NEED HELP. Riding maxim over 3000 miles leaving Friday

Hi. I am buying my first 1982 xj750 maxim in an hour. Then I plan to ride it on friday morning to school in Las Vegas. I am going to do several oil changes, a spark plug change and a gear oil change. What weight gear oil does it take? What is the gap needed on the spark plug? The speedometer cable is broken...I cant seem to find it on this website http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorc ... 0j/o/m8222. Where can I buy one? Help would be much appreciated. My car was vandalized visiting my brother at xmas. I have been stuck at home, that is why things have been so last minute.

 

hello, if you're going to a technical school heres a few things you should do

If you only have these 2 days and cant get parts by Friday

Change oil 20w 50, 20w 40, or shell rotella <--ive enver used before, other have with good results

Gear oil you're typical 80w-90 or, on the xs11 site, they SWEAR synthetic makes a difference that you can feel

new plugs, I dont know the gap...

if you're going on a 3k mile trip, i would also check wheel bearings, neck bearings,

hmm invest in some saddle bads and a 1 gallon or 2 gas can, you're going to want it

mestni <--could have 2 i's is the real guy to talk to he went from ohio to cali he could tell you, he did have lots of carb troubles though, and it doesnt sound like you have alot of time to diagnose those problems, so i hope for you're sake the bike runs good

if the bike runs great, dont do anything to the carb.... just incase you mess something up pulling them off or on or taking apart

hmm check the intake boots for cracks, with a brith light and push on them.. dont want you're motor blowing on the ride there, if there's cracks, spray osme liquid electrical tape in it, call it good, you can check the seals by turning the bike on and putting an unlit propane torch by the boots and listen for the bike to rev.

inflate you're tires and hit the open road..

btw, im not sure if you're going to be driving in the cold, but it takes about 10 minutes for these bikes to warm up on a cold morning.

also, you're probably going to be disappointed in the range of these bike's tanks, just try and plan to fuel up every 100 miles.


Now, if you can get parts, get that speedo fixed, check your valve clearences.

you can order parts FAST and cheap from a member here, chacel, he literally has every part needed to build a new bike from the ground up. look him up, he's got his own threads here

 

Chacal is his name- - Great parts and service is his game.
To check your speed, downshift into 4 th gear. 6,000 is 60 (close enough)
You should look at the rear brake shoes for delamination (fatal??)
Fresh oil never hurt, do not buy "energy conserving" oil. Buy Rotella !!
Plan on buying a SERVICE manual, and preforming ALL service, and don't beat on the bike until you get thru all of this.
There's lots of friendly people here to help you, welcome to XJ Bikes !!!

 

Wish I could offer some advice, but im new at this whole thing. I'm planning on a similar trip this summer. Let us know what happens and any problems you run into. Good luck!

 

I rode from Fargo, ND to Bear Tooth, MT through Yellowstone and back to Fargo. Ended up being about 2200 miles. You will definitely want a manual. There are a lot of shops that don't work on older bikes. I didn't change ANYTHING on my carbs before I went and I did really well. It ran lean in anything over 5500 feet but I just took my plugs out and cleaned them really well. Extra set of plugs is a must on these long trips. I agree with Schooter, check those wheel bearings and brake pads. Make sure you have someone you can call if something happens. And last but not least...HOLD ON TIGHT AND SWERVE AROUND ROADKILL!! Good luck.

 

Find a dealer on your route and order the speedo cable ahead of time. Go to the dealer and get NGK plugs that are already gapped, I do. Schooter is right on with the 80/90 gear oil. Motor oil should be 20w50, I get the honda brand at the local dealer because I'm told by many there is a difference between bike and car oil. I don't know the gearing differences, but on my 650 Maxim 7000 rpm is 90 mph in 5 gear. Good luck on your trip. Also, you my want to check the maps and see if there are any members on the way willing to give you a hand. You might be surprised. Don't forget to check back after you get where your going and take lots of pics to post.

 

You've already got good info. Just wanted to say WELCOME to the forums and GOOD LUCK...

skillet

 

Welcome aboard and you won't want to hear this but I wouldn't do it.

You have no knowledge of this bike and NO WAY can you go through it and make it SAFE for a 100 mile trip let alone a 3000 mile trip in the time you have.

Three thousand miles is only 2K short of a valve adjustment interval, if they've never been touched you will kill your motor (or at least burn a valve.)

When was the last time the brake fluid was REPLACED?

