Another 900

will you be able to trust the side stand ?

 

It's all trustworthy, now, P. & I love a kick stand, it's a James Dean thing. 8)

 

You do some great looking work Wizard. 8)

 

Frame prepped for painting, I removed 4 brackets from the frame for a cleaner look. (think they were for a full fairing, but not sure)

 

Frame finished.

 

Thanks for the pictures wizard. It's amazing what you do.

 

One does one's best, Crow.

 

I don't know anything about the 900's, but any chance the holes in the frame could have been "drain" holes? I found a hole in the same spots (my red one was all bulged out) and got them welded, but I keep seeing posts about drain holes.

 

They could well be drain holes, but where does the water get in?

 

Tail fairing repaired, had to form 2 new F/G brackets, how many of you 900 owners have lost these lugs?

 

The inside of the Shoei fairing is painted black, would this be the color of choice?.

 

Tail fairing finished.

 

you're painting the two the same?

 

Wizard:
I have a tail piece with one lug missing. Is it true they are ABS and you can use regular plumbers glue to repair them? What is your method?

 

Interchangeable body parts. 8)

 

These were completely gone, as they were on the last bike.
Last time I used 2 metal brackets & held them in place with fibreglass, this time I made 'formwork' from cardboard & gaffer tape, then put in fibreglass matt & filled the 'mould' with resin, both methods worked well, I would say the metal brackets were easier.

 

Interchangable tags maybe ??

 

No flys on Time. :wink:

 

The object of this post is to see if we can take a ally case from fright to bright without going through 5 or 6 grades of wet & dry sanding.
Making a buffing wheel from Scotch Brite pads has been done before, but I am posting pictures of my method, as it might help some would be polishers.
I cut the discs with a 75mm tank cutter, with the drill in reverse.
Punch out the centre holes with a sharpened piece of 12mm copper pipe.
Slide the discs onto a 50mm x 12mm dia bolt, placing a washer between each disc, this allows you to tighten the nut & still retain some width to the pad.
Pic 5 shows the top part the casing buffed just with the Scotch Bright pad.
Pic 6 after the polishing wheel & a light spray polish.
So the answer is. YES WE CAN.

 

We can buy pre-cut Scotchbrite wheels here, in different grades. I prefer sanding to getting real medieval with the Scotchbrite on cases as it tends to leave scratches that take a bit of extra work to remove.

I like the tiny ones for my Dremel though, to clean up stained and mottled wheel rims and spokes.

Drop those screws in a glass of white vinegar for a few hours and see how they look.

 

This was just an exercise, Fitz, that mill will go off for soda blasting, soon & those screws will be dropped in the bin & replaced with S/S cap head screws.

 

A 75 MM tank cutter? You're gonna scare people.
How about scissors? I'm thinking a hexagon pattern would utilize more of the raw material that quickly wears away anyway- - more bang for the buck??

 

tank cutter=hole saw.

Wanna talk about box wrenches?

Thanks for clearing that up, Wiz. Ya had me worried. Like I said, the scratches Scotchbrite sometimes produces are "worn" in and require more work than otherwise necessary to remove. Not an issue on wheel spokes in particular, where the machining marks are still quite obvious.

 

I use the very same technique for Cleaning the Bores on the Carbs.

My "Cookie-cutter" for discs is a 19mm Socket that I grinded to a Razors Edge at the Gringing Wheel and with a Dremel Tool to sharpen the Inside Diameter.

The Standard Dremel Sanding Bit will accept 7-Discs.

To keep the Discs from Free-wheeling ... I use Flat washers and External Star Locking Washers against both ends.

Once the Discs are compressed on the Bit, ... I use Barber Scissors to give the Buffing Tool a trim before attacking the Carb Bores.

ScotchBrite (Gray) Medium on a Dremel is a GREAT Tool to use to Clean-up just about anything.

 

Panels painted.

 

very nice, I like the black paint on the plastics, really makes it look nice

 

Thanks Schooter, did you see how the tank finished up, the one I cut open? link

 

You get my email Wiz... Need a reply soon as post shop closes in an hour

 

Done & done, Alive.

 

On their way

 

oh snap, looks like new, congrats wiz, you've got a bike that will turn heads, and is a great piece of history.


now lesse about bribing cycle world about your bike... I wrote them a half-@$$ letter, though ima put some work into it

 

Very nice !!!! I want it

 

This bike came with new tyres, so to brighten up the wheels, a light wire brush on the rims & spokes, to remove the oxide, then to take the dusty, dull look off the black, a little black boot polish on a toothbrush.

 

A mini-buffing wheel in your Dremel can have the rims looking like chrome if you want...

 

Mill & frame are reunited using the recumbent method.

 

Aligning the 4 points of the tripple trees with a plate glass mirror.

 

Progress picture.....
Loom checked out & fitted, I have decided to keep the high power headlight, with the 2 relays.........

 

Fuse box upgrade.

 

Start of another rack..

 

Carbs looked quite clean & all was looking good, untill I saw someone had fixed a broken body with bubble gum, good quality, though, not the regular juicy fruit. :cry:

 

Now that my friends is a bad day right there.

 

looks like the last guy had a impact driver

 

He had an impact driver in his hand, but nothing between the ears.

 

I had to remove the spring from the idle rod to get enough adjustment to bench sync', has anyone had this issue?

 

Sounds like something not right with the individual adjuster screw/spring stackups; maybe have to back those three off to have more adjustment below? Or crank all three of 'em in a ways?

 

maybe you have the wrong bracket or screw or judging from the last picture the PO just beat the hell out of it

 

I took the spring off to get them in sync' then put the spring back on & there is enough adjustment to shut the butterflys down & open them just enough. I know they only need to be open a hair for 1050 rpm.
They are on the bike now, all float levels sweat as, I daren't say this project is going well. )

 

Last of the panels in primer...........

 

Drooling AGAIN!!!!

 

This is the first faring I have painted & I must say the masking up is a nightmare, I painted the inside with plastic bumper & trim paint, as well...