1. Some members were not receiving emails sent from XJbikes.com. For example: "Forgot your password?" function to reset your password would not send email to some members. I believe this has been resolved now. Please use "Contact Us" form (see page footer link) if you still have email issues. SnoSheriff

    Hello Guest. You have limited privileges and you can't "SEARCH" the forums. Please "Log In" or "Sign Up" for additional functionality. Click HERE to proceed.

Winter Break Tuneup Project

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by ThatNaysayer, Dec 19, 2009.

  1. ThatNaysayer

    ThatNaysayer New Member

    Messages:
    23
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1
    Location:
    Chicago
    So I am about to start my winter break and am thinking I will take some of my time off to try and give my engine a nice once over and I was wondering what I could work on without spending too much money. After reading around a bit I have a small list of things to check that seem to be mentioned often. Here is the list I have so far:

    Valve Clearances
    Cam Chain Tension
    Bench Sync/Sync Carbs
    Replace Jets (noticed some were striped when I cleaned the carbs)
    Reseal Tank / Install Inline Filter

    Anything else I should look at? I am trying to keep my spending down, my goal is less than 100 bucks (if at all possible).
     
  2. wizard

    wizard Active Member

    Messages:
    5,282
    Likes Received:
    26
    Trophy Points:
    38
    Location:
    DEVON ENGLAND
    You could knock a hole in $100 if you have to change all the shims, but still a must do, if you havn't checked for 5k.
    Cam chain tension cost nada (have you got some noise?)
    Clean the tank & new in-line filter, good results for little bucks.
     
  3. seaguy

    seaguy Member

    Messages:
    388
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Coastal,AL
    clean and lube the chain if it has one? Lube the cables? Flush and refresh the hydralics?
     
  4. ThatNaysayer

    ThatNaysayer New Member

    Messages:
    23
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1
    Location:
    Chicago
    Hydraulics! I knew I forgot something! I already cleaned/lubed the chain, but I never lubed the cables. Which cables need to be lubed? Speed/Tach?

    I get some clicking (I think, but I haven't ridden it since the start of the semester in September so my memory is a bit fuzzy) when I idle, but only for the first mile or so. I figure I should be on the safe side and go ahead and make sure all is well and adjusted if I am going to open her up.
     
  5. seaguy

    seaguy Member

    Messages:
    388
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Coastal,AL
    All of them unless you have some special type sleeves that need silicon lube of some type or maybe graphite. Does your rear brake switch use a short cable?
     
  6. ThatNaysayer

    ThatNaysayer New Member

    Messages:
    23
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1
    Location:
    Chicago
    Not sure about the break switch, I will take a look once I am back home. Also, when you say all of them, do you mean literally every cable? Electrical and all that jazz?

    I am a bit (read:very much) new to motorcycles/maintenance so that may or may not be a stupid question.
     
  7. TIMEtoRIDE

    TIMEtoRIDE Active Member

    Messages:
    4,686
    Likes Received:
    11
    Trophy Points:
    38
    Location:
    Clermont FL near Orlando
    Pull the rear wheel and check for brake pad delamination, if you haven't.
    There is no need to bench sync a running bike. However, if you have a coated tank that needs re-coating, and you are not running a filter, your carb bowls are dirty, and enrichment circuits may be plugged.
    You may need to go thru the carbs anyway.
     
  8. ThatNaysayer

    ThatNaysayer New Member

    Messages:
    23
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1
    Location:
    Chicago
    I still need to check for delamination, I should have done that after buying the bike but only recently read the thread about it that is often referenced. As for carbs, when I got the bike it would not idle so I took them off and gave them a through cleaning and bench synced them, then I tried to sync them on the bike with the yard-stick manometer but failed, I am thinking I will bench sync again and maybe try one of the other diy sync methods. I am also thinking of getting a colortune kit from Chacal, is it worth the investment?
     
  9. Hillsy

    Hillsy Member

    Messages:
    634
    Likes Received:
    12
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Australia
    How did you try it? If you're using the single pipe 2 at a time manometer it's pretty easy - synch 1 and 2, then 3 and 4, then 2 and 3....done.
     
  10. ThatNaysayer

    ThatNaysayer New Member

    Messages:
    23
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1
    Location:
    Chicago
    Yeah, it was the single pipe two carb method. No matter what I did I could not get carbs 1 & 2 even close. I made the line restricting parts as recommended by another forum member, still didn't work. It would always go to one carb or the other. I am thinking the two bottle method may work better since there is less of a problem with fluid getting sucked in to the carbs.
     
  11. Hillsy

    Hillsy Member

    Messages:
    634
    Likes Received:
    12
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Australia
    The adjustment screw between the carbs is quite sensitive - you need a steady hand to get it right.

    My manometer is the single tube one - I have about 12 feet of tube which is looped and cable tied onto a 3 foot length of alloy strip. I don't have any markings on it - you only need to get them at the same level to be balanced. I'm using fork oil in mine (15w I think). About 10 inches of oil. 12 feet gives enough tube to allow me to "catch" it before it shoots up a carb.
     