How OLD are the tires? (Check the date codes.)

You HAVE TO check the rear brake shoes for delamination, a very common failure and potentially fatal as TIME mentioned.

It took me 9 months to get my '81 XJ SAFE and road-ready and the PO had been riding it!!! (He was lucky he wasn't killed.)

This is a 27-year old bike. You can't just jump on it and ride it across the country, sorry to say. It will bite you.

Don't mean to pee in your cornflakes, it's simply the truth. Don't go and get killed trying to do something foolish because it sounds cool. It's a MOTORCYCLE not a jalopy of a car. DANGER Will Robinson, danger!

 

Do a "Two-hour" Pre-flight.

Top-up the Battery with Distilled Water.
Put the Battery on Charge.
Inspect the Alternator Brushes -- 10 mins.
Adjust the Clutch
Position Shifter and Brake Lever to YOUR foot.
Oil Can festival.
Eyeball Clutch Cable condition at Lever Bullet
Change Oil and Filter
Eyeball Front Brake Pads ... Inspect for Wear Limit
Change Headlight Bulb for Sylvania SilverStar Bike Bulb
Make Tool to Adjust Rear Shock Preload
Spare Plugs
Speedo Cable from local BoneYard
Bike Cop Reflective Gear for Night Riding
Fairing or Windscreen for Long-haul comfort.

 

The first and foremost thing that HAS to be checked is the rear brake.

If this bike sat and the rear shoes are delaminated, his trip could be over 5 miles from home.

I'm not being anal or overly thorough, it's a REAL SAFETY ISSUE. We've had at least three members who experienced rear wheel lockup while riding; thankfully nobody was hurt.

GOTTA DO IT or you can wreck. Period. Looky: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=15874.html Start at page 6 and go back; you'll find lots o' pics and stories from members who HAD IT HAPPEN. If the shoes are starting to peel and you go for a 3000 mile ride you won't get there.

We won't discuss how much fun it is getting stopped from 60 with a blown front tire. (Ever do it? Its pretty frightening.) DATE CODES, they're not just a sales tool.

I'm not trying to be a stick in the mud, I just don't want to see anyone get hurt.

 

As everyone else said :
-check your brakes, both front and rear
-bring spare throttle and clutch cable
-your butt will hurt, bring advil or build your own bead rider.
-know how to diagnose basic carb problems
-check/adjust your valves
-bring water

I'm assuming this is your first bike. How long have you been riding before this?

I'm usually one to encourage people to do what they want, but let me tell you one thing: it took me over 3 solid months to go through and get thoroughly acquainted with my bike. There are times on my ride West that I would have been stranded had I not already learned how to handle certain issues.

All in all, if this is your first bike my advice is to go slow and make sure you (or your parents) have AAA to come rescue you if you get stranded. Oh, and bring a fuel can, there are several stretches of road where the gas stations are further than 100 miles apart. Not sure of the route you're taking.

 

Oh, ride hard and take pictures!

 

If u havent startd its a good idea to keep a tire repair kit handy for emergency use. GOOD LUCK n REACH SAFE. Welcome to XJ bikes

 

false alarm guys. sorry. the XJ was beautiful but the starter was shot. looks like I am taking my modded drz400. Just got the seat reupholstered so it should be good.

 

Too bad, but also good, and I have to agree with Bigfitz.
Taking a used bike that you only just bought on a long
trip is a hell of a gamble.
Some of us have taken more then a year or more to bring ours
back to prime running condition, and although it runs like
new or better 3k is a long ride and lots of thought has to
go into the planning. Like what tools and spare parts need to go
since weight and space are at a premium.
Plus if you don't know the bike inside out you have no foreknowledge
of what parts are on the edge of breaking down.
Good luck and still do all the above pre-trip recommendations on
the 400.These guys know what there talking about.

 

Out of the Frying Pan, ... and right into the fire!

I wouldn't ride a 400cc Dirt Bike over 200 miles for a shot at winning some prize money, ... even if I was the only contestant in the game.

I'd sell the Bike.
Buy a pair of good boots, ten sheets of orange poster boards, a Jumbo-wide Magic Marker and a High-power LED Flashlight with tripod legs and have a buddy drive me to the nearest Interstate Highway Rest Area ... and make my first sign.

HOLLYWOOD
Or Bust!
Have License
Will Drive.

(Turn-down all offers until a Babe sees your sign and says she's tired and in a hurry ... you drive.)

