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Cosmetic help for crankcase cover

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by chazmati, Jun 4, 2009.

  1. chazmati

    chazmati Member

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    Any tips for cleaning up the crankcase cover? The finish looks half worn off, was this originally painted or coated somehow? How have people made these parts look 'nice' again? Do I have to strip the rest of whatever is hanging on and start over?

    See attached, or view my bike in the gallery here.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. jgb1503

    jgb1503 Member

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    They were originally clear coated. Thats what you see coming off of them. The best way (and easiest) it to take the covers off (might need to drain oil and/or replace gaskets) and paint on some 'Aircraft Paint Stripper'.. let it sit for a little bit.. it will take all that old crap right off of it...

    Then, depending on scratches and whatnot - some high count wet sanding and/or polishing with a polishing wheel. Then maintaining it is easy with Mothers Chrome polish/wax.

    Search the forums, many (many!) discussions with a lot more specific details on how, who, why, when, where, and what to do when you break something, lol

    Good luck!
     
  3. JoeFriday77

    JoeFriday77 Member

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    I've had some really good luck using #5 rouge from Lowes and a buffing wheel. I've got a lot of my aluminum polished to a level where it looks chrome.

    Pulling the cover would be the easiest, but if you want to give it a go without doing that, put a 4" buffing wheel on the end of a drill, remove your shift lever, and give it a go. If you haven't used rouge before, just get the wheel spinning and put the stick against the wheel until you get a good coating of rouge on the wheel. Then, start buffing.

    It takes some time, but the results are outstanding.
     
  4. kcoop99

    kcoop99 Member

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  5. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    I use a variety of Rouges ... especially No.5.

    After doing some work with the Buffing Wheel, ... you have to "Clear-it" ... and apply some more Rouge.

    I "Clear" the Buffing Wheel with a Salad Fork that I modified.

    Stick the Handle in a length of Vinyl Hose.
    Heat the Hose, ... like Heat Shrink.
    Grab it tight with a work glove on.
    Keep the Tangs sharpened-up at the grinder.

    When you grind-down the Tangs and its time for a new fork ...
    Take your wife out to dinner!!!
     
  6. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    We all use pretty much the same process;

    The first step is to get the old clearcoat off, "aircraft" paint stripper works quite well; I also use spray-on gasket remover for the stuff that just won't let go.

    Then pre-buffing sanding/polishing; depending on the degree of corrosion or discoloration you may need to start off sanding with 800 grit (or even 400 if there are gouges to be removed) wet sandpaper then work up to around 1500 or 2000-grit; then begin buffing and polishing, as described above.

    In a lot of cases, once the old clearcoat is off, you can start with 1200 wet or 1500 wet if there isn't a lot of deep discoloration.

    I do my very final polishing by HAND it gives it a "warmer" shine.

    For pieces that aren't going to be polished, but you want to get rid of the corrosion, take a look at the process used here: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=22125.html prior to painting.
    A quick swipe with a wad of Nevr-Dull and an old towel once it's been boiled clean will keep it nice without a highly-polished finish.
     
  7. NJRIDER1

    NJRIDER1 Member

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    i'm not sure what "aircraft" paint stripper is. i've had great success using aerosol paint stripper from pepboys to remove the film that is applied at the factory, it works on spoke wheels too. then light sanding w/ 800 - 1200 grit wet/dry paper, then buffing on a bench grinder or dremel w/ rouge, then hand polish w/ mothers. it's alot of work but the final result is worthwhile, good luck
     

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