  12. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    13,843
    Likes Received:
    66
    Trophy Points:
    48
    Location:
    Massachusetts, Billerica
    When you have difficulty Syncing the Carbs because one Carb is NOT responding ... THAT usually indicates that you have an AIR Leak "Breaking the Vacuum" and NOT making the measuring device respond to Throttle Plate movement.

    This is a dilemma.
    The leak is likely to be where the Intake Manifold mates to the Head.
    Replacing the Gasket, ... more importantly ... the Manifold's O-ring ... means having to remove Cap Screw fasteners which are VERY HIGHLY LIKELY to be seized.

    One false move and you go from Syncing the Carbs to Removing the Head to have a broken-off fastener attended too.

    Rather than risk breaking-off a Manifold Cap Screw; remove the Carbs and use a Silicone-based Sealant and surround the BACK of the Manifold with Sealant that you ... "Tuck-in"

    "Wipe" and "Force-in" Sealant to make the Manifold - to - Head mating completely AIR TIGHT.

    (Fabricate a Special Tool. 15cm of Brazing Rod. Peen the end flat. Cut the Peened flat end Square. Bend the flattened and squared end over to a 6mm long obtuse angle. Use this surface to grab a dab of Sealant and spread it on to and into the Joint)
     
  13. ThatNaysayer

    ThatNaysayer New Member

    Messages:
    23
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1
    Location:
    Chicago
    I should probably have been more specific, the oil in the tube was responding to adjustments made on both carbs - at least I think it was - I just couldn't get the oil to "balance".

    Ok, so I am not exactly well versed in engine terminology, because this sounds to me like replacing the intake manifolds/gaskets (which I did when removing my carbs) though I am not sure what/where the Cap Screw Fasteners are so I may be totally off.
     
  14. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

    Messages:
    21,283
    Likes Received:
    418
    Trophy Points:
    83
    Location:
    Rural SE Michigan 60 miles N of Motown
    No, you're fine. If you already replaced the intake manifolds (between the carbs and the head) and their gaskets, you did good. The bolts Rick is referring to are the ones that hold said manifolds to the head; they're quite susceptible to breakage especially on the 650/750, not so much the 550s because of how the head is cast.

    Difficulty balancing could very well be due to the issue Rick is describing, but in your case I doubt it.

    Q1: Did you use a YICS block-off tool?

    Q2: Have you fixed the stripped jets yet? If not, don't bother trying to do a running vac sync.

    The cables that would require lubricating on your bike would be the clutch, choke and throttle cables. DO NOT USE WD40. Use a good quality spray lube (I prefer Tri-Flow) or motorcycle-specific cable lube.

    Rear brake MUST BE CHECKED before you ride the bike; the delamination issue is very common and quite dangerous.

    With that few miles, the sprockets should be fine; be sure to clean/lube/adjust the drive chain. If it keeps "bleeding red" when lubed and won't hold adjustment, it's rusted internally and needs to be replaced before it eats your sprockets or breaks and tears up the motor.
     
  15. ThatNaysayer

    ThatNaysayer New Member

    Messages:
    23
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1
    Location:
    Chicago
    A1: That I did, however I am not sure if it worked since it tool ended up getting stuck in the YICS passage and required some work to get back out.

    A2: They are next on the list of things to be fixed, I am planning on ordering the parts fro Chacal in the next few days.

    Thanks for clarifying which cables to lubricate. As far as the rear break is concerned, if there is delamination what parts of the break assembly would need to be replaced?
     
  16. Hillsy

    Hillsy Member

    Messages:
    634
    Likes Received:
    12
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Australia
    The brake shoes.
     
  17. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

    Messages:
    21,283
    Likes Received:
    418
    Trophy Points:
    83
    Location:
    Rural SE Michigan 60 miles N of Motown
  18. ThatNaysayer

    ThatNaysayer New Member

    Messages:
    23
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1
    Location:
    Chicago
    Thanks for the link, makes much more sense now. Just got all my parts from Chacal the other day, currently in the process of replacing the jets in the carbs. Any tips on getting a stripped pilot fuel jet (I think that's what it is, it's the one in the long and small tube right below the main jet) out? Whoever originally "cleaned" the carbs stripped almost all of them.

    I may take some pictures of the jets tomorrow and post them.

    I also just installed the clubman handlebars I bought, and quite like how the look but I am not sure how comfortable they will be when riding. The only problem I have is that they are very close to the two front turn signals, which I think I may replace with some signals I have from my previous failed project.
     
  19. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

    Messages:
    21,283
    Likes Received:
    418
    Trophy Points:
    83
    Location:
    Rural SE Michigan 60 miles N of Motown
    Luckily, bike master bars are only around $20 a set...

    TIP: Sit on your bike, and get comfy. Reach up and grab a couple "handfuls of air" where you'd feel the most comfortable at 60mph.

