle screw all the way out and still have a high idle.
I have turned in my air/fuel mixture to about one turn out and it didn't change the high idle.

Does anybody have any suggestion on what I should do next?

I really cannot go back to the stock air box because of some modification I did to the bike.

Any idea what I should do about this high idle???

 

Put some slack in the Throttle Cable at the Adjuster.

2500 isn't Idling. That's of-idle. The Throttles are open.
Or, ...
You got Air leaks.
Anyway, ... you got those Throttles open even if the Idle Adjuster is all the way out.

Pull the rack and BENCH SYNC the four Throttle Plates using 1/4-Inch wide strips of 3X5 Card.
That will Sync them "Mechanically", ... just-about closed.

 

Amen on the benchs sync.

 

not a genius but i beleive they make or something can be usd rather to tell if you have an air leak



just cannot remember what the stuff is called you aply it out side of where you think the leak is and its carb safe and so you start motor and if you have a leak then it wont be there no more cause it will gt sucked in but it burns clean and does not cause any problems
someone here should know what i am talking about

 

To check for intake leaks use an UNLIT propane torch. Pass the UNLIT torch with the torch valve open over areas where you think there might be a leak. Typically the boot to head areas, the boots themselves, etc. Anywhere on the head side of the carbs.

If you find the area that is leaking the propane will cause the engine to speed up.

MAKE SURE THE TORCH VALVE IS ON BUT NO FLAME

 

If you don't have propane,some others have used WD-40,
plus it is less flamable.

 

Scabby- - have you done a running sync?
That could straighten you out.

 

I have already bench sync the carbs prior to changing the main jets but I will take them back off and recheck.

Is there anyway to adjust the needle valve, like putting a washer under it to lift it? How would I lower it?

One more thing, when I was changing out the main jets I noticed the part that the needle valve goes into and where you screw in the jet was loose and the brass washer under the main jet was still on the loose side.
Could that be the problem?

 

Is the 2500rpm because it stalls when you lower the idle, or you just can't get it to run at less than 2500rpm?

Possibly richen the idle jets.

 

I have unscrewed the idle screw all the way out.
By increasing my main jet should I also increase the idle jet?

 

The main jet change has absolutely no effect on your idle.
By unscrewing the idle jets all the way out having little or no effect says (loudly) there are still blocked passages.
Even a careful bench sync will give you very un-sync'ed carbs.

 

I feel like a real idiot.
I found out what my problem was, I had the cable to the fuel enrichment to tight and they were not shutting down completely.

 

Join the ranks of the initiated Scabby. I think just about everyone here has had that happen to them at one time or another (myself included, slap forehead, utter DOH).

 

Agreed

 

Look at the bright side! Now you know that part of your bike intimately.

 

I could but it would be a lot of work.
When I got the bike it didn't have any side panals or the rubber boots between the air box and the carbs.
I couldn't find any used side panals so I made some out of aluminum using aircraft fasteners. I had to cut the original panal attachments off of the bike so I could install the new fasteners.
Because of these new panals I had to suck everything within the frame in closer to the middle of the bike because the new panals set farther into the frame.
To do all of this I had to create some room in the frame and since I didn't have the rubber boots for the air box and because I didn't know anything about these bikes I cut up the air box to get it out of the frame.
Hope I didn't loose you in this long winded story.

 

Here's what I'd do; if I was you.

I'd find a Hot-Rod guy who can fabricate.
I buy a set of Velocity Stacks.

I'd mount the Velocity Stacks on the Carbs and see what kind of room is left for "Some-kind-of" PLENUM that you could "Make-up" that would be attached to the Velocity Stacks.

Once you have a Plenum that will allow you to have all four Carbs be dependent upon the Air allowed to enter only ONE or TWO Ports open to atmosphere!

Place Pod Filters at (those) or (that) opening(s) to atmosphere and see what the Controlled Intake Air Supply offers toward finding a solution to the UNREGULATED Intake Air Supply problem individual Air Cleaner Pod Filters cause to Engine Tuning.

http://www.tobefast.com/graves-motorspo ... r-167.html

 

That is a great idea. Have you built something like this before and did it work? Instead of using $89 stacks why not use a rubber connector for connecting pipe together? I read some where in this forum that some guy discovered that they work great.
This may be a stupid question but why couldn't you restrict the air flow on each air pod?
I thought about dipping each pod into some of that rubber coating that they use on the handles of tools. I believe they call it "Dip it".
Cover each pod about half way up. It sure would cut the air flow.

But I like your idea and I am going to look into building me one.

 

You don't need to use a $89.00 Velocity Stack, ... but something has to be on the Carb to shape the Incoming Supply of Air.

We have already discussed limiting the Flo at each Pod. I thought an insert of perforated material would do the trick. But, the individual restriction doesn't answer the elimination of Turbulence.

Having Stacks and a Plenum to adjust is a step in a positive direction.
Good luck making something.
I hope it works.

 

What would be the point of converting to PODs, then restricting the air flow. I thought the purpose of switching to PODs was to create a less restrictive air flow. If you are going to restrict the flow of the PODs, you would be better off to put the original air cleaner on it. I was looking at putting the PODs on my Seca, but after all the posts, I decided to keep the original box, and switch over to a K&N filter. Better air flow, less carb issues.

If you don't like the looks of the air box, modify the tin covers. I think it would look cool if you maybe put a couple louvers on them, and chrome plate it. I saw some custom stainless covers with slots cut in them that looked nice too.

 

Somewhere in the Posts he tells us that he destroyed the OEM Air Box and filter space with other Mods.

I agree that taking it back to stock would present the Best option; but I don't think that option is available without undoing a good deal of mods.