 

im in vegas, if you ever end up with an xj let me know. where do you go to school that you have to be back so urgently? i go to UNLV and we dont start until the 11th, and CSN doesnt start until a week later..

im assuming you're not in high school anymore.

 

The guys on this site will recall a Kawasaki 550 I rebuilt, ground up & I would book the bike to be 100% sound.
A young fella bought the bike on 'the bay', he lived 3000 km away & was going to come down & ride it home, I said are you outta ya mind.
That is not how it is done, with any bike, you ride it locally, you get to know it, the bike gets to know you, you build up to a long trip.
You will know when you & the bike are ready, it's a feel thing, some bikes I wouldn't hesitate to ride anywhere, others not so sure.
Take the greyhound. Wiz.

 

Great idea, had a buddy do the same thing with his BMW couple of years back. They hooked him up with the parts, tools and help.

I'll throw up a flag on this one, NEVER trust a plug right out of the box. ALWAYS check the gap. If you do not know what gap you are running, you are running wrong. XJ 750 runs NGK BP7ES 0.028 to 0.032" gap.

I'm always willing to lend a hand and/or parts as a few folks around here can attest.
Incidently, I'd still scoop the XJ and push start it.

 

Replacing your oil with the correct oil is not something to overlook either. If you are on a short trip and notice that your oil is low, motor oil for cars is sufficient. Your main concern on a short trip is that your oil level is good. The problem with using oil designed for cars is that it is not made to stand up to what bike oil does. Motorcycle oil not only lubricates and helps cool your engine, but it also lubricates and helps cool your transmission. So motorcycle oil is formulated to stand up to a lot more wear and tear.

Also, this is common sense but make sure that you find out the required amount of oil for your bike which would be listed in any owners manual or service manual. If you dont have either, ask on this site and you will get your answer lickity split. Make sure to also check your oil level a short time after your oil change. Since the oil has to filter down all the way through the engine and then to the transmission, you may not be able to get all of the oil in right away. Also, while running the bike to get the oil to distribute throughout the oil system, do not rev up the bike because the oil may not be distributed enough to protect all those vital moving parts from friction.

In summary:
1.) Try to only use motorcycle oil for your bike.
2.) Check your oil level frequently (while your bike is level)
3.) And have a safe trip if you havent already left.

 

I was going to suggest mestni too

 

hey man imm here at UNLV with my drz having a hell of a time. if you ride dirtbikes pm me ill give you my number

 

alright thanks for all the responses guys. I am still planning on buying that XJ. I think it needs a starter. When you press the start button it makes a spinning noise and nothing happens. it doesnt turn over at all. Battery fully charged. Something about that bike that I love. Is that starter a big job on this engine? its got 40k anything else likely to need work? almost no rust on the bike.

 

No starters are pretty easy actually two bolt and it pretty much slips right out. Rebuilding the start is a bit more complicated but nothing I would say it is really not all that hard. However, it may not actually be the starter, there are several posts on here that go over troubleshooting a bike that will not start.

 

If the starter motor turns OK then your immediate problem is not likely the starter itself but rather the mechanism used to transfer the starter motor motion to the crankshaft. This will require splitting the cases. You may still need to clean the starter motor, undercut it and/or replace the brushes.

 

Not necessarily -- many times the starter clutch is just gummed up and stuck - cleaning it and doing an oil flush once or twice can work magic. Does require bump-starting the bike if the starter won't catch at all, but can save you having to open the engine

 

alright how much should I offer the guy for the bike. he said he would go to 450. I checked the oil inside of it and the oil looks good. If I need to buy a new starter motor it is a couple hundred bucks. I can hear spinning when I push the button, I think the starter gear is messed up. is this common for this engine?

 

You already had the answer. To summarize:

If the starter SPINS but doesn't turn the motor, then there is a problem with the starter clutch. There are a NUMBER of "common problems" with the starter clutch, ranging from being gummed up and stuck, to worn engagement pins/rollers, to a broken or cracked housing.

If you're lucky, an "oil flush" or two will fix it.

If you're good, you can change the rollers and springs without splitting the cases; however if you drop a roller, or if it turns out the housing is cracked;

Then you will need to split the cases.

Do ya feel lucky?

 

One more thing: If the starter won't spin the motor, you can't do a compression test.

I wouldn't buy a non-running bike (or a running one for that matter) without a compression test. Unless you are prepared for it to become a parts bike.