    Then, using your stock bar as a comparison, figure out what new bend will put your hands/arms where you want them. I'm kinda tall, so I ended up with "European" on my 550 Secas and they now fit ME perfectly. A shorter rider might want a taller bar.

    You also might just flip the clubmans 'up' you'll get the same arm/wrist angle without them being so low.
     
  20. ThatNaysayer

    ThatNaysayer New Member

    Messages:
    23
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1
    Location:
    Chicago
    I am thinking about flipping them, but at the very least I need to ride the bike once with the clubmans on it how they are now to get a feeling for them. As for the pilot jets, I managed to get them all out with the help of an easy-out. Put all the new jets in, going to give the carbs a quick once over then put-em back on the bike.

    Here is what one of the stripped jets looked like, most of them where like this if not worse.
    [​IMG]

    Next up, checking the valve-shim clearances. Anything I need to keep in mind while checking them, or any tips for making the process a bit easier?
     
  21. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

    Messages:
    21,283
    Likes Received:
    418
    Trophy Points:
    83
    Location:
    Rural SE Michigan 60 miles N of Motown
    ummm... a lot of work went into this, ya know... http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=14827.html

    Two additional "tips" if you'd like:

    In the photos I was using an Imperial ("American") feeler gauge with metric equivalents but it really is a LOT easier to use a pure metric feeler set. KD #2274 is the only one I'm aware of that's commonly available and they are (commonly available.) Saves a lot of aggravating math, especially when you have to stack blades.

    Lighting, LIGHTING, lighting. And more lighting. Like a surgical arena is what my daughter calls my garage.

    Plus be sure to get new donuts with your new gasket and then you can re-use the whole set for quite a while. I've had the cover off and on my '81 at least twice since I got all new stuff and it never even seeps.

    Take your time, relax, put the radio on in the background and be meticulous. It's actually enjoyable if you just go slow.
     
  22. ThatNaysayer

    ThatNaysayer New Member

    Messages:
    23
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1
    Location:
    Chicago
    Hehe, your valve shim how-to was one of the first things I found here and one of the reasons I thought I would join the site when I got my bike. Already printed and in a folder along with a few other user's how-to's. I pretty much owe the fact that my bike is running to the XJBikes forums. :)

    I can't remember which feeler gauge I bought, but I think it is the Imperial one that Chacal sells, though I vaguely remember getting the metric, I'll have to check tomorrow. As for lighting, I have a few construction lights that I will set up, as well as doing this during the day, hopefully I wont have to replace too many of the shims I am starting to run low on my tune-up money.

    Also, I have a new valve cover gasket, but I am not sure what the donuts are. Are they the rubber pieces between the bolts and the valve cover?

    Edit - Just re-read your how-to and saw the bit about the donuts, makes sense now, I'll throw them on my list of things to buy along with the valve shims that may or may not need to be replaced.
     
  23. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

    Messages:
    21,283
    Likes Received:
    418
    Trophy Points:
    83
    Location:
    Rural SE Michigan 60 miles N of Motown
    It's a two-step process unless you're abolutely rolling in cash---

    You have no way of knowing which shims may need to be replaced nor what size you need until you tear it down and measure them.

    So you tear it down, measure and record; THEN order the shims you need.

    If you go ahead and "read" (remove and record the size) of ALL your shims the first time it makes the job simpler the next time.

    (Another reason a log book is a good idea.)
     
  24. parts

    parts Member

    Messages:
    834
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    16
    Location:
    prescott valley az
    Well, it sounds like your plate is pretty full but,...
    you might drop the swing arm and check/pack the bearings.
    Same with the wheel, steeringhead bearings.
    How long since you changed the hypiod oil in the drive shaft?
    I've noticed a lot of threads are spent focused on the motor with very little
    on Preventing probs with the rest of the bike, then having to post
    "how come this is happening" threads.
    If you have even more time to use up,go through and clean all elec connections adding di-electric grease.
    Take a multi-meter and check for any "voltage drops" or high resistance in the circuits.
    I sometimes envy you guys that get to put the bike down and have time to do these things.....
    At least untill I've grabbed a hand full of throttle lol.
     
  25. ThatNaysayer

    ThatNaysayer New Member

    Messages:
    23
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1
    Location:
    Chicago
    Never, its chain driven :)

    Those are part of my next project, probably for spring break, if I had more time I probably would take care of packing the bearings now. Sadly I have about a week of break left.
     
  26. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

    Messages:
    21,283
    Likes Received:
    418
    Trophy Points:
    83
    Location:
    Rural SE Michigan 60 miles N of Motown
    Don't bother to drop the swingarm to repack any bearings.

    The stock swingarm on the 550 rides on nylon bushings.

    If you want bearings to repack, you have to spend just over $100 for the upgrade kit to install real bearings in the swingarm. (chacal carries the kit.) My personal philosophy is to wait until I have to pull it apart because the bushings wore out then do the upgrade.
     

Share